steveboyslim
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Registered: 20th Sep 00
Location: herts
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quote:
Originally posted by Rick Draper
quote:
Originally posted by steveboyslim
quote:
Originally posted by Rick Draper
Steve do you not think it would be wise to modify the inlet if possible to add a waterway?
I think that having the water gallery at the cam belt end, inlet side, connected to the back of the water pump with a decent size water pipe as the original must help when combined with a bleed pipe back to the header tank (which Ben has done).
Steve
I thought these inlet Jay made only used the top breather pipe and not the larger lower one ala standard XE and Jenvey style? Thats the way its always been on all the ones i have seen, -6 style/size fitting/pipe.
Here is a photo:
[Edited on 09-04-2012 by Rick Draper]
Ben had an early inlet without that fitting shown in you picture, he now has that fitting(bleed pipe) but there is no supply from the back of the water pump to the head as standard/Jenvey.
What I am suggesting is some how (easier said than done) replace/move that fitting with say a -10 or -12 or bigger fitting, connected to the rear of the water pump maybe welding a fitting on a replacment metal rear water pipe and joining the two with a hose.
Steve
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Dale
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Registered: 7th Oct 07
Location: Swindon
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I'm currently looking into doing this on my setup as stated above.....
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Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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i think its quite important as i can't worker how the head is getting a water supply really.
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dewismotorsport
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Registered: 16th Feb 08
Location: Coventry & Poole
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You don't need the big water pipe on the inlet as all it is a inlet warmer designed for the colder country's if you look at it carefully all it does is loop back on itself, I don't have it and now have no problems with overheating, I spent a lot of time fully bleeding the system which cured my problem
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corsadonk
Premium Member
Registered: 4th Jul 09
Location: Marlborough, Wiltshire
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I've seen the same thing happen on a Boggs brothers manifold which didn't have a tail to join to the three way hose. I'm off to Dale's tomorrow night to see if we can make something to solve the problem.
Fairplay for keeping at it. 
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Mark.W
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Registered: 3rd Jan 07
Location: County Durham
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quote:
Originally posted by bigron1988
quote:
Originally posted by Mark.W
Ron you need to add these to you carbon collection.
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=CORSA+B+MATS&start=357&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1441&bih=710&tbm=isch&tbnid=AkZBi6z4mBl2LM:&imgrefurl=http://www.autostyle.co.za/corsa-b-carbon-look-mudflaps.html&docid=CbgTe0R6JTh6gM&imgurl=http://www.autostyle.co.za/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/9/c9432bb344f2019cf54b_large_18.jpg&w=400&h=300&ei=_BqDT-bJIOL80QXQ3uT5Bg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=372&vpy=403&dur=2118&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=127&ty=118&sig=113835044782113917822&page=16&tbnh=161&tbnw=213&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:19,s:357,i:207
Like John said there fake carbon, no good for me
Bloody exspensive for fakes lyk.id want the real deal for that kind of money 
[Edited on 09-04-2012 by Mark.W]
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Dale
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Registered: 7th Oct 07
Location: Swindon
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quote:
Originally posted by Nic Barnes
i think its quite important as i can't worker how the head is getting a water supply really.
I agree and I would rather fit one to be safe...
quote:
Originally posted by dewismotorsport
You don't need the big water pipe on the inlet as all it is a inlet warmer designed for the colder country's if you look at it carefully all it does is loop back on itself, I don't have it and now have no problems with overheating, I spent a lot of time fully bleeding the system which cured my problem
I thought it was a warmer for inlet but it also a feed for the head....
quote:
Originally posted by corsadonk
I've seen the same thing happen on a Boggs brothers manifold which didn't have a tail to join to the three way hose. I'm off to Dale's tomorrow night to see if we can make something to solve the problem.
Fairplay for keeping at it.
Should be fun tomorrow  
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dewismotorsport
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Registered: 16th Feb 08
Location: Coventry & Poole
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It can supply water but when closed it can still circulate via the thermostat and pipe by gearbox
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Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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its the main difference between mine and rons that i noticed. can't remember how many hours it was on the dyno for the other friday but coolant never got near 95. its only sitting still where it rises. I've not suffered with over heating or pressurising, so thats all i can see thats different. like i say, I'm not an engine builder like steve is, so I'm only going on what I've experienced/can see.
