Don't do any of the above:o.

Get yourself a matching coloured laminate t bar and cut/plain the back of the bar so that it's flat then stick or pin the bar direct the the laminate.

Depending what flooring your using and door bar and trims are available you can always use an end profile which is a 90 degree thin strip that will just slot down the gap you've left up against the bannister and cover your cut edge :thumbs:

Both of these bars can be stuck with mitre fix for instant fix or silicone with some tape to hold it in place until it's set.

i would do what gary has suggested, and run a bit of chaulk round all the mdf bits and paint it and then slap some beading down to cover up the expansion gap

Chances of removing the balustrade without ruining it are nil, the spindles sit in a groove in the bottom rail and handrail with infills inbetween, you can make out in the pic where they have been pinned in.

The neatest option would be to cut it tight into the bottom rail and put a small bead of sealant on, either white or a colour similar to the flooring., Realistically any timber beading is going to come up over the mould on the bottom rail and leave an unsightly finish unless you have enough room to put something very thin and flat on. If you do cut it in tight remember to leave as big a gap as possible on the opposite side, basic laminate doesn't move much but best not to take the chance.

Can't tell with this monitor or pic the finish on the banister moulding but you may get away with a flat beading stuck to the bottom rail. Still leave your expansion gap etc...

B&Q

Or cut some 18mm MDF pieces to fit in like this....




Could double them up to give you plenty of height. Bit of gloss and youd never know.

You cant cut it tight, as Rich said, it will swell.

Could box in the gaps to raise the base level, like this but on both sides and top...

personally i'd cut it proper tight and panal pin that edge down and then use a flat wood bead or it you get it proper tight used a laminate filler and use it like caulkinng up skirtings

Looks about an inch to me

whats the measurement between the top of the banister and the floor?

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Originally posted by John
Looks like chipboard to me.

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Looks like chipboard to me.

Bannisters don't come apart easily.

If you want a spot on job, remove the bannister completely then do the flooring.

I'd still sand the floorboards, see AKs thread it looks awesome.

quote:

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Originally posted by harrisp

quote:

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Originally posted by Gary
Router on that? Don't be so stupid, have you ever used one?! :lol:

You also have cheap laminate. As do most people.


Sand the floorboards tbh.

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:thumbs:

Andrew chatting shit as usual.

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That probably a bit of trim stuck on so rip it off and just get a new bit once the flooring is done

quote:

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Originally posted by Gary
Router on that? Don't be so stupid, have you ever used one?! :lol:

You also have cheap laminate. As do most people.


Sand the floorboards tbh.

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Router on that? Don't be so stupid, have you ever used one?! :lol:

You also have cheap laminate. As do most people.


Sand the floorboards tbh.

quote:

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Originally posted by IvIarkgraham
bannister off if possible

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bannister off if possible

Actually, laminate dnt normally come higher than carpet unless your using that thick real wood stuff so should be ok.

How thick is your laminate?

Would personally, if it is higher, use a half circle beading, from the laminate to bannister.

Just in the middle of ripping the carpet out of the bedroom and I'm already questioning my abilities to lay this laminate flooring..

How would you guys go about fitting the laminate up to this banister rail? The level of the laminate flooring will undoubtedly come above the level of the beading round the edge of the rail.