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Author Coolant renewal on 1.2 8v
mg1969
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Registered: 15th Apr 07
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29th Jan 08 at 00:07   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I want to renew the coolant on my 1.2 8v as there are signs of corrosion in the expansion bottle, plus mixture looks to watery.

I read through Haynes' how to and the bit about flushing the engine sounds a bit scary. Youve got to remove the drive belt to get to the thermostat. Ive never done this before and would be concerned about getting it on it right again.

Question is if I dont flush the engine (and just do the rad) will the job not be a goodun?

Cheers.
carnuts
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Registered: 28th Aug 05
Location: Hertfordshire
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29th Jan 08 at 00:30   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

all depends if the thermostat is ok or not if its ok and you just want to change the coolant over then its simple enough just take the hose off the bottom of the radiator and hold it down and let it come out into a bucket or similar

flush as you want with just water and then put the hose back on and fill it back up with some anti freeze and some water run her up with the cap off for little while let the air come out and put the heater on and check that its nice and warm

if so job done
mg1969
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Registered: 15th Apr 07
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29th Jan 08 at 09:09   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Thanks for the reply carnuts.

The thermostat is working fine. I will do as you say, drain from radiator and flush
Kurt
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Registered: 23rd Oct 05
Location: 4 Q All
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29th Jan 08 at 10:54   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

when i did mine i drained it from the temp sender on the bottom of the rad on the left side.. id let it cool down though.. i was impatient and had my hands round a hot brass sender and my arm next to a hot hose...
Richardhhha
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Registered: 29th Sep 07
Location: Croydon, Greater London
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29th Jan 08 at 11:14   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

and when you fill the thing back up do so slowly, dont let the coolant/water just slosh into the coolant bottle pore it in slowly as this will help reduce any air in the system, also when thats done turn the heater fans to hot and full speed, run the car and your a gooden
mg1969
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Registered: 15th Apr 07
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29th Jan 08 at 13:03   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Thanks for the additional tips guys.

Yes, the temp sender unit is lower down so makes sense to drain from there.

Did none of you guys remove the thermostat to flush the engine too? Doesn't sound like its necessary.

I'll try to measure how much coolant comes out, as I want a high percentage of coolant to water when topping back up (hopefully to prevent any further corrosion). This will after all be diluted with what is left in the engine.

By the way, not cheap stuff is it. Vauxhall charged me 26 for 5l.
Kurt
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Registered: 23rd Oct 05
Location: 4 Q All
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29th Jan 08 at 13:12   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

dont use too much coolant though, that can also cause corrosion
mg1969
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Registered: 15th Apr 07
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29th Jan 08 at 13:23   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by Kurt
dont use too much coolant though, that can also cause corrosion


Really, I didnt know that. What would you recommend? Haynes suggests anything between 20% and 52% depending on how low a temp you want to protect against. I was going to aim for the upper limit, but maybe that's a little high?
Kurt
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Registered: 23rd Oct 05
Location: 4 Q All
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29th Jan 08 at 13:25   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

well i was always told not to over do it.. haynes know more than me though.. so i imagine 50/50 should be fine

[Edited on 29-01-2008 by Kurt]

just quickly read up on it and yeah 50/50 is usally fine.. but using too much can do all sorts of damage including water pump failure and clogged radiator passages..

[Edited on 29-01-2008 by Kurt]
waters
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Registered: 28th Jan 08
Location: Todmorden, West Yorkshire
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29th Jan 08 at 13:28   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I've just done mine......I used 40 %...and yes it is expensive stuff!
mg1969
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Registered: 15th Apr 07
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29th Jan 08 at 13:28   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

ok cheers Kurt
mg1969
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Registered: 15th Apr 07
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29th Jan 08 at 13:32   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by waters
I've just done mine......I used 40 %...and yes it is expensive stuff!


Did you flush the engine too waters?

And its supposed to last a lifetime from factory! Well at least it should not need changing again
waters
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Registered: 28th Jan 08
Location: Todmorden, West Yorkshire
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29th Jan 08 at 17:16   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

yes mate I flushed all the lot, engine, radiator and removed header tank, put some bleach in it, put cap on and gave a really good shake (block the pipes) and it came up like new.....got all gunk out of system!
mg1969
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Registered: 15th Apr 07
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30th Jan 08 at 13:36   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Bugger! Tried to do this today, and when trying to loosen the fan switch, the threads on either the rad or the switch must have gone as it is spinning in thin air (what would your money be on?). As as a result I cannot get the damn thing off, not helped by the fact that I am using an adjustable wrench and the limited space under there.

I have temporarily tightened it back up, but there is now a slow leak from there. A 28mm deep socket will make life a lot easier so when I get hold of one I will give it another go.

Just hoping I can salvage the situation now without having to buy additional new parts.

 
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