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Author Sump change
J-Dog
Member

Registered: 5th Jun 08
User status: Offline
8th Jan 09 at 20:54   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Hey

Im gona be changing my sump this weekend. Anybody got any useful tips from previous experience?

Cheers



[Edited on 08-01-2009 by J-Dog]

[Edited on 08-01-2009 by J-Dog]
Joe
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Registered: 20th Jun 04
Location: Hesketh Bank, Lancashire
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8th Jan 09 at 20:57   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Drain the oil first.
Jakey
Premium Member

Registered: 4th Jun 07
Location: Sandbach
User status: Offline
8th Jan 09 at 20:57   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Drain the oil.
Jakey
Premium Member

Registered: 4th Jun 07
Location: Sandbach
User status: Offline
8th Jan 09 at 20:57   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

FFS Joe, its a good job your sexy.
thegsi
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Registered: 3rd Feb 07
Location: Kidderminster Drives: Evo (you can't afford one)
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8th Jan 09 at 20:58   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Cross tighten the bolts and don't over tighten them.
Jordan C
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Registered: 3rd Dec 07
Location: Dundee City Drives: Valver Corsa
User status: Offline
8th Jan 09 at 21:00   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Bring a chisel and hammer as it may be stuck on like fcuk!
Rainey
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Registered: 30th Dec 07
Location: Scarborough
User status: Offline
8th Jan 09 at 21:01   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Dont try ripping it off before you've undone the internal bolts... lol.. as we found out the 1st time ha
mattyross
Member

Registered: 22nd Dec 05
Location: lincolnshire Drives: 1997 C12NZ
User status: Offline
8th Jan 09 at 21:09   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

wallpaper/ paint stripping hardware tools were essential whilst i was changing mine.
despite removing all bolts, the cork gasket was effectively welded to the block.

the thin yet flat tools made a neat job of penetrating and levering the gasket and sump free-
you will find that a flat bladed screwdriver will run the risk of damaging the block flange.
Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
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8th Jan 09 at 21:11   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

make sure you clean both surfaces before re-fitting
mattyross
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Registered: 22nd Dec 05
Location: lincolnshire Drives: 1997 C12NZ
User status: Offline
8th Jan 09 at 21:17   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

i took photographs that may help you for reference. C12NZ




note nic barnes' statement; throughly clean flange mating surfaces before re-fitting.
J-Dog
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Registered: 5th Jun 08
User status: Offline
8th Jan 09 at 21:19   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

did you have to remove exhaust system from manifold to remove sump?
mattyross
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Registered: 22nd Dec 05
Location: lincolnshire Drives: 1997 C12NZ
User status: Offline
8th Jan 09 at 21:26   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by J-Dog
did you have to remove exhaust system from manifold to remove sump?


i had to detatch the downpipe from the base of the manifold in order to drop the system for clearance and access.
i wasn;t comfortable doing that at first, but i saturated the two rusty bolts with warm WD40 before removal.

another point whilst i remember,
upon purchasing a new cork sump gasket- certain brands feature metal ringlets around the bolt holes (to prevent over tightening), while others do not.
my gasket did not have the metal ringlets, therefore i insisted upon using a torque wrench to re-fit the bolts.

re-fit the bolts using a logical, symmetrical sequence. it;s a total pain.
J-Dog
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Registered: 5th Jun 08
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8th Jan 09 at 21:41   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

cool thanks for that
i have just sprayed some wd40 on now to let it work its magic
Did you also use loctite for the bolts when re-fitting?
mattyross
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Registered: 22nd Dec 05
Location: lincolnshire Drives: 1997 C12NZ
User status: Offline
8th Jan 09 at 21:49   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by J-Dog
cool thanks for that
i have just sprayed some wd40 on now to let it work its magic
Did you also use loctite for the bolts when re-fitting?


that;s a good start mate.
i sprayed even more oil onto the bolts and warmed them up by running the car at idle for two to three minutes before starting work.
the oil will smoke slightly as it soaks in and burns lightly- ensure that your bonnet is open.

a slightly warm engine will assist with draining of the oil and loosening of the exhaust bolts.
hope this helps you.

yes thread lock is a wise idea, but use it sparingly on the bolt threads!
it will come to aid when locating and grasping the bolts into upside position..

[Edited on 08-01-2009 by mattyross]

[Edited on 08-01-2009 by mattyross]
J-Dog
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Registered: 5th Jun 08
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8th Jan 09 at 21:53   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

cool thats brilliant
thanks for all the help
should be have fun this weekend ha ha
Stoneyginger
Premium Member

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Registered: 25th Jan 01
Location: Stonehaven, Aberdeenshire
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8th Jan 09 at 22:10   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

what engine do you have?
J-Dog
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Registered: 5th Jun 08
User status: Offline
8th Jan 09 at 22:16   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

its only a 1.2

 
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