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Author Arden GSi
Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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18th Jun 12 at 22:23   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Darryl H
Surely if it's overbored then new rings would wear and then cause blue smoke?

You wouldn't need a new bottom end, new oversized pistons and rings though

[Edited on 18-06-2012 by Darryl H]


i imagine it would work out much cheaper to get a new bottom end though?
Darryl H
Organiser: South Central
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Registered: 19th Nov 09
Location: Camberley Drives: Porsche 944
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18th Jun 12 at 22:24   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
I'd stick with what you knew was good to be honest and bigger bore generally = more power

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daine
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Registered: 28th Feb 07
Location: rossington
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18th Jun 12 at 22:25   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
When you buy new rings Martin, you should put them in the bores before they go on the pistons,
the gap in the ring should be measured with feeler gauges!! its been a long time since I did a set
so can`t remember the measurements. If the gap is two small it needs filing out, so when the ring
expands, it doesn`t shatter.
When putting the rings on the piston, correct me if I`m wrong= two compression rings, one scraper ring
and an oil ring at the bottom thats made up of three, first ring on! move the gap on the next 1/3 round
the piston from it and so on
Darryl H
Organiser: South Central
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Registered: 19th Nov 09
Location: Camberley Drives: Porsche 944
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18th Jun 12 at 22:26   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by daine
move the gap on the next 1/3 round
the piston from it and so on


That's a good point if you haven't done that but I'd assume you have

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Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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18th Jun 12 at 22:29   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Darryl H
quote:
Originally posted by daine
move the gap on the next 1/3 round
the piston from it and so on


That's a good point if you haven't done that but I'd assume you have


yeah i moved the rings round so the gaps wasn't lined up together. wasn't aware you had to check with the feeler gauge i just assumed you put them in as they were the right ones for the car.
l6tbm
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Registered: 22nd Jun 11
Location: Glenrothes, Fife
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18th Jun 12 at 22:36   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
Just had a quick read through some of this thread, Cracking car mate

Some hard work has went into this, I done something similar with the servo pipe to powerbox on mine. What exhaust manifold you using on your motor?
Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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18th Jun 12 at 22:38   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by l6tbm
Just had a quick read through some of this thread, Cracking car mate

Some hard work has went into this, I done something similar with the servo pipe to powerbox on mine. What exhaust manifold you using on your motor?


Thanks! 4-2-1 Janspeed
daine
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Registered: 28th Feb 07
Location: rossington
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18th Jun 12 at 22:41   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
Yea, not to worry mate, they make one size ring for +10,+20&+30 thou
don`t think for one minute you took to much out with honer or glacier breaker as
they were called back in my day
got some work on martin, but all is not lost
Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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18th Jun 12 at 22:52   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by daine
Yea, not to worry mate, they make one size ring for +10,+20&+30 thou
don`t think for one minute you took to much out with honer or glacier breaker as
they were called back in my day
got some work on martin, but all is not lost


thanks daine, ill hopefully get it all stripped down again this weekend!
Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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21st Jun 12 at 22:49   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
21/6

Decided not to strip it down, changed the oil to Motorsport running in oil insured it proper and I'm gonna see how it goes. Hopefully it will bed in. Still overfuelling like mad for no reason though.

Got two new dials coming in soon, just making up the holder then it's off to get flocked and hopefully into the car soon. Pics to follow
Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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22nd Jun 12 at 18:09   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
22/6

dad made this up ready to be flocked soon

Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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23rd Jun 12 at 11:22   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
done some diognostic reading this morning with an op-com tool i bought. came out with the following readings:


Measuring blocks information:

