Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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right i know i need to lap the valves back in, i guess stem seals just push fit
and i know how to fir the collets etc
but the bottom end.
i want to fit new bearings, oil pump, arp rod bolts and new piston rings
how do i go about fitting rings? what tools do i need?? and do i have to do anything to the block?
also arp rod bolts.... do i need crank cap arp bolts or will new std do?
ta
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Dave A
USER UNDER INVESTIGATION - DO NOT TRADE
Registered: 10th Dec 03
Location: County Durham
User status: Offline
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bore will need to be measured, checked for roundness and probably bored and honed for the rings. if its ok then it will just need honing.
rings will need piston ring compressor tool. crank will need checking and measuring, possibly reground or polished and bearings supplied to suit.
rod bolts can be re-used on most cars, as can the crank cap bolts. ARP ones are a good investment though.
an accurate torque wrench and all of the torque figures is a must.
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Limecat
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Registered: 25th Jun 05
Location: The Internet
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Use a bit of old ring to clear out the ring lands. Find out what the ring gap should be, slide a piston up the bore and slide a ring down until it is sat ontop of the piston. Use feeler gauges to measure the ring gap and file accordingly.
For the rings I have always put them onto the piston by hand, gently spread them at the ring gap and move them into position. Oil seperator ring goes at the bottom.
You will need to have the bores honed (assuming they are within tollerance?) so use an internal bore mic at 60 degree intervals to measure for wear. You will be most likely to find wear at the base of the bores due to the fact the rods are acting at a tighter angle.
When you are ready to slide them into the bores you will need a piston ring compressor which will pull the rings into the ring lands so that you can slide the piston into the bore.
This is the ring compressor in use, albeit on an R5GTT;
Use of ARP's/standard bolts will depend on what state of tune but for the cost of them it's worth doing, make sure you countersink the end caps though.
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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dammit i thought it was gonna be easy.
the engine runs fine now just smokes a little under accelaration.
all this measuring and stuff is putting me right off 
and countersinking,... that means drilling metal off the engine parts. i dont like the sound of that,
any decent engine builders on the wirral??
i really dont wanna screw this engine up
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Limecat
Banned
Registered: 25th Jun 05
Location: The Internet
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It's not hard, just time consuming to do properly.
The amount you need to countersink the caps is very negligable. It is done because the underside of the heads have a radius on them so it needs countersinking so the underside of the head is taking the load and not the smaller radius.
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Adam-D
Member
Registered: 11th May 02
Location: Cheshire
User status: Offline
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oh and the engine will be running possibly a set of cams, maybee carbs/tb's in the future
so i want a solid base to add onto
it wont go above 140-150bhp
i am pretty good doing stuff my self. but really dont want to cock it up,
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Limecat
Banned
Registered: 25th Jun 05
Location: The Internet
User status: Offline
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Perhaps get something like this as a reference?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Engine-Blueprinting-Racing-and-Building-Manual_W0QQitemZ260206646976QQihZ016QQcategoryZ274QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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