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Corsa Sport » Message Board » General Chat » Hi temp plastic glue » Post Reply
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Jamie-C |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 23:30 |
melt it with soldering iron and fiberglass over it would be what I would do, could always be flattened and painted and no one need never know :p | |
ed |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 21:35 |
Will say on the datasheet, but you can usually get away with a rub down with a red Scotch pad and a clean with some solvent/alcohol. The 3M stuff says you can use a primer if you like, but I've not bothered with it before in the past. | |
pow |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 21:25 |
What sort of surface prep would I need to do? Just quick rub with sandpaper, what would I clean it with? Might order some of that 760, seems to be what I want, plus it's from a good brand. | |
ed |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 21:21 |
We used to bung DP490 in everything which was broken at uni and it would generally fill holes and stick things together just fine - it's bloody good stuff! | |
pow |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 21:14 |
Ed, that stuff you mentioned is upto 120 degrees but this stuff: | |
gazza808 |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 21:10 |
quote: Would struggle to get it in the crack and keep it there, There's no clamping force on it at a guess? We also use it alot at work. | |
ed |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 21:05 |
I'd try some ITW Plexus MA420 - it's got really good gap filling properties and a really wide temperature range as it's epoxy resin based. | |
Mertin |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 20:59 |
Devcon or belzona. We use it at work for repairinf sealing faces on flanged joints, works on high pressure systems, would surely resist high temp aswell | |
alan-g-w |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 20:54 |
I couldn't find the exact stuff we're using but that seemed closest to it, just read the description there and it does seem to be more of a jointing compound. The stuff we're using is a proper silicon adhesive for sticking large door seals on with and it hardens to a point where you're only able to dent it with your nail but not brittle, it'd be ideal for plastic - plastic | |
pow |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 20:05 |
quote: :lol: when will people learn SILICON ISNT GLUE | |
VegasPhil |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 19:46 |
Gripfill :0 | |
Jambo |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 19:46 |
Silicon :0 | |
pow |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 19:28 |
Looks good but it's only a sealer, need an adhesive/epoxy. Found this: | |
alan-g-w |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 19:17 |
This is maybe what you're after, we're using similar stuff in work on industrial ovens just now | |
pow |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 19:00 |
Araldite is only resistant to 65 degrees | |
pow |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 18:55 |
Gaz I did think about doing that but rather try something like this first! | |
gazza808 |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 18:54 |
Soldering iron? | |
Steve |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 18:46 |
Just use some epoxy, araldite or similar | |
pow |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 18:45 |
Umm it seems it reactivates at 82 degrees which is no good as the coolant is at 90 :lol: | |
John |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 18:42 |
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ukdapper-F815701-Bonding-Putty-Single/dp/B003AROSA8 | |
pow |
posted on 22nd Apr 14 at 18:36 |
Got a hairline crack on my egr cooler that is leaking coolant which is a royal pain. Everywhere are saying that you I have replace the entire valve assembly to get a new plastic cooler which is the part at fault - cheapest quote so far is 792. I've tried to split the cooler off by undoing the 4 screws and trying to pursuade it off, it's not coming. I'm after sme glue/putty/paste that I could slap over this tiny crack to stop the leak but don't know what I want. Needs to obviously be temperature resistant and plastic happy... Any ideas? |