System Voltage,13.6 V
Immobiliser,Active
Immobiliser Signal,Received
Fuel Pump Relay,Active 0V
TPS Signal (Throttle Position Sensor),0 %
TPS Signal (Throttle Position Sensor),0.66 V
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure),0.39 bar
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure),1.56 V
Coolant Temperature,90 °C
Coolant Temperature,2.01 V
Intake Air Temperature,36 °C
Intake Air Temperature,1.48 V
Transmission Coding,Manual Transmission
Park/Neutral Switch,R-D-3-2-1 12V
A/C Information Switch,Inactive 0V
A/C Load Signal (Air Conditioning),Inactive 0V
Injection Pulse,3.1 ms
Clear Flood Mode,Inactive
Spark Angle before TDC (Top Dead Centre),3 °CA
Knock Cell Number,10
Cyl.1 Knock Retard,0 °CA
Cyl.2 Knock Retard,0 °CA
Cyl.3 Knock Retard,0 °CA
Cyl.4 Knock Retard,0 °CA
Secondary Air Pump Relay,Inactive
Air Control Solenoid,Inactive
EGR Position Command (Exhaust- Gas Recirculation),0 %
EGR Position Feedback (Exhaust Gas Recirculation),0 %
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,0 %
O2 Sensor,345 mV
Air/Fuel Ratio,15
O2 Sensor Loop,Closed
Air/Fuel Status,Lean
O2 Integrator,126 Steps
O2-Loop BLM Enable (Block Learn Map),Active
O2 BLM Cell Number (Block Learn Multiplier),18
O2 BLM Cell Content (Block Learn Multiplier),117
Engine Speed,900 RPM
IAC Control Enable (Idle Air Control),Active
Idle Air Control,61 Steps
Desired Idle P-N,62 RPM
Idle Adjust P-N,Modified
Desired Idle Drive (R-D-3-2-1),900 RPM
Idle Adjust Drive (R-D-3-2-1),Not Modified
Desired Engine Idle Speed,900 RPM
Idle Adjust,Not Modified
Engine Load,9 %
Torque Control,Inactive
A/C Relay (Air Conditioning),Inactive 12V
Air Conditioning,Present
Vehicle Speed Pulse,Not Received
Vehicle Speed,0 km/h
Telltale (Check Light),Off 12V
Blink Code Request,Inactive 12V
Dec. Fuel Cutoff (Deceleration),Inactive
Full Load Enrichment,Inactive


and


OP-COM 100219a - PC based diagnostic tool

Date and time>,01/01/1988. 00:1447

Workshop information:

hkj


Selected model>,1999,Corsa-B,Engine,X 16 XE

Control Unit:

Keyword #1: EF
Keyword #2: 8F

Normal timing parameter set.



Measuring blocks information:

System Voltage,13.9 V
Immobiliser,Active
Immobiliser Signal,Received
Fuel Pump Relay,Active 0V
TPS Signal (Throttle Position Sensor),0 %
TPS Signal (Throttle Position Sensor),0.66 V
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure),0.39 bar
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure),1.54 V
Coolant Temperature,75 °C
Coolant Temperature,2.55 V
Intake Air Temperature,24 °C
Intake Air Temperature,2.10 V
Transmission Coding,Manual Transmission
Park/Neutral Switch,R-D-3-2-1 12V
A/C Information Switch,Inactive 0V
A/C Load Signal (Air Conditioning),Inactive 0V
Injection Pulse,3.3 ms
Clear Flood Mode,Inactive
Spark Angle before TDC (Top Dead Centre),11 °CA
Knock Cell Number,10
Cyl.1 Knock Retard,0 °CA
Cyl.2 Knock Retard,0 °CA
Cyl.3 Knock Retard,0 °CA
Cyl.4 Knock Retard,1 °CA
Secondary Air Pump Relay,Inactive
Air Control Solenoid,Inactive
EGR Position Command (Exhaust- Gas Recirculation),0 %
EGR Position Feedback (Exhaust Gas Recirculation),0 %
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,0 %
O2 Sensor,486 mV
Air/Fuel Ratio,14
O2 Sensor Loop,Closed
Air/Fuel Status,Rich
O2 Integrator,127 Steps
O2-Loop BLM Enable (Block Learn Map),Inactive
O2 BLM Cell Number (Block Learn Multiplier),18
O2 BLM Cell Content (Block Learn Multiplier),120
Engine Speed,900 RPM
IAC Control Enable (Idle Air Control),Active
Idle Air Control,34 Steps
Desired Idle P-N,662 RPM
Idle Adjust P-N,Modified
Desired Idle Drive (R-D-3-2-1),912 RPM
Idle Adjust Drive (R-D-3-2-1),Not Modified
Desired Engine Idle Speed,912 RPM
Idle Adjust,Not Modified
Engine Load,9 %
Torque Control,Inactive
A/C Relay (Air Conditioning),Inactive 12V
Air Conditioning,Present
Vehicle Speed Pulse,Not Received
Vehicle Speed,0 km/h
Telltale (Check Light),Off 12V
Blink Code Request,Inactive 12V
Dec. Fuel Cutoff (Deceleration),Inactive
Full Load Enrichment,Inactive


there are at two seperate occasions. i thought the O2 sensor was playing up as it goes up the scale very quickly and quickly changes from lean to rich and back, but i understand this is normal?

