havent got as far as doing this yet but its all good info, cheers :thumbs:

Early 1.0 and 1.2 B's had preasure valves at the rear inner nearside sill just behind the fuel tank, if you find one in breakers you can get all pipes valves etc need to swap and do away with compensator valve as if vauxhall made it that way! im using 288 discs up front and 260 discs on rear droped about 40mm all works great!

ahh rite, cheers mate :thumbs:

+rep :thumbs:

all you would do it bolt this block in plate and connect your pipes to it at the front, then ditch the rear valve then you would either extend the existing brake pipes or replace the front to backs running them instead to the flexis rather then the valve

and with that could i do away with the load sensor under the wheel well? also would i need new lines i.e braided ones or such??

yeah if you look just below the battery on the bulkhead on the corsa b you will see the distribution block where the brake lines split up throughout the car, on the non abs corsa c it had the same block but with brake pressure regulators which is what you need instead of the rear bias valve that you have

so on a c do they have bias valves on each side yeah?

the reason i used the corsa c as a example is because it bolts straight in and mounts on perfectly with little fuss

il hopefully be going for 30mm or less drop on the rear so as said, no need to modify it, but i want to cut the wheel well rite out. so it looks like fitting bias valves is my only option isn't it??

cheers for that, and lol, cheers for the u2u :thumbs:

22) There's the small matter of the rear brake compensator to deal with. Now if you've gone for 35 to 40 mm drop, you might not need to modify your compensater. coilovers allow a major drop.

23) parts needed to modify the compensator 2x bolts 100mm, with matching nuts and washers,1 pice of bar big enough diameter for one bolt to pass through, cut the same width as the compensator '' frame'' to brace the assembly, and two extension plates, to elongate the compensator frame - holes drilled after offering the compensator up to judge the extra reach required to hook on the compensator spring.

24) And this is the modified compensator.because the first bolt (the one with the bracing sleeve) still sits in the original elongated slots in the compensator frame, there's still the same adjustment avalible when you get underneath to set it up which is what we'll do now.

25) With the car resting on its wheels reach underneath and hook on the compensator spring first. Make sure the top/front nut and bolt are loose, to give movment in the adjuster frame.

26)Now hook the compensater body over the rear axle, aligning the 2 studs with the holes.....

27) Then fit the nuts from the front, and tighten them up.

28) Set the adjustment (using the sliding frame) so that the spring is only just under tension (no Slack) ....

29) Then tighten the top/front nut and bolt securely. JOB DONE!

[Edited on 17-06-2012 by Jason T]

cheers for the pic jason mate :thumbs:

...but i used to pride myself on my eyesight, now i just feel like an old man reading the paper on a sunday morning haha

you take that pic? if so were you get that info? got a link or out for me?? cheers. appreciate it :thumbs:

hope it helps don't know if you can make the words out.



[Edited on 17-06-2012 by Jason T]

ahh rite, cheers mate

heard they dont have to be from a c. a mates told me that they can come from a non abs fiesta... same sort of work involved in that too?
braided lines a must?


and cheers matt, but drums will suffice for me.

just looking the cheapest but still safe way to do it really

[Edited on 17-06-2012 by Jed D]

I run rear disc's and i've cable tied the bias valve shut, never had them lock up on me, even when stamping on the brakes.

get a hold of 2 brake pressure regulators from a corsa c, the block on the bulk head where the brake pipes split to the different positions on the corsa b can be replaced with the same block from a corsa c(non abs model)

:boggle:

quote:

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Originally posted by Corsa_Sport21
So you keeping this now??

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quote:

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Originally posted by tom_simes
Have you released the sliding bracket where the spring used to attach? If not, it'll still be acting as it did as standard.

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Have you released the sliding bracket where the spring used to attach? If not, it'll still be acting as it did as standard.

So you keeping this now??

cheers jaffa anyone else? :thumbs:

atm the springs currently snapped, i just noticed the other day when doing the handbrake cables. so iv just done what my mate said and left it pointing down without the spring. still locks the rear wheels under very hard breaking though
MOT wont be an issue btw

[Edited on 16-06-2012 by Jed D]

sure you can, 1.2's dont even have one so there must be a way?

aye i know mate. front brakes will be getting upgraded at some point but im not sure if i could just do away with the valve or what else is involved

sounds as if its deffo not right that mate ive never locked my rear up its always the front that locks, very easy now with the v6 brakes on :lol:

the thing with the spring under the wheel well...

how do i do away with this please? safely!

also some info on it purpose would be a help...

a friend said to me your supposed to remove the spring on it and have it pointing down if the cars lowered but when i brake hard the rear wheels lock before the fronts as if its not balanced rite. iv just done both the handbrake cables and gave the drums/shoes a really good clean up and its bang on but surely it shouldn't lock before the front under hard braking...
whats my alternatives as il be removing the wheel well all together