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Author Machine Polishers
Greasemonkey
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Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
19th Mar 09 at 21:42   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

If you want to get into really tight spots get a 3.5" backing plate and use Spot pads. So much better but remember a smaller pad will concentrate the heat/compound and pressure point so you have to be a bit more careful.
Once you do your first 50/50 on a panel you will never go back, the difference is HUGE, you get a perfect glass like reflection, true colour reflection and the flake in the paint will stand out like never before, you should clay the car before machine polishing then after correction is achieved with the rotary or DA apply a good glaze and wax, Poor Boys Nattys paste is cheap and the best of the cheap waxs, next up the dodo juice then Swissvaux etc you can pay up to £1500 for a good wax but the ones in the £30-60 range are perfectly fine, i use Dodo Juice blue velvet on my black paintwork then use Zaino final touch to seal it all.
Detailing a car can become obsessive, washing your car in the usual way will scratch it so once the detail bug bites you will be buying, lambs wool wash mits, pressure washers, snow foam and foam lance etc with the goal being minimal contact cleaning of the paintwork A perfectly detailied black car will refect so much of its surrounding that its hard to tell what colour it is from some angles

[Edited on 19-03-2009 by Greasemonkey]
BarnshaW
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Registered: 25th Oct 06
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19th Mar 09 at 22:02   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

this is not just any car detail, this is greasemonkeys swissvaux 3.5" backing plate true colour lambs wool detail.
Greasemonkey
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Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
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19th Mar 09 at 22:21   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Simply the best :-)
John
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Registered: 30th Jun 03
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19th Mar 09 at 22:22   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I'd say collinite 476s was the best of the cheap waxes tbh.

Washing your car in the usual way won't scratch it if it's waxed and you use a sponge that's not been dragged across the garage floor.
Greasemonkey
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Registered: 17th Apr 02
Location: Drives a Tractor
User status: Offline
19th Mar 09 at 23:13   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

You have to put down 2 layer of 476 though, which can be time consuming. The other harder waxes are simpler to apply. BUT the 476 is very good i agree. I just thought that for someone trying detailing out for a first time, applying 2 layers of wax might be a bit much and put them off.
When you wash your car the grit off the paint work and door shuts etc actually sits in the top layer of the sponge and as you drag it across the paintwork it scratches it lightly, this is what swirl marks are, 99% of car have them, but you can prevent them or limit the amount of them by the method you use to wash a car. When you correct the paintwork the most of the defect you are removing are caused by washing your car.
A lambs wool mitt allows dirt and grit to staight away go deep into the pile of the mitt and away from the surface of the paintwork. Obviously was the mitt thoroughly after every wash.
trust me last weekend after removing all the blue tape from the plastics i quickly gave the bonnet one last buff, picked up a grain of grit from the washer jet and caused really bad scratches to the bonnet causing me to re correct the paint, its easily done unfortunately.

My biggest tips are
1. Dont EVER use a car wash
2. Dont EVER pay the kosovans to wash you car
3. Always use the 2 bucket method
4. Sponges are best put in the bin.



[Edited on 19-03-2009 by Greasemonkey]
John
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Registered: 30th Jun 03
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19th Mar 09 at 23:26   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

So what about the guys that have went back from mitts to sponges because it's made by zymol?

Most of it is a lot of balls.

By all means read the forums and get as much information as you can, after that though do what's best for you, not just because somebody else says it's the best.
sand-eel
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Registered: 15th Mar 07
Location: carluke/braidwood--IRNBRULAND
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19th Mar 09 at 23:28   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

there is nothing wrong with sponges as long as it hasn't got a load of grit in it.
Nick-S
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Registered: 3rd Mar 04
Location: Leigh. Drives: RS Megane 230 F1 Team R26
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19th Mar 09 at 23:30   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Arnt aplicator pads and polishing pads made of sponge?
mad_mike252
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Registered: 15th Nov 07
Location: Nottinghamshire
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19th Mar 09 at 23:31   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

hi
sand-eel
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Registered: 15th Mar 07
Location: carluke/braidwood--IRNBRULAND
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19th Mar 09 at 23:37   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Rich H
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Registered: 26th Oct 05
Location: West Sussex Drives: E46 M3
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19th Mar 09 at 23:47   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by John
So what about the guys that have went back from mitts to sponges because it's made by zymol?

Most of it is a lot of balls.

By all means read the forums and get as much information as you can, after that though do what's best for you, not just because somebody else says it's the best.


I use mitts some of the time, but usually now Zymol sponges and grit guards. Zymol sponges genuinely are softer sponges than your average, and don't hold grit really at all - if it does pick any up, it's very easy to get rid of unlike some cheaper ones. I certainly didn't buy them for the name, as I don't use any other Zymol products

Machine polisher wise, I cba to pass comment really, I use both dual action and rotary. Both have their uses and suitable times to use in my book

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