DYL
Member
Registered: 19th May 06
Location: CAERNARFON
User status: Offline
|
It will be time to "run in" my engine.....
It was rebuilt about a month ago......and im just finishing to connect everything up.......alternator....starter.....water pump.....plugs.....leads etc.
Anyway, i am going to ask our mechanic to sort the timming out, becuase i dont want to f**k anything up. But when it's time to start up.......how/ how long do i need to run it in for?
Since it will need an MOT, and the rally is in September.
 
|
binner
Member
Registered: 20th Jan 08
Location: west yorkshire
User status: Offline
|
iv recently had a full recon fitted, they advised the following, run very steady for 500 mile then change oil and filter. then run to around 2000 mile steady ( by that i mean dont rev over 3000rpm or so) then after 2000 mile, full service and it should be ok, but dont go red lining all the time, steady away gradualy building it up till its done around 3000 mile
|
DYL
Member
Registered: 19th May 06
Location: CAERNARFON
User status: Offline
|
3000 miles?
Its going to be hard not going over 3000rpm.
Will it be ok for the MOT? Take it the emissions will be fine
|
Fro
Member
Registered: 20th Jun 06
Location: Rainham, Essex Drives: A3 2.0TDi Sport
User status: Offline
|
They'll be reving it more than3k i think for the emissions.
|
Colin
Member
Registered: 4th Apr 02
User status: Offline
|
Just take it easy for 1000 miles or so!
|
DYL
Member
Registered: 19th May 06
Location: CAERNARFON
User status: Offline
|
quote:
Originally posted by fro-dizzle
They'll be reving it more than3k i think for the emissions.
ye thats what i was thinking....
i just dont want to f**k it up and having to rebuild it all again.
It will be hard not reving it though..... 
|
Cheese Man Chris
Member
Registered: 25th Sep 07
Location: Leeds Drives:1.2 Merit
User status: Offline
|
I remember reading some sort of book thing,
And there is a massive argument about how you are ment to run an engine in. And this guy was saying its better to thrash it.
I also recall my dad saying an engine needs a good thrashing when new piston rings etc are fitted...
I would trash it if i was you (When i mean thrash, i dont mean crazy chav style, just give it some, and not grandmar style)
|
Baskey
Member
Registered: 31st May 06
User status: Offline
|
what engine is it, will you need to re-touque the head?
|
DYL
Member
Registered: 19th May 06
Location: CAERNARFON
User status: Offline
|
its the E16SE, dunno :S first ive heard
|
ed
Member
Registered: 10th Sep 03
User status: Offline
|
You don't need to run engines in. Its something from the past that is obsolete.
|
J4M13
Member
Registered: 15th Apr 06
Location: Bacup (Rossendale)
User status: Offline
|
Rag it
|
Tommy L
Member
Registered: 21st Aug 06
Location: Northampton Drives: Audi wagon
User status: Offline
|
Just drive the damn thing
|
Rob E
Member
Registered: 1st Jan 06
Location: Madeley, Stafford....I want to live back in Wales!
User status: Offline
|
easy for 1000 miles, then slowly get more aggressive with it. Have you got adjustable vanier on the cam or is it standard? Piece of piss to time up the 8v engines mate. Line up the cam pulley with the notch ontop of the cambelt casing (little grove) and the crank pulley with the mark at the top of the sump area, Bolt the tensioner on and pull the pin out the tensioner (self tensioning) Just turn the engine over a couple of times using a ratchet. If it locks up you know you have timed it up wrong. If it goes round easily then jobs a goodun
|
d128mat
Member
Registered: 8th Jan 06
User status: Offline
|
i got told no more than 3000rpm for 500 miles the work it up 500rpm every hundred milish or so.... i did 700 miles then started to give it a bit more,
so far so good...
there is a site somewhere that says the harder you drive it the better, but the engine will need rebuilding more frequently (eg rebuild every 5 yr not 7)
|
chris_uk
Premium Member
Registered: 8th Jul 03
User status: Offline
|
you see i was always told the best was yo bed in an engine was pretty much rag it from the start..
|
Ste L
Member
Registered: 3rd Jul 06
Location: Manchester Drives: 106 16v Rallye
User status: Offline
|
quote:
Originally posted by chris_uk
you see i was always told the best was yo bed in an engine was pretty much rag it from the start..
me too, bed's the ring's in better or something..
and if they dont bed in right first time, may aswell start again 
|
chris_uk
Premium Member
Registered: 8th Jul 03
User status: Offline
|
my mates dad who bought one of these
thrashed it on the autobahn about 20 mins from collecting it with 2 miles on the clock
|
ed
Member
Registered: 10th Sep 03
User status: Offline
|
If your car was made in 1930 then you need to bed the engine in. As it has precision manufactured components and honed bores you aren't achieving anything.
|
mikesc20let
Member
Registered: 13th May 08
Location: nottingham
User status: Offline
|
i wud take it steady for abt 500 to 1000 miles as an engine rebuild isnt cheap everyone knows that
|
LeeM
Member
Registered: 26th Sep 05
Location: Liverpool
User status: Offline
|
i'd probably take it easy for about 50 miles, then give it some hard running. might just be in my head but i always think an engine feels like its running much better when its being revved
|
sand-eel
Member
Registered: 15th Mar 07
Location: carluke/braidwood--IRNBRULAND
User status: Offline
|
quote:
Originally posted by chris_uk
my mates dad who bought one of these
thrashed it on the autobahn about 20 mins from collecting it with 2 miles on the clock
porsche engines are run in at the factory
|
sand-eel
Member
Registered: 15th Mar 07
Location: carluke/braidwood--IRNBRULAND
User status: Offline
|
I would change the oil after 100 miles and filter, again change oil at 500 miles without changing the filter and again at 1000 miles and change the filter this time.
|
ed
Member
Registered: 10th Sep 03
User status: Offline
|
But why? What are you achieving? Somone give an answer that isn't 'I read this on the internet'...
|
sand-eel
Member
Registered: 15th Mar 07
Location: carluke/braidwood--IRNBRULAND
User status: Offline
|
well the first oil change gets the bits of crap from the rebuild out.
right when you hone the bores it keeps oil stuck to the sides for better lubrication and also gives a sort of "sandpaper" finish to slowly grind the piston rings down so they fit flush with the bores, you have to get the piston rigs sitting flush before the bores get too smooth to grind down the rings, so don't give it death no because they won't have time to sit properly but also don't drive like a granny because they won't get ground down enough to sit flush.
|
ed
Member
Registered: 10th Sep 03
User status: Offline
|
You should have built the engine in a clean enviroment. If there is crap in the engine from the re-build then you have failed.
The bores have been honed so you don't need to run them in. In the old days you had to run the engine in because you needed the right ammount of polishing and scraping on them. To little revs and you'd polish the bores which would lead to overheating. Too many revs and you'd over scrape the bores and it would burn oil. Piston rings made to very high tolerences and having a considerbly better design along with honing mean that the bores don't need to be run in at all.
Also, to people who think that an oil change needs to be done after fitting new rings to remove metal particals, what rings are you using that causes that. OE spec rings don't need an oil change 100 miles after fitting.
And to people who think that bearing cases need to be run in. Your con-rods and crank shaft don't even sit on the bearing cases. If they did then they would be sitting on high quality cartridge bearings. Your crankshaft and conrods sit on a film of high pressure oil. The only time you get contact is when there is low oil pressure, or your bearings are fucked from not being made/fitted properly.
|
