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Author Remote central locking
greenelephant
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Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
User status: Offline
28th May 06 at 17:29   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

OK I have tested the white and white black wires from ECu with a multimeter. When Pressed they both read -0.22V and go bk 2 0V when clicking in ECU has stopped now I have wired the white to red/brown and white/black 2 brown and white. Now the red/brown when the lock button is clicked sucessfully reads -0.22V. (no probs) but the brown/white wire reads 0V! (ding-ding ) is this where my problem lies? sounds silly 2 ask, but if a bad earth is on the brown/white wire. How can i resolve it flash22?

[Edited on 28-05-2006 by greenelephant]

[Edited on 28-05-2006 by greenelephant]
greenelephant
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Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
User status: Offline
28th May 06 at 20:06   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Oh btw. ive tested the E3 earth point on the fuel pump (uses same earthing point as CL motors and it seems 2 b working fine. i got a reading of 12V from the earth point. And lastly the ECu connects to E7 which also is working good as I has a reading of 12V. So do u reckon the brown/white wiring somewhere is damaged?

**UPDATE**

Done more testing. Took the C/L loom plug which connects to the C/L motors in the door. On the passenger side door, testing the Brown/white wire. 4 some reason im actually getting a -0.22V reading. but I dont get a reading at all from the brown/white drivers side C/L loom plug.

HMMM.... there we go, more clues. Where do u think the fault is m8?


[Edited on 29-05-2006 by greenelephant]
greenelephant
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Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
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29th May 06 at 11:29   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

can n e 1 help!!!
Wabby69
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Registered: 1st Nov 05
Location: Lincoln
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29th May 06 at 11:46   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Your getting the - reading cos u have the multimeter the wrong way around / Wires the wrong way around!

Try swapping the wires around on the motor, then they should work mate!!
greenelephant
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Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
User status: Offline
29th May 06 at 11:57   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

OK wabby. What the problem is. Is the C?L loom. The ecu wires r functioning correctly m8. Just that the brown/white wire from the fottwell to the drivers door motor isnt carrying an electrical current but 4 some reason the brown/white wire from the footwell to the passenger door motor is....

and I was wandering wabby if u could help me? On the haynes mnual there is a soldering or splice joint and I was wandering where it was

n e info is v. much appreaciated
cheers

[Edited on 29-05-2006 by greenelephant]
Wabby69
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Registered: 1st Nov 05
Location: Lincoln
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29th May 06 at 12:10   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

The two you are putting the multimeter across!

Will run the voltage the opposite way, which should force them to lock / unlock because you can hear the relays you say, which means the voltage is getting switched to the solenoids, but if its unlocking them and their already unlocked. . they will not move if you get what i mean!

Just swap the wires around that you are testing the multimeter across, and it 99.9% will work
greenelephant
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Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
User status: Offline
29th May 06 at 12:30   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

do u have email wabby? U2U me it plz
greenelephant
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Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
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29th May 06 at 14:17   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Infact. as u know the lock/unlock wires supply a negative voltage of only -0.3V. And im thinking that surely musnt b enough power to force open my locks on ma door. So i just wanna know is will I need to supply 12V to my standard GM door motors or will I need 2 buy some motors for my kit?

thanks


[Edited on 04-06-2006 by greenelephant]
greenelephant
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Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
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4th Jun 06 at 18:06   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

n e 1 help plz?

thanx
greenelephant
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Registered: 20th Mar 06
Location: Bedfordshire
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5th Jun 06 at 13:05   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Does n e 1 know if the motors need a 12V supply??? Because this thing has bin pissing me off 4 ages!! Ive tried 2 sort this ting out since last month and Im getting nowhere!! If any1 knows plz answer! I would b gr8ful 4 n e feedback
flash22
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Registered: 13th Sep 05
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5th Jun 06 at 14:03   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

The lock and unlock wires work on a basic logic and swing from minus voltage to a plus voltage you woulnt need any extra motors

if you short the lock or unlock wire to ground it should operate the motor in the doors to lock/unlock
THIS IS ALL THE RELAY IS DOING !!!

Either you have wired it wrong

Your CDL Unit (behind the Ecu) Is dieing

or

Your mega cheepo remote locking kit Has a fault And didnt work to start with

ya get what you pay for put it down to experience and go and buy a decent one or A basic alarm !!!!!!

sorry to sound so harsh. I have been there done that and got the t-shirt,Cd and the dvd

a couple of links to the ones i have fitted

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LASERLINE-210-REMOTE-CENTRAL-LOCKING-INTERFACE-NEW_W0QQitemZ8069856220QQcategoryZ75329QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/COBRA-1046-Keyless-Entry_W0QQitemZ8065743046QQcategoryZ75329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


I prefer the laserline one as its easyier to fit 15-20 mins done and dusted has a lot more featurs than the corba and also has boot pop and closeure outputs

[Edited on 05-06-2006 by flash22]

[Edited on 05-06-2006 by flash22]

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