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Author Hi temp plastic glue
pow
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Registered: 11th Sep 06
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22nd Apr 14 at 18:36   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Got a hairline crack on my egr cooler that is leaking coolant which is a royal pain. Everywhere are saying that you I have replace the entire valve assembly to get a new plastic cooler which is the part at fault - cheapest quote so far is 792. I've tried to split the cooler off by undoing the 4 screws and trying to pursuade it off, it's not coming. I'm after sme glue/putty/paste that I could slap over this tiny crack to stop the leak but don't know what I want. Needs to obviously be temperature resistant and plastic happy... Any ideas?
John
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Registered: 30th Jun 03
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22nd Apr 14 at 18:42   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ukdapper-F815701-Bonding-Putty-Single/dp/B003AROSA8

I don't know if you get non JML versions of this but I think it would do the job.

I've used it on plastic but not high temp.
pow
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22nd Apr 14 at 18:45   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Umm it seems it reactivates at 82 degrees which is no good as the coolant is at 90
Steve
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Registered: 30th Mar 02
Location: Worcestershire Drives: Defender
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22nd Apr 14 at 18:46   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Just use some epoxy, araldite or similar
gazza808
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Registered: 30th Jun 08
Location: Peterborough
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22nd Apr 14 at 18:54   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Soldering iron?

Serious suggestion
pow
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22nd Apr 14 at 18:55   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Gaz I did think about doing that but rather try something like this first!
pow
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22nd Apr 14 at 19:00   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Araldite is only resistant to 65 degrees
alan-g-w
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Registered: 9th Nov 07
Location: Glasgow
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22nd Apr 14 at 19:17   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

This is maybe what you're after, we're using similar stuff in work on industrial ovens just now

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B006C65ZCO?pc_redir=1397734206&robot_redir=1
pow
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22nd Apr 14 at 19:28   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Looks good but it's only a sealer, need an adhesive/epoxy. Found this:

http://www.masterbond.com/tds/ep62-1med

Which seems very hard to get hold of, or, this:

http://www.permabondllc.com/TDS/ET5401_TDS.pdf

Which being a UK company seems to be easier.
Jambo
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Registered: 8th Sep 01
Location: Maidenhead, Drives: VXR Arctic
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22nd Apr 14 at 19:46   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Silicon
VegasPhil
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Registered: 16th Jan 05
Location: Fareham, Hants Drives: Octavia VRS
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22nd Apr 14 at 19:46   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Gripfill


Corsa 2.0 16v Vegas - Sold
pow
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22nd Apr 14 at 20:05   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by Jambo
Silicon


when will people learn SILICON ISNT GLUE
alan-g-w
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22nd Apr 14 at 20:54   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I couldn't find the exact stuff we're using but that seemed closest to it, just read the description there and it does seem to be more of a jointing compound. The stuff we're using is a proper silicon adhesive for sticking large door seals on with and it hardens to a point where you're only able to dent it with your nail but not brittle, it'd be ideal for plastic - plastic

[Edited on 22-04-2014 by alan-g-w]
Mertin
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22nd Apr 14 at 20:59   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Devcon or belzona. We use it at work for repairinf sealing faces on flanged joints, works on high pressure systems, would surely resist high temp aswell
ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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22nd Apr 14 at 21:05   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I'd try some ITW Plexus MA420 - it's got really good gap filling properties and a really wide temperature range as it's epoxy resin based.

The other choice is 3M DP490, but I can't remember what plastics it's compatible with. The Plexus stuff goes on most things like ABS, but check to see what plastic you're bonding as you may need to use the etch primer.

Edit: the DP490 is compatible with ABS and PVC too - there's a primer for it but you might get away without it by just keying the surface and cleaning with solvent.

[Edited on 22-04-2014 by ed]
gazza808
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22nd Apr 14 at 21:10   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by Mertin
Devcon or belzona. We use it at work for repairinf sealing faces on flanged joints, works on high pressure systems, would surely resist high temp aswell


Would struggle to get it in the crack and keep it there,
There's no clamping force on it at a guess?
We also use it alot at work.
pow
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22nd Apr 14 at 21:14   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Ed, that stuff you mentioned is upto 120 degrees but this stuff:

http://uk.farnell.com/3m/fs910040450/scotch-weld-epoxy-adhesive-dp760/dp/1768449

Is 230 - do you think that would work? It's a plastic formed housing... I can take a picture if you would able to be any help in telling me what it is?
ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
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22nd Apr 14 at 21:21   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

We used to bung DP490 in everything which was broken at uni and it would generally fill holes and stick things together just fine - it's bloody good stuff!

Can't comment on the 760 stuff, but it doesn't look like it's got the same filling properties as the 490.
pow
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22nd Apr 14 at 21:25   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

What sort of surface prep would I need to do? Just quick rub with sandpaper, what would I clean it with? Might order some of that 760, seems to be what I want, plus it's from a good brand.
ed
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22nd Apr 14 at 21:35   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Will say on the datasheet, but you can usually get away with a rub down with a red Scotch pad and a clean with some solvent/alcohol. The 3M stuff says you can use a primer if you like, but I've not bothered with it before in the past.
Jamie-C
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22nd Apr 14 at 23:30   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

melt it with soldering iron and fiberglass over it would be what I would do, could always be flattened and painted and no one need never know

 
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