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bigron1988
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Registered: 29th Aug 09
Location: Southport, Merseyside
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quote:
Originally posted by dewismotorsport
You don't need the big water pipe on the inlet as all it is a inlet warmer designed for the colder country's if you look at it carefully all it does is loop back on itself, I don't have it and now have no problems with overheating, I spent a lot of time fully bleeding the system which cured my problem
this is what ive been lead to believe, prob a stupid question but how did you bleed your system in the end
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steveboyslim
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Registered: 20th Sep 00
Location: herts
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quote:
Originally posted by dewismotorsport
You don't need the big water pipe on the inlet as all it is a inlet warmer designed for the colder country's if you look at it carefully all it does is loop back on itself, I don't have it and now have no problems with overheating, I spent a lot of time fully bleeding the system which cured my problem
The small pipe does the manifold heating, the larger I thought also feeds the water gallery to the head with additional water, which in turn feeds the manifold heating then returning to the header also helping to bleed any air out of the system.
Steve
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GregGsi
Premium Member
Registered: 6th Jan 08
Location: Leigh, Wigan
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will then ben got head lol
new head time
BHP vaux
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keidicko
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Registered: 15th Jan 12
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quote:
Originally posted by steveboyslim
quote:
Originally posted by dewismotorsport
You don't need the big water pipe on the inlet as all it is a inlet warmer designed for the colder country's if you look at it carefully all it does is loop back on itself, I don't have it and now have no problems with overheating, I spent a lot of time fully bleeding the system which cured my problem
The small pipe does the manifold heating, the larger I thought also feeds the water gallery to the head with additional water, which in turn feeds the manifold heating then returning to the header also helping to bleed any air out of the system.
Steve
Is there enough meat on head and block to drill them out for a larger stud and nut ?
What make stud and nuts is he useing why not order some with a higher tensile strength ?
If the head is lifting under boost no gasket will seal it will it ?
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dewismotorsport
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Registered: 16th Feb 08
Location: Coventry & Poole
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quote:
Originally posted by steveboyslim
quote:
Originally posted by dewismotorsport
You don't need the big water pipe on the inlet as all it is a inlet warmer designed for the colder country's if you look at it carefully all it does is loop back on itself, I don't have it and now have no problems with overheating, I spent a lot of time fully bleeding the system which cured my problem
The small pipe does the manifold heating, the larger I thought also feeds the water gallery to the head with additional water, which in turn feeds the manifold heating then returning to the header also helping to bleed any air out of the system.
Steve
How I understand it: quoting Rob Twitchall
The 3 way pipe is the inlet into the water pump, it is there to allow water to be sucked from the engine back into the water pump through 2 route the first from the back of the inlet (the one most ppl are missing) this allows water to be sucked from the engine (head) before the thermostat is open the second is from the black pipe this comes from the radiator much larger diameter meaning once the thermostat is open this should be the preffered route for the water.
Now the way I see it is without the rear pipe the engine will warm up maybe a little faster but there is still flow from the end of the head so its not a major problem
Also Steve if you open the header tank when running water is returning from the head from the small pipe, hence needing it to get rid of airlocks which Ben has
[Edited on 10-04-2012 by dewismotorsport]
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dewismotorsport
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Registered: 16th Feb 08
Location: Coventry & Poole
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quote:
Originally posted by Nic Barnes
its the main difference between mine and rons that i noticed. can't remember how many hours it was on the dyno for the other friday but coolant never got near 95. its only sitting still where it rises. I've not suffered with over heating or pressurising, so thats all i can see thats different. like i say, I'm not an engine builder like steve is, so I'm only going on what I've experienced/can see.
Mine is same setup as Bens and mine doesn't overheat at all now once bleed properly
Mine only rises at long idle but if fans are on it doesn't
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dewismotorsport
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Registered: 16th Feb 08
Location: Coventry & Poole
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quote:
Originally posted by bigron1988
quote:
Originally posted by dewismotorsport
You don't need the big water pipe on the inlet as all it is a inlet warmer designed for the colder country's if you look at it carefully all it does is loop back on itself, I don't have it and now have no problems with overheating, I spent a lot of time fully bleeding the system which cured my problem
this is what ive been lead to believe, prob a stupid question but how did you bleed your system in the end
Not teaching you to suck eggs here but I'll run through everything I did:
Heater matrix in hot setting
Slowly pour Coolent in allowing it to go down at its own rate
Pump with hand main water hose that joins plastic water pipe and rad until no bubbles come back into header tank
Once at desired level start car and leave to get up to temperature so that thermostat opens and your getting full circulation
Keep checking main hose pumping by hand to see if bubbles come into header tank
Turn off and allow to cool fully
Check level and top up if needed and replace lid
Job done
IMO I think your getting airlocks in the head which then when on boost is getting too hot and causing excess pressure/heat and causing the head to warp
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dewismotorsport
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Registered: 16th Feb 08
Location: Coventry & Poole
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Oh also double check your fan blades are on the correct way try reversing the polarity and see if you get more or less air flow also remove screw and spin blade over and try again, I found I had mine on the wrong way before and was only getting 70% fan effiency. My fans are on the outside of the rad so they blow into bay so work in conjunction with natural air flow when driving or on dyno
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Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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Ive only got the one fan on mine works spot on. Temp gets to 95 then that's it even middle of summer.
