casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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Any links for car body spraying...ie from the rubbing down - priming all the way through to the laquer.
thanks.
i hav googled it few ok rsults but lotta american guff..all help required and grateful for...cheers
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casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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No one?
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3CorsaMeal
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Registered: 11th Apr 02
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http://www.corsasport.co.uk/board/viewthread.php?tid=41365
a breif guide
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CorsAsh
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Registered: 19th Apr 02
Location: Munich
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Its one of those things I think where theres a certain textbook way to do it, but usually people learn by doing, if you get me. Just play about and see what works for you.
The key to the whole thing is not to rush.
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casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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well time is one thing i defintely have. im in no real need of the car at the moment and im fully prepared for the whole rubbing down preparation etc just nede to know the proper sand paper to use the proper primer when to rub when to spray etc
[Edited on 04-05-2005 by casper_ac]
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simonp
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Registered: 12th Jan 01
Location: Portishead Drives:Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo
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Take your time and be diligent and it will be fine.
Hiring out a compressor then. Using celly or 2k?
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casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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to be honest i dont know?whats the difference between cellulose and 2k?
its a standard vauxhall colour too no flip or metal flake or anything
that is why i ned help.
I have a compressor at home but would need to check the ratings and power and pressure of it before is tart. will find these out at weekend and post them up.
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simonp
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Registered: 12th Jan 01
Location: Portishead Drives:Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo
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2k you need to mix a hardener with. It's a better paint and will stick better than Celly. Celly has to be sprayed on a totally clean base. Any slight blemish...silicone under the paint etc, Celly will bubble.
You just need to be careful as you don‘t want the paint to shrivel up and look like a 90 year old's fanjita.
Just need to be a bit more careful with prepping for cellulose that's all. It's a single block paint unlike the 2k stuff.
For 2k, you NEED a respirator. Lots of fumes created with this stuff, but it's also advisable to wear a mask when doing large areas with celly.
Not sure on your compressor. You need to use the pressure as per manufactures paint gun guidelines.
If doing large areas, then it's essential to spay with compressor. Rattle cans give very poor coverage and have a crude spray pattern/nozzle.
You'll get a much better finish with spray gun and will evidently find the need to flat back a lot less if you're good with it.
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casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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oh i was defo going to use my compressor and if its not rite..well i cant use it its as simple as that.
im going to try a panel and take my time to se if i can do it if not well it can be sanded down and sent to a professional.
so im guessing cellulose paint is a better job if the preparation is perfect.would it need to be sanded right back to bare metal yes?
would it react with any filler...dont htink il need much but in case ne wee dinges found
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simonp
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Registered: 12th Jan 01
Location: Portishead Drives:Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo
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Don't have to sand back to bare metal. Depends how old the existing paintwork is. Takes months for paint to cure properly. If the current paint is old, you can flat that back and use as a base to spray on.
Celly shouldn't react with filler if left to dry, but you'll need a primer on the filled areas.
When spraying, hold the nozzle far enough away to prevent runs. Although the feeling is to hold it closer as it looks more shiny. Resist the urge. You can flat it back, then G3 it, then polish afterwards. Concentrate on achieving good/even coverage, not a shine.
You spraying metallic?
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casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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its the vaux smoke grey colour im spraying.
so how far do i have to sand back on the original vaux flame red [now faded pink]
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simonp
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Registered: 12th Jan 01
Location: Portishead Drives:Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo
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That's metallic then. Need to be careful with spray pattern. Pay extra attention with metallic. The particles can fall in a strange way, sometimes appearing darker in patches. So spray at a further distance and very very even strokes.
Don't need to sand back that much really. If you have plenty of spray on top. Sometimes though, the colour underneath can influence the new basecoat. If you have the time and money, I'd try and prime all panels.
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casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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how do u mean prime all panels?
ive plenty of time?
maybe it would be wiser to pay a sprayer but i really do fancy doing as much work as pssible at home
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simonp
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Registered: 12th Jan 01
Location: Portishead Drives:Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo
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Prime the panels...as in rub them down and prime them......
It's not that difficult. 
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casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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ok...its just how far to rub them down im fonsued about sorry for bein a dumbass
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simonp
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Registered: 12th Jan 01
Location: Portishead Drives:Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo
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Narrr, just take the top off the paint. It's only used for the primer or new paint to latch on to.
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BAZ 1256
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Registered: 16th Mar 04
Location: aberdeenshire
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dont use celluloyse apint, its not really used in this dat and age, unless its on an old van or tractor.
use the 2k paint, hardner and thinners.
whats wrong with your exsisting paint work that it needs sprayed??
if you just freshing it up then all you really need is to flatten it down til its matt with a 800 grade wet or dry sandpaper.
if its rust then need sflattened right back with the likes of 180 grade sandpaper, same for if its dented, poss 80 grit if its really bad.
primer would then be flattened down with a 800 wet or dry paper again,to rub out any lines ,etc from the edges or filler marks b4 painting.
thats just a rough idea to get you thinking what you need to do to start with.
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casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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the paint on the top waspowerhosed by the last guy who had it. theres a big scelf off it.
crap pic one : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/casper_ac/IMAG0132.jpg
crap pic two : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/casper_ac/IMAG0131.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/casper_ac/IMAG0137.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/casper_ac/IMAG0136.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/casper_ac/IMAG0135.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/casper_ac/IMAG0133.jpg
just an idea of the damage. plus fancy a colour change.
[Edited on 05-05-2005 by casper_ac]
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casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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thanks for all ur help guys.keep it coming!!
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Fad
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Registered: 1st Feb 01
Location: Dartford Kent Drives: 330cd
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Can you actually get 2k paint mixed by a paint specialist and put into a can or will the hardeners make this diffuclt as i just need to spray a small thing and i dont fancy using cellulose as past experience shows it cracks real easy.
sorry to hijack thread.
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Ant
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Registered: 12th May 02
Location: Hereford and Worcester
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yes you can but yo need to use within 24 hours
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Fad
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Registered: 1st Feb 01
Location: Dartford Kent Drives: 330cd
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quote:
Originally posted by aritchie
yes you can but yo need to use within 24 hours
cheers 
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casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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stop hi jacking my thread lol!
so rub the paint down a bit but still leave some of it on?and then prime it
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CoastalCorsa
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Registered: 7th Jan 05
Location: Lancashire
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yeh u wanna be rubbing the paint down so it is dull [keyed] once you start rubbing down u will notice a difference
my corsa went pink so i had mine resprayed by a garage but all the paint is flakking off ma plastics so i am re doing the whole car ma self my first time aswell
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casper_ac
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Registered: 25th Mar 03
Location: Belfast
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its flippin scary keep me up to date if u find any good tutorials or anything.
gonna start strippin mine all down and out tomorrow!cant wait rite enuf but will brick it when i start actually getin near the psraying stage!
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