Tiger_kpt
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Registered: 2nd Apr 05
Location: Retford, Nottinghamshire
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I fit my Stage 3 head over the weekend, was all up and running fine when I had finished it on Friday afternoon. Drove great until late Saturday night then the ECU lught came on and stayed on.
The engine basically ticks over fine. Takes its time to start...have to pump the accelerator pedal on ignition to start it up but think that's due to the new Stage 3 head and other mods such as Mantzel and Piper cams, so will more thank likely need a remap as am running on standard management at the moment. But once started it runs and ticks over fine. After the head was fitted it ran like a dream to be fair, no issues or anything, until this.
Basically started her up, went for a drive and driving normally the car and engine functions fine. Spot on. But floor the accelerator whilst driving and the engines seems to "choke", doesn't splutter or hesitate, it just seems very asthmatic and doesn't climb through the revs very well at all. Takes ages with the foot planted, even in 1st and 2nd gears. Very reluctant to shift anywhere. Under light throttle pressure it drives more or less spot on from what I can tell. It's only noticeable under medium to high throttle pressure.
And even in neutral out of gear on the drive parked up. If the accelerator is planted hard I can tell that the engine doesn't pick up as it should or did do. It will climb the rev range, just seems like sudden sharp accelerator thrusts and the foot planted to the floor doesn't agree with it like it used to.
Alot more noticeable in gear whilst driving though. Just doesn't want to rev and accelerate hard.
The ECU light is on, and have connected everything back up which should, so that should be off. Am thinking it could be a sensor. What do you think?
Would do the paperclip test or get it diagnosed like normal protocol, but since the engine conversion I haven't wired in the ECU diagnostics port as not sure which wires mate up to which.
Have any ideas? Oh yeah it's the X16XE, MAP sensored and no AFM.
Any advice, experiences and tales of similar problems would be real helpful. Cheers people. Kyle. 
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tom_simes
Show Staff
Organiser: South Wales
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Registered: 12th Jan 05
Location: Undy, Newport Drives: Skoda Octavia vRS estate
User status: Online
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Rob B had the same kind of problem a couple of days ago, and it turned out it was the pipe to the MAP sensor had split. Just give it all a good look over, check everything for damage.
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Rob B
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Registered: 8th Jan 04
Location: Area Motorsport Drives: Race EP3
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Pipe on the MAP sensor had split as Tom said and i had the same symtoms, could also be the TPS if its only happening at full throttle etc ... your stuck in the same situation as me with not having a diog port wired up  could also be Lambda or ICV its all guessing,.... what you can do is clean the ICV so you can take that out of the equation and steal a MAP sensor off a mates Corsa just to try 
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Tiger_kpt
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Registered: 2nd Apr 05
Location: Retford, Nottinghamshire
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OK lads. Good help there. I have a spare throttle body in the garage which also has an ICV and a TPS attached to it. So I can swap the body over on my Mantzel to see if it's one of those two parts. If not then i'm thinking MAP sensor. Don't think the pipe is split as am getting a good vacuum/flow of pressured air through it, but will double check on that.
If the pipe is OK i'm guessing it has got to be the MAP sensor unit.
Either that or could it be either......
* a bad Earth?
* the other airflow sensor thing straight after the loom on the air-pipe-work before the inlet and TB??? Think it might be an air temperature sensor??? Not sure on that.
Anyone know of someone who has a spare MAP sensor lying about who wants to sell it to me? As don't know anyone who has got an X14XE/X16XE Corsa round here. Cheers all.
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Tiger_kpt
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Registered: 2nd Apr 05
Location: Retford, Nottinghamshire
User status: Offline
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Turned out it was the damn crank sensor people. It had shook itself loose from it's mounting. Managed to wire in the diagnostics port and carry out a paper-clip test. Good stuff.
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broster
Premium Member
Registered: 6th Dec 02
Location: Drives: E39
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the diog port is so important to wire up imo, saves s many problems!
i have had the crank shaft sensor work loose on my engine, the vibrations shake all bolts loose in my car... bloody annoying....
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5chaap2k
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Registered: 20th Apr 05
Location: Schiedam, Netherlands
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got a RR-remap and printout yet?
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broster
Premium Member
Registered: 6th Dec 02
Location: Drives: E39
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me?
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5chaap2k
Member
Registered: 20th Apr 05
Location: Schiedam, Netherlands
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no tiger haha
you're trying to hijack his thread 
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broster
Premium Member
Registered: 6th Dec 02
Location: Drives: E39
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lol, i did wonder.... sorry tiger......
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Tiger_kpt
Member
Registered: 2nd Apr 05
Location: Retford, Nottinghamshire
User status: Offline
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No still need a remap. But may go for a compelte aftermarket management. Since sorting out all of the electrics and having bedded in the new head it starts first time and everytime. So much better.
Goes like stink.
Will likely go for a simple rolling-road or live-road remap in the time being just to save some cash. Should unleash quite a bit of power and torque though combined with all of my other modifications. Need the rev limiter raised well above 7k too. Probably 7500k. Already got ARP conrod bolts in my bottom end as knew I would be doing this. IMAO.
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Rob B
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Registered: 8th Jan 04
Location: Area Motorsport Drives: Race EP3
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Sorry to hijack your thread a tad but when you get a re-map is it done through the diognostic's port ... im getting an ECU thats been mapped for a performance inlet and limit raised to 7.2k in about a week so just wandering really
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Tiger_kpt
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Registered: 2nd Apr 05
Location: Retford, Nottinghamshire
User status: Offline
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No probs mate. It can be done in several ways. A rolling-road and live-road re-map is done through the diagnostics port yeah. Although you can also have it done by removing the ECU from the car and the mapper can map it by plugging the ECU straight into the mapping equipment. Obviously the live maps through the diagnostics port are better abd probably better slightly in the region of 1 maybe 2BHP, but the latter is just as good really and likely cheaper just so long as the mapper knows what he's doing when it comes to the modifications you've got. I'd personally try to wire in the diagnostics port mate. Did it myself yesterday. Fairly simple.
Wire the yellow/brown wire off the 1.6 16V wiring loom plug to the back of the diagnostics port in PIN 6.
And wire the brown/white wire off the 1.6 16V wiring loom to the brown/white wire on your old 1.2 16V wiring loom.
It's simple in theory. But F*CK ME!!!...... to actually get to the back of the diagnostics port (which is attached to your fusebox panel, above driverside kickpanel) to wire it in to PIN 6 was an absolute ball-ache. Prepare for shredded fingers. IMAO. Just don't be too rough with the wiring back there.
[Edited on 25-01-2006 by Tiger_kpt]
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Rob B
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Registered: 8th Jan 04
Location: Area Motorsport Drives: Race EP3
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Ok mate, ill try and do this tomorrow where did you get the little clips from that the pins are... that push into the port from the back..
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ShEp
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Registered: 9th Aug 05
Location: Dingwall, Highland
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fusebox panel comes out with a couple of screws, and using a diagnostic port with an engine conversion should be relativley hassle free, mine still works and thats fron x14xe to c20let
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Dave A
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Registered: 10th Dec 03
Location: County Durham
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or just put the yellow/brown wire to ground. that will make the light flash the fault codes
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