Aidan-Fleming
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Registered: 17th May 08
Location: Westhill, Aberdeenshire
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I'm going to cut out and weld over the rear wheel well. And wanted to relocate the battery to the boot. Could anyone tell me how this is done? As I'm slightly confused! With the wiring etc
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Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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Firstly read up on the effects of charging the battery on gas exchange.
You'll want to run a large positive supply wire to the front of the car to join where the original battery was, then you'll earth the battery adjacent to its location in the boot. You'll also need to earth the points in the bay which were previously attached to the battery.
You should also fuse the supply adjacent to the battery.
Spec of the wire depends what you're running, 4 gauge will typically deliver 60A over 15ft within a 3% voltage drop which should therefore be enough.
[Edited on 28-09-2012 by Ian]
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Aidan-Fleming
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Registered: 17th May 08
Location: Westhill, Aberdeenshire
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Oh okay thanks Ian! So what do I do if I want a cut off switch?
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Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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Decide which type, a 2 pole switch can be used in series with the battery supply to cut power to the car but if the engine is running it will carry on due to the alternator still providing power.
The more complicated approach - and the FIA approved one - is to have a 6 pole: 2 for the high amperage battery core, 2 to isolate the ignition which will kill the engine and 2 to ground the alternator to avoid damaging it.
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Aidan-Fleming
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Registered: 17th May 08
Location: Westhill, Aberdeenshire
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Wow! Right over the top of my head lol so I can use an amp power cable and that fuse? To the + on the battery. Then an earth cable from somwhere in the boot to the -? Then all the other earths in the engine bay just attach them to the bulk head?
But then this switch again. So if I get that 6 pole switch where and how does it get wired in?
So like Wire, fuse, switch, wire then onto the +? Or? :/
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Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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quote:
Originally posted by Aidan-Fleming
so I can use an amp power cable and that fuse? To the + on the battery. Then an earth cable from somwhere in the boot to the -? Then all the other earths in the engine bay just attach them to the bulk head?
Yep
quote:
Originally posted by Aidan-Fleming
But then this switch again. So if I get that 6 pole switch where and how does it get wired in?
So like Wire, fuse, switch, wire then onto the +? Or? :/
Battery - fuse - wire - switch - old battery live point on the main poles (these are larger)
old battery live point (you can bridge this off the thick one) - switch - resistor - ground
ignition position 2 I think? - switch - coil
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djgritt
Premium Member
Registered: 1st Nov 07
Location: Dorset Drives: Focus ST / Hyundai i20N
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Ensure you have a SECURE mounting/restraint for the battery too - it's a lot of mass that will move in the event of an accident.
Battery Boxes are a decent shout.
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Aidan-Fleming
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Registered: 17th May 08
Location: Westhill, Aberdeenshire
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Wow that's just a bundle to me mate lol Would probably be better if i got someone to do it for me. But that info and diagram has helped so thanks! What you mean old battery point poles? :/
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Aidan-Fleming
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Registered: 17th May 08
Location: Westhill, Aberdeenshire
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So I have to trace them wires back then run new ones? Or just connect into them?
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Ian
Site Administrator
Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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Old battery point is just where the battery used to be, that will become a few earths that need earthing to the body shell and the live which needs connecting to your new run somehow.
Its tidier to run them back a bit so you're not running a big wire to an invisible battery in the bay but a bit more complicated, you'll need some amount of improvisation to join the lives in the engine bay because you can't bolt that directly to the bodywork anywhere.
Also echo Daves comments about securing the battery.
[Edited on 28-09-2012 by Ian]
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Ste
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Registered: 5th Mar 03
Location: Taif, Saudi Arabia
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If i was fitting a battery inside the passenger compartment i'd be fitting a motorsport type gel battery as the fumes emitted during charging of a lead acid battery can kill. and are also highly flammable.
Fitting a 100amp fuse as close to the battery as possible is best as there is a huge risk of short circuit running a cable through the car. At the very least i'd be spywrapping the cable to give it some protection. To join the new wire to the existing one in the bay could be done using an insulated bulkhead connector
Then you just need to use a big ring terminal, either hammer-on or grub screw type. This is safest and easiest way to do it.
I would rather lose by a mile because i built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me.
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djgritt
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Registered: 1st Nov 07
Location: Dorset Drives: Focus ST / Hyundai i20N
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Couple of pics that may help from when I did mine;
Underbonnet Earth Point - I modified the original batter clamp by drilling it for an M6 or M8 bolt (Can't remember which exactly, think it was the M6) and cutting off the eye for the battery terminal - drilled the old battery tray mounting, rubbed it down to bare metal, used vibration proof washers on the fixing;
Underbonnet Power - ran the new cable from the rear battery to the old battery area, used a power junction block for ICE to do it, mounted on a tray, and then terminated all of the original Positive cabling to it;
Battery Negative/Earth - similar to the underbonnet, but in the boot and with a new clamp for the battery on one end. Used proper 3-phase crimps for the mount to earth;
Battery Terminal clamps;
Battery in an enclosure and clamping arrangement also fitted;
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Aidan-Fleming
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Registered: 17th May 08
Location: Westhill, Aberdeenshire
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That's for them photos and info, very helping actually seeing it!
Thanks everyone else 
Could someone supply a link to the terminals etc? Tht junction box thingy etc? lol
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djgritt
Premium Member
Registered: 1st Nov 07
Location: Dorset Drives: Focus ST / Hyundai i20N
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Junction block was found on eBay in my case
Battery terminals & Clamping system from Halfords
Battery box was from a motorsport supplier - mine was actually a Marine spec enclosure for boats etc.
Crimps & Cable stolen from work  can be bought at most decent electrical suppliers etc though.
I had bolts etc spare anyway. Again, Halfords if you are desperate. B&Q or hardware stores otherwise.
I didn't bother fusing or having a power switch on mine, but I recommend you do look at using them both, I intended to fit them, but never got to it.
[Edited on 28-09-2012 by djgritt]
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djgritt
Premium Member
Registered: 1st Nov 07
Location: Dorset Drives: Focus ST / Hyundai i20N
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Also, there is a useful hole available behind the Glovebox for getting into the Engine bay - it comes out under the Scuttle panel trim near the Screenwash bottle;
I'd recommend using the part pictured by Ste for a safe transfer through it.
Also, it is worth considering using P-Clips etc for securing the cable run through the car;
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Aidan-Fleming
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Registered: 17th May 08
Location: Westhill, Aberdeenshire
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That's a lot if help! Thanks!!
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Aidan-Fleming
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Registered: 17th May 08
Location: Westhill, Aberdeenshire
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This be okay?
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Ian
Site Administrator
Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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That's a two pole, it won't kill the engine if its running.
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Aidan-Fleming
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Registered: 17th May 08
Location: Westhill, Aberdeenshire
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Oh okay mate thanks )
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Aidan-Fleming
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Registered: 17th May 08
Location: Westhill, Aberdeenshire
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This one? :/
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tom_simes
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Organiser: South Wales
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Registered: 12th Jan 05
Location: Undy, Newport Drives: Skoda Octavia vRS estate
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Yes.
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Aidan-Fleming
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Registered: 17th May 08
Location: Westhill, Aberdeenshire
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I recieved my switch this morning. I'm a bit lost on wiring it to the ignition switch and to the ignition coil :/ there's four prongs on the bottom and the diagram above explains it, but to me means nothing lol how do I wire it at the ignition switch and what wire? Also how do I wire it at the ignition coil? :/
Thanks again for all the help
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