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Author Fit a Powerbox
Warren G
Member

Registered: 14th May 06
Location: Kent
User status: Offline
26th May 07 at 22:54   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

How to fit a Power box inlet manifold for 1.4 & 1.6 16v (x14xe/x16xe) engines

Parts Required

Corsa 1.2 8v intake pipe
Servo vacuum hose
Jubilee clips
Vacuum hoses
T piece
Upper inlet manifold gasket
Throttle body gasket
Carb cleaner
EGR blanking plate (optional)
Drill bit/Drill
Rag
Electrical Tape
Spare bolts/nuts

Tools Needed

Normal sockets – 8mm 10mm 13mm
Torx sockets - T30 E8
Allen key sockets – 5mm
Spanners – 10mm 17mm 19mm
Flat/phiphs screw drivers
Hose clip pliers
Side cutters
File’s
Hack saw

Bring the car into a good clean area to begin work



Undo/remove batter terminals (10mm spanner)
Undo battery support bracket (13mm socket) and remove battery
Undo brake servo pipe (attaches to upper inlet)(19mm spanner)
Undo MAP sensor plug (by coolant bottle)
Undo earth wire (on same loom as MAP sensor plug) (10mm socket)



Undo MAP sensor plastic nuts(10mm spanner) then remove sensor with vac hose
Undo coolant bottle plastic nuts (10mm spanner) then move coolant bottle away
Undo Tank vent switch, and remove the vac hose that comes from back of engine (bolted onto right hand side of upper inlet manifold) (E8 socket)



Undo the 7 upper inlet manifold bolts (10mm socket)
Undo rocker cover to upper inlet vac hose (Philips screw driver)



Undo vac hose off FPR
Use hose clip pliers on the hose clips which attach the rubber hose from the throttle body to the upper inlet, and lift the inlet manifold up square (may require two people)
Put rag in inlet ports to stop crap falling down



Undo 4 throttle body bolts (t30 socket) note how dirty throttle body is
Undo wiring loom bolt (10mm socket)
Undo Earth wire off throttle body adaptor plate (10mm socket)



Remove coolant bottle (hose clip pliers)



Remove breather hose off intake pipe and put out of the way
Undo clip throttle body cable (just slides out)
Undo jubilee clip holding intake pipe onto throttle body (screw driver, as shown in pic)
Undo plug IAC & TPS plugs on the throttle body
Undo the coolant two coolant pipes on the throttle body
Remove throttle body from car



Unbolt the fuel lines (17mm & 19mm spanners)
At the back of the inlet manifold there is a bracket bolted onto it, unclip all plugs off it
Remove this bracket(get a ¼ drive with a t30 bit to undo, bit fiddly)
Now the wiring loom should be able to be pulled over to allow a clear working area (might have to undo a few more plugs) and cable tie back



Remove EGR valve (bottom right of lower inlet manifold) (t45 socket, might have to use a UJ to get to back bolt)
Now HACK SAW the plastic inlet pipe as close to the inlet as possible, and at the other end near the air temp sensor (this is because it is impossible to remove otherwise without undo the lower inlet!!!, due having a L shape plastic piece coming off this pipe) unless you have a c16xe/early x16xe inlet pipe, with just slides out





Now the wiring part, get hold of the EGR/TPS/IAC loom, pull the EGR plug out of the plastic casing as far as it will go, then wrap electrical tape around the EGR wires, simple as that! Then just move the IAC/TPS loom over by the alternator



Now either refit the EGR valve or fit the blanking plate (optional)
Remove throttle body support/adaptor (E8 socket)



Fit the Throttle body blanking plate (I modified the original part and used a piece of tin as a blanking gasket)



Parts removed



Time to clean the throttle body up. (TIP – remove IAC valve while cleaning due to the carb cleaner seems to affect them, and always get cars coming back after a month or so with idling problems after throttle body’sve been cleaned) you can use a scotch pad, tooth brush etc etc
Also remove one of the brass pipes on the throttle body, and use it to attach the two pipes you removed off the throttle body to make one



Now you have to drill the thread out of the throttle body bolt holes ONLY THREE, because the powerbox uses studs
And file part of the throttle body to be able to use a 10mm nut (you will see when trying to fit)
NOTE - do this before cleaning the throttle body, and make sure no filings are there



Attach the throttle body to the powerbox, don’t forget the gasket
Screw in ONE stud through the back side (this is why you only drill three threads out)



Move the wiring loom back over the inlet
Undo the alternator/earths stud, and replace with a normal nut (original will hit throttle body)
Remove rag from inlet manifold
Offer powerbox up to holes, don’t forget the gasket
Position servo pipe/throttle cable/loom and make sure its not going to be trapped
Bolt the power box down, making sure the gasket is on correct





Next get your new brake servo pipe, offer up and mark for cutting to correct size
Attach throttle body cable (make sure there’s slack on the cable)



Reattach fuel lines
Find a place for the tank vent switch (fits nicely on the modified throttle body blanking plate I made)
Also take the earth that was attached to the throttle body adaptor plate and fix it to the blacking plate too
Plug plugs back in



Put brake servo pipe on, secure with jubilee clips
Note where I have fixed the EGR valve (even through I have blanked it off, I’ve still got it plugged in to stop the EML coming on)



Refit coolant bottle back in, reattach pipes and refit the plastic nuts
Refit MAP sensor, refit plastic nuts, and plug
Fit a Vac hose from powerbox outlet to MAP sensor
Attach a filter to rocker cover breather (the pipe that used to go to the plastic intake pipe)



Reattach Battery, and support, tighten termals
Fit a intake pipe from airbox to throttle body (use one off Caviler 1.7 TD)
And fit the air temp sensor into the intake pipe



Vacuum hoses – Take a vac hose off the one way valve fitted to the brake servo pipe, T piece it, send one vac hose to the FPR and the other to the tank vent switch and leave the the rocker cover breather to vent to atmosphere



Job done.

When you start up, allow the car to idle for a minute or two, it may idle ruff, but this should clear, its just the ECU readjusting / resetting its self.



[Edited on 24-07-2008 by warren.g]

[Edited on 29-02-2012 by Ian]

 
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