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bigron1988
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Registered: 29th Aug 09
Location: Southport, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by keidicko
quote:
Originally posted by steveboyslim
quote:
Originally posted by dewismotorsport
You don't need the big water pipe on the inlet as all it is a inlet warmer designed for the colder country's if you look at it carefully all it does is loop back on itself, I don't have it and now have no problems with overheating, I spent a lot of time fully bleeding the system which cured my problem
The small pipe does the manifold heating, the larger I thought also feeds the water gallery to the head with additional water, which in turn feeds the manifold heating then returning to the header also helping to bleed any air out of the system.
Steve
Is there enough meat on head and block to drill them out for a larger stud and nut ?
What make stud and nuts is he useing why not order some with a higher tensile strength ?
If the head is lifting under boost no gasket will seal it will it ?
studs are staying tight it looks like the head was compressing under boost , coscast head should hopefully sort it
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bigron1988
Member
Registered: 29th Aug 09
Location: Southport, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by dewismotorsport
quote:
Originally posted by bigron1988
quote:
Originally posted by dewismotorsport
You don't need the big water pipe on the inlet as all it is a inlet warmer designed for the colder country's if you look at it carefully all it does is loop back on itself, I don't have it and now have no problems with overheating, I spent a lot of time fully bleeding the system which cured my problem
this is what ive been lead to believe, prob a stupid question but how did you bleed your system in the end
Not teaching you to suck eggs here but I'll run through everything I did:
Heater matrix in hot setting
Slowly pour Coolent in allowing it to go down at its own rate
Pump with hand main water hose that joins plastic water pipe and rad until no bubbles come back into header tank
Once at desired level start car and leave to get up to temperature so that thermostat opens and your getting full circulation
Keep checking main hose pumping by hand to see if bubbles come into header tank
Turn off and allow to cool fully
Check level and top up if needed and replace lid
Job done
IMO I think your getting airlocks in the head which then when on boost is getting too hot and causing excess pressure/heat and causing the head to warp
just what i did, thanks
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bigron1988
Member
Registered: 29th Aug 09
Location: Southport, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by dewismotorsport
Oh also double check your fan blades are on the correct way try reversing the polarity and see if you get more or less air flow also remove screw and spin blade over and try again, I found I had mine on the wrong way before and was only getting 70% fan effiency. My fans are on the outside of the rad so they blow into bay so work in conjunction with natural air flow when driving or on dyno
alreday checked them mate and they are on right way, i was only running 1 ebay fan so im now going to be running 3 kenlow fans as that should help alot
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bigron1988
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Registered: 29th Aug 09
Location: Southport, Merseyside
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Nic Barnes
Ive only got the one fan on mine works spot on. Temp gets to 95 then that's it even middle of summer.
cunt 
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3i_gaz
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Registered: 29th Nov 07
Location: Liverpool
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My 2p.... Your still a Jew.
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DERV-POWER
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Registered: 13th Sep 09
Location: Greenfield, Flintshire
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you can lend my vacuum bleeder when time comes for a fee (passenger ride in it)
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Dale
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Registered: 7th Oct 07
Location: Swindon
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As Ben asked me to copy it in from my project thread....
Now onto the "Cooling issue/not issue" if you can been following Big Rons thread... This is what me and Mike have come up with...
Dewis Inlet with coolant feed marked out, you can see it has vent to header tank but nothing from 3 way pipe at the back of the engine
Standard Inlet
The Standard inlet manifold has a feed from the 3 way pipe with internal bore of roughly 25mm and the feed to the head has a width of 20mm.
First off was to make an adapter to go from the 3 way pipe, internal diameter of 26mm. We used a Barbed 1" adapter (external diameter of 25mm) which was braised onto a 1/2" barbed adapter (external diameter of 13mm) The reason this step was used will come clear soon...
Adapter that was made
Then to keep inside the 20mm hole in the head we used a 3/8 BSP parallel thread to 1/2" barbed fitting which uses an outside diameter of 17mm (thread end) the next size up was 21mm which would be to big for the port in the head.
Adapter with dowty washer
Drill and tap the inlet with 3/8 BSP thread
Fitted
Check fitment with inlet gasket
Adapter in
Trial fit inlet with joining hose
With joining hose fitted
From underneath the inlet
Now I know its still slightly more restrictive over the standard feed but some people arn't having issues without them, So IMO anything is better than nothing. There is still room to drill the adapters out internally aswell.
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