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Author Rebuilding the C16XE
Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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18th Feb 05 at 17:38   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

GSi failed the MOT the other day on emissions and is using lots of oil and was smoking etc. so I'm going to rebuild it.

I'm thinking while its in bits I may as well do a bit, cams, inlet possibly? Not too clear on what routes to take if I'm honest, ideal thing would be to TB it but that will certainly be top end of the price bracket!

Insurance have already laughed me out of dropping the valver in and I'd like to keep that policy as its got some nice free second car NCB and is cheap anyway.
AK
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Registered: 5th Jul 00
Location: Aberdeen City
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18th Feb 05 at 17:43   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote


rebuild with uprated ...

rod bolts
idlers
valve springs
valve caps/seats
new stem seals
Cam verniers

re-bore out by+ 0.5mm if needed and fit pocketed pistons, new rings obv too...

then start with 264deg cams...

that will leave you with a solid block/head to take down the TB route as/or if you want

do the usual crank shit when its out, lightened/balance, knife edged

use a unichip to map, or go for MBE / DTA if your flush

[Edited on 18-02-2005 by Adam Kindness]
jr
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Registered: 20th May 02
Location: Kent
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18th Feb 05 at 17:44   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

proberly worth it

personally i would do polished, ported and flowed head

256/264 degree cams

ARP'S

hardend springs and caps

mantzel if you can find one

nice gains with for not alot of £

[Edited on 18-02-2005 by jr]
Joff
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Registered: 17th Oct 00
Location: Cambridgeshire
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18th Feb 05 at 18:14   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Bigger throttle body and funky inlet manifold.
Andy
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Registered: 28th Dec 99
Location: Cumbria, UK
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18th Feb 05 at 19:17   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by jr
proberly worth it

personally i would do polished, ported and flowed head

256/264 degree cams

ARP'S

hardend springs and caps

mantzel if you can find one

nice gains with for not alot of £

[Edited on 18-02-2005 by jr]


Yes - I agree. Porting and flowing the head will make a big difference. You might as well up the compression ratio while you've got the head off. 11.5 to one plus a bit of mapping with a Unichip will increase torque nicely. Would worry about valve train gear or pistons unless you put wild cams in. The standard rods and pistons and valve train are good for 7750rpm - just make sure you use SBD's metal belt tensioner and good rod bolts. Mantzel and decent exhaust manifiold would top it off nicely.

I've just cracked open my C16XE donor engine for the rebuild. Bought it for £180 cos the guy said it was burning oil. It's in wonderful nick inside - all it would have needed was new oil control rings. So you may find you can sort yourself a nice engine spec for minimal wonga
Ian
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Registered: 28th Aug 99
Location: Liverpool
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18th Feb 05 at 19:21   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

How do I increase compression ratio? And how to measure the change?

[Edited on 18-02-2005 by Ian]
broster
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Registered: 6th Dec 02
Location: Drives: E39
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18th Feb 05 at 19:22   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

skim the head to raise compression.
Andy
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Registered: 28th Dec 99
Location: Cumbria, UK
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18th Feb 05 at 19:27   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

You can either calculate how much to skim off (though it's a bit of a chin on with burettes and the like) by taking actual measurements, or better still, talk to an engine builder who's familiar with the engine and who can advise you how much to skim off for a given increase in compression

 
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