Loosen wheel bolts on the rear of the car.
Jackup the rear and secure on axle stands.
Remove the wheel bolts, and then the road wheels.
Remove the bearing centrecap using a flatblade screw driver, and then using pliers remove the split pin holding the castle nut in place.
Remove the castle nut using a suitable sized socket.
Remove all loose parts of the bearing including the retaining ring and keep safe, remembering what order they fit together in.
Fully loosen the handbrake (release the lever as if to drive), and then remove the drums.
Now underneath the car, above the rear beam is the join between the two cables, where a threaded part of one cable passes through a threaded nut on the end of the other cable.
Undo this completely, and then follow the cable forward on the car, where it needs to be released from the S-clip.
Release the cables from any cable clips holding it up off the road surface, and the guides on the rear beam, which can be quite tough.
Finally, using long nose pliers, remove the circlip holding the collar of the cable into the drum backing plate, and then remove from the hook on the brake shoe.
Fitting is a complete reverse of this procedure, but please try to use copper grease or similar on the guides, as this is a very common place for the cables to fray.
Also, when doing up the bearing retaining castle nut, do it up to hand tight, then a bit more (about 180 degrees) using the socket, then slowly release it until you are able move the locking washer behind it slightly.
Finally, you should use the adjuster above the rear beam to make the handbrake handle only rise about 4-6 clicks when fully and securely engaged.
Make sure the cables are in the guides correctly, as if not they won't release, I had this issue and took me a couple of minutes to figure it out!
Hope that is all, its a very simple procedure to be honest, I replaced both cables in about 40 minutes for my MOT, and that included fighting with a sticking drum for about 10 minutes!
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