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oztek corsa

posted on 29th Sep 04 at 16:39

spoke to the shop and they said its under a years warrenty so send it bk to them n theyll either fix it or replace it. whats the reason for it doing this? is it something ive done or is it a faulty amp?


Richie

posted on 28th Sep 04 at 15:28

That looks like an ongoing fault thats got worse and gone pop :(

Looks like PCB track burning, i had a quote for my Vibe VP4 and it was £190!!! It was well and truley crispy. Got a new amp instead.


oztek astra

posted on 26th Sep 04 at 16:28

ive had the back off the amp and there connections running down both sides of the amp and half of them are all black and burnt. when it started smoking all i did was turn the remote lead on, didnt even have any music playing. ive had this setup like this for a couple of weeks running fine. owell il jus have to see what they say, wether they can fix it or not?


Dom

posted on 26th Sep 04 at 14:02

quote:
Originally posted by Richie
doesnt fall within the lines of his question tho :lol:

Best way to get smoothness of operation? Is to wire the remote trigger directly to the ignition live instead, works exactly the same in most aspects. Id rather do that than send my unit off and be without it for a few weeks :lol:

now ssh :P i am king round ere :P


:lol::lol: good point lad bout igniton, never thought ouf that :lol:

as for the smoking amp, aye it could be anything, although it might be worth check connections (shorts etc) to see if it isnt anything to do with the wiring :thumbs:


Richie

posted on 26th Sep 04 at 12:39

The smoking may not even be due to the remote.

Some amps dont want anymore than 500mA, there a few things involved but most people are ok :)


oztek astra

posted on 26th Sep 04 at 11:42

ive done this but directed say not to do it, but the shop i bought the amp from said to do it. but now the amps gotta go back as ive had a slight smoking coming from the amp. oops! owell il jus have to see if they can fix it! lol so b4 anyone does this read your manual 1st!


broster

posted on 26th Sep 04 at 08:40

when i wired up an amp to my mates shit old head unit for fun, we used an ignition live to power it up so it only came on when ignition was on..


Richie

posted on 26th Sep 04 at 01:59

doesnt fall within the lines of his question tho :lol:

Best way to get smoothness of operation? Is to wire the remote trigger directly to the ignition live instead, works exactly the same in most aspects. Id rather do that than send my unit off and be without it for a few weeks :lol:

now ssh :P i am king round ere :P


Dom

posted on 26th Sep 04 at 01:43

quote:
Originally posted by Richie
But what if the remote output had blown altogether on the headunit? What trigger could you use? You wouldnt have one, so that may be his only option.

Whats the point of telling him to wire his remote trigger to a relay ect when you dont know if its going to work due to a naff remote trigger, when you know a switch will defo work anyway?

:P

thats why DVMs were invented :lol: a quick check, buzzing it out with ground and it will tell you whether it works or not ;) plus if it is fubar'd then he should get it replaced on warranty (if its newish / within warranty times etc).
Plus i was thinking of "smoothness" operation, rathing than having to flick a switch etc etc :thumbs:


Richie

posted on 26th Sep 04 at 01:01

But what if the remote output had blown altogether on the headunit? What trigger could you use? You wouldnt have one, so that may be his only option.

Whats the point of telling him to wire his remote trigger to a relay ect when you dont know if its going to work due to a naff remote trigger, when you know a switch will defo work anyway?

:P


Dom

posted on 25th Sep 04 at 21:39

quote:
Originally posted by Richie
quote:
my terminal wire is connected to a fuse then to the permenant live as my head unit wouldn't power the amp for some reason




well use a relay then :P doesnt take a genius to work that one out and saves having to flick a switch, plus its future proof if you want to install other amps :thumbs:


boyracer2002

posted on 24th Sep 04 at 23:25

i put a big battery key on mine :lol: put it on the main live wire running into the amps works well cant be arsed sending the amp back so did this :D


Richie

posted on 24th Sep 04 at 23:02

if you try to power more than one amp it may have problems depending on the remote lead. Either that or you headunits remote was already using too much of its mA current to power an electric aerial/aerial booster ect. Its a pisser on some corsa's :lol:

Easiest way to get around it for more than one amp is to use a 5a or 10a relay and connect the remote trigger and a permanent live to it, but im going technical now :lol:


oztek astra

posted on 24th Sep 04 at 21:03

Yeah i had the same problem richie, headunit would power my kenwood 750 but not my directed 2400d. weird? does ne1 no why this is?


Daniel_Corsa

posted on 24th Sep 04 at 13:33

cheers.... Richie

Just wired a switch onto this now and works fine :D

now somewhere for the switch to go hmmmm hehe ash tray me thinks

cheers :thumbs:


Richie

posted on 24th Sep 04 at 13:00

quote:
my terminal wire is connected to a fuse then to the permenant live as my head unit wouldn't power the amp for some reason


Dom

posted on 24th Sep 04 at 11:44

surely just wire the remote lead to your head units remote lead / automatic aerial connection :boggle:


Richie

posted on 23rd Sep 04 at 17:01

On the REMOTE wire, fit a switch.


Daniel_Corsa

posted on 23rd Sep 04 at 16:12

Is it possible to put a switch on my amp cable as it keeps draining my battery, (runing permenant live of battery)

Would i be able to cut the power cable and put a switch on this so when not using it switch my amp off!

my terminal wire is connected to a fuse then to the permenant live as my head unit wouldn't power the amp for some reason

Just sick of going to the car in the morning and having to jump start or charge battery