[Edited on 23-06-2012 by deadliner]
scoobymark
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Registered: 24th Jan 12
Location: Bromborough, Merseyside
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23rd Jun 12 at 12:36   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
Yes it's normal for an 02 sensor to switch from lean to rich as it makes adjustments to get the fuelling right and lambda to 1
Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
User status: Offline
23rd Jun 12 at 22:57   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by scoobymark
Yes it's normal for an 02 sensor to switch from lean to rich as it makes adjustments to get the fuelling right and lambda to 1


yeah thats what ive got thanks
Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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21st Jul 12 at 15:33   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
as some of you know ive been having some serious problems since i rebuilt my X16XE . blue smoke, over fueling etc...

piston rings and valve stem seals have been done but still blue smoke on startup and under load.

took the head off again today to replace with a recon one and this is what i found on the pistons.



the top lip of the bores have a burnt mark around them, but that's just the top, not the whole bore. no scoring on the bores or anything. valves are just as black if not worse.

rings or stem seals?
daine
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Registered: 28th Feb 07
Location: rossington
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24th Jul 12 at 07:50   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
Now you've got it stripped down this far Martin, you might as well drop the sump
and check ring's mate, always best when it's this far! just in case.
By the way, great work mate, keep at it, you'll enjoy it when its done
shaunmods
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Registered: 12th Mar 07
Location: Glascote, Staffordshire
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24th Jul 12 at 08:21   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
Smoke on start up will be the valve stem seals Martin. They can cause it to smoke under load at times as well.

Would it puff out a bit of smoke when pulling away after waiting at traffic lights etc? Would it start to smoke on idle if you left it idling?
Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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24th Jul 12 at 09:04   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
Wouldn't say it would smoke at lights unless I put my foot down and I havent noticed it smoking if I leave it running I

[Edited on 24-07-2012 by deadliner]
Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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25th Jul 12 at 22:50   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
`25/7


new head


inlet

in the car

and done



changed the head over with a recon one to see if it was infact the head at fault. with the old head i had a slight hunting on tick-over. put the new head on and now its shaking and popping all over the place. you can physically feel yourself move in the car!. took the belt off again tonight just to double check it was timed correctly which is was , but its still the same.

cant see any leaks on hoses, put a load of sealant around the inlet just incase and still no change. No eml either so ive lost patience with again! :@

had the bloody thing out so many times, i really cannot see what could be wrong.

anyone have any other suggestions as this is really pissing me and my dad off haha and mr sledge hammer might meet the engine some time soon
Christopher
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Registered: 14th Oct 10
Location: Eastbourne
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26th Jul 12 at 07:06   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
So glad i didnt buy that engine! Seems youve had more than your fair share of bad luck with it bud!
Kieran
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Registered: 12th Sep 08
Location: Kent
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26th Jul 12 at 09:42   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
Buy a let mate lol
Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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26th Jul 12 at 12:00   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Christopher
So glad i didnt buy that engine! Seems youve had more than your fair share of bad luck with it bud!


Bad luck isnt the word lol
gav93
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Registered: 27th Nov 10
Location: Bexleyheath Kent
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26th Jul 12 at 12:39   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
Bet youre wishing you went down the 'typical' XE 2.0 route now hey mate

hope you get it sorted soon!
daine
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Registered: 28th Feb 07
Location: rossington
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26th Jul 12 at 16:51   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
Hi Martin, New problems then! have you checked the HT leads are on correctly
and make sure your cam and crank sensor's are plugged into the correct!.
Also Martin check your Knock sensor under the inlet manifold mate then if all these fail
get back to me.
Martin W
Organiser: South East
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Registered: 10th Aug 09
Location: Welling, Greater London
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27th Jul 12 at 22:24   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote
Cheers Daine ill have a look at all that an report back ASAP. What I did notice was one of yhe stumpy nuts that hold on the cam sensor wouldn't tighten, although it doesnt move away from the inner casing maybe the cam sensor could be slightly off? Feels lumpy like its running updated cams and you can see the engine rock back and forth all the time

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