M16KE B
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Registered: 24th Feb 04
Location: Stirling
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How much did it cost, those of you who have had it done, to get your mirrors smoothed in to their bases, Roughly, think i need to get it done or refit the standard mirrors. 
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Robertio_uk
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Registered: 2nd Sep 02
Location: Nottingham
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u mean like this?
cost me about £70 to get it done for both sides
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M16KE B
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Registered: 24th Feb 04
Location: Stirling
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No. the mirror smoothed to the bases not the bases to the door.
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Robertio_uk
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Registered: 2nd Sep 02
Location: Nottingham
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i would say about the same. i would think about £100 for both sides if that cost me £70 for both as not much difference between them
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waynep
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Registered: 20th Apr 02
Location: london
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do it urself p38
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M16KE B
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Registered: 24th Feb 04
Location: Stirling
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by corsa-crazy
do it urself p38
So what do i need to buy? and how is it best done to avoid cracking? wouldnt mind trying it but theres a good chance id fuck it right up. Anything in tutorials / FAQ??
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Icy
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Registered: 31st Jan 01
Location: Edinburgh Drives: Mk3 Golf Gti
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glasgowcorsac off here sold his for £40 
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RichR
Premium Member
Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
User status: Offline
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use P40 to bridge the actual gap - and personally I would use a glass cloth of some sort on the back - just as belt and braces style support - as well as the screws. DOnt allow the P40 to come out of the gap - as its a bastrd to trim down and sand -just leave it a mm below the actual mirro/baseblate connection. The finish with P38 filler - this is easy sand and should allwo u to get a good finish
then its a case of priming and sprayin - remember to use plastic primer tho
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ChazSXi
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Registered: 26th Jan 03
Location: Waterlooville, Hampshire
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Dave on corsa-c is selling them becuase he didnt use them¬ 
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M16KE B
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Registered: 24th Feb 04
Location: Stirling
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Anyone got a contact?
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M16KE B
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Registered: 24th Feb 04
Location: Stirling
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"I would use a glass cloth of some sort on the back" can anyone expand on this- bit of a novice really
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ChazSXi
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Registered: 26th Jan 03
Location: Waterlooville, Hampshire
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by M16KE B
Anyone got a contact?
corsa-c is down atm but when its up i'll get him to drop u a mail
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Drysdale
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Registered: 20th May 04
Location: Milton Keynes
User status: Offline
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I'm also very interested in a decent tutorial on smoothing..im sue a lot of other people would too! Anyone got anything?
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RichR
Premium Member
Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
User status: Offline
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glass fibre cloth - Most peopel assume that fibreglass is that stuff that comes in a tin - the yellow stuff that u mix hardener into (it goes pink) then u spread ti out and it sets - this is only fibreglass filler or P40
fibreglass matt is a cloth of woven or chopped strands bound togetehr - u lay this over what ever u want to "glass together" be this a mould or in this case a mirror - u then spread over a resin and consolidate the fibres (remove air bubbles)
the matt/cloth is directionally stronger than using P40. Most motor factors - think Halfords as well sell glass fibre kits with a 1m roll of chop strand matt, a tin of resin and a hardener (with gloves, paintbrush and lollipop mixing stick incl.) for abotu £10
U get a raneg of cloths and weave patterns - but for what ur doing use chop strand - its easy to use - can get a bti messy- but will fill all gaps suitably
remember tho to leave a gap below the final join line of the mirror and base plate - and finish with P38 - easi-sand filelr - to give a glass textured finish suitable for sanding/prepping and spraying
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RichR
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Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
User status: Offline
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i'll write a proper tutorial one day when Im not knackered; however try this site in the mean time for a few hints and tips
http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/main/
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ed
Member
Registered: 10th Sep 03
User status: Offline
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A few quids...
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RichR
Premium Member
Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
User status: Offline
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see every1 assumes smoothing costs a fortune - with the right knowledge and equipment - it doesnt have to - exactly the same as stuff made in carbon - its an industry con - in the marine industry where everything is glassed or carbon - a compositie of some description - it'd take no tiem and no particularly high cost to smooth in the arches using soemthing liek a tri or quad axial woven fibre - it would never ever crack (except by impact)
grrr just annoys me - theres about £50-£75 worth of materials in a carbon bonnet if that - infact possibly less
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ed
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Registered: 10th Sep 03
User status: Offline
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Yea, materials are cheap  Bit of carbon (only £30-£40 per sqm), bit of resin...
Then you need to find somone who knows how to lay the stuff properly, then you need a big enough autoclave to cure it... It's not easy ya know...
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RichR
Premium Member
Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
User status: Offline
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y do u need to autoclave it??? load of shit - just keep it dry while ti cures - theres no performance from the smoothing hence it doesnt need blasting and to be honest the only autoclave that'd take a car is the F1 teams ones - as for autoclave to take panels and bonnets-Unis got one (Im studying yacht and Powercraft design) and theyre not that rare if u knwo where to look
Its best nto to speak to bodyshops about complex composite issues - ur best finding boat builders or marine based repair shops - there fit out shops are far betetr equipped - and as for experience for what ur talkign abotu - smoothing in arches, wing mirrors etc - it doesnt take a genius-making bonnets isnt all that hard-could teach some1 enough to lay up;consolidate and produce components of reasonable quality in a day
where did u get £30-£40 sq metre for carbon For - thats the price id pay for Pre-Preg carbon (top bollocks pre- impregnated with resin stuff) - i wouldnt pay that for standard bi-axial Carbon off the roll
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RichR
Premium Member
Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
User status: Offline
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My best mate is half way thru producin a 3 wheeled;single seater road legal car (single wheel at the back-motorbike engine driving the rear wheel) and weve just started a PVC cored Carbon Boat 2gether - if it costs us more than £100 I'll be suprised - and it doesnt need autoclaving - its a well funky little thing tho - Its kite powered- like kite surfing but u can sit on it - from the designs and some predictive calculations should be capable of 40 knts - (wind powered speed record is 45 ish)
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RichR
Premium Member
Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
User status: Offline
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resins/catalysts/accelerators are the expensive part
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M16KE B
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Registered: 24th Feb 04
Location: Stirling
User status: Offline
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Thanks mate - thats been very helpful, i shall look into it and post pics of them ion progress when i get my finger out of.....well y'know. Cheers
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RichR
Premium Member
Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
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oh other thing - key the surface - with sand paper - if u dont theres a risk the stuff wont adhere to it - I rebuilt the tail end of a moptorbike the other week; plastic welded a seam then glassed over it -but 4got to key the surface and the glass has peeled off
doesnt take long to do - just take the shine off it
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M16KE B
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Registered: 24th Feb 04
Location: Stirling
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I'll remember that mate, is there something else i should bear in mind while doing it to stop it cracking after week or so? Y'know a techniique to it or something?
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RichR
Premium Member
Registered: 17th Oct 01
Location: Waterhouses, Staffordshire
User status: Offline
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it shouldnt crack as long as u dont knock it -at least dont knock it hard
it shouldnt crack as long as the final skim layer of P38 easi sand filler isnt too deep - no more than 1mm or so - less if poss - its just a finishing filler
also remember to use plastic primer as opposed to normal primer
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