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Author Best Air FIlter for c20xe
cunningham
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Registered: 25th May 05
Location: Lochore, Fife
User status: Offline
27th Feb 09 at 12:45   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

nnever once had a issue with my old xe corsa with open filter and never had a problem with the v6 with open filter
Nic Barnes
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Registered: 5th Apr 04
Location: nowhere near ginger people
User status: Offline
27th Feb 09 at 13:03   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by VXR
We're talkiing the difference between quite a few degrees in temperature though.

Heat soak creates the initial loss in power. It makes a vast difference.

Its kinda like 1/4 miles and turbos. People bang on a huge IC to do 1/4 miles...

Its like, heat soak people, your IC isn't going to do a damn thing until 1/2 way down the 1/4 mile. Get a Charge cooler dammit so the charge is already chilled on the line.

Even when you start moving, the air inside the engine bay doesn't go away. Its still very hot air, and an open filter will continue to suck in that hot air and loose power. Sure a closed filter will get warm and hence warm the air inside a little more, but as soon as your moving, fresh cool air enters the chamber and cools the overal filter temperature. The filter won't be as poorley effected. If the owner was really anal, they've put heat wrap on the filter -> Throttle body, to keep the charge temp down to a minimum.

[Edited on 27-02-2009 by VXR]


yeah man it effects it, as heat soak does with anything. its just realistically your never going to notice any improvements in performance. people who say they do i just cant believe it. im talking in terms of a c20xe here not high performance this and that.

i just think people believe too much of what they read on the box, or from the net that cold feed this and that, carbon 200 quid filter is best when in reality, the only difference they will notice over an open cone is the lack of bank balance.
DizzyRebel
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Registered: 2nd Jan 09
Location: Lincoln
User status: Offline
27th Feb 09 at 13:06   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by VXR
We're talkiing the difference between quite a few degrees in temperature though.

Heat soak creates the initial loss in power. It makes a vast difference.

Its kinda like 1/4 miles and turbos. People bang on a huge IC to do 1/4 miles...

Its like, heat soak people, your IC isn't going to do a damn thing until 1/2 way down the 1/4 mile. Get a Charge cooler dammit so the charge is already chilled on the line.

Even when you start moving, the air inside the engine bay doesn't go away. Its still very hot air, and an open filter will continue to suck in that hot air and loose power. Sure a closed filter will get warm and hence warm the air inside a little more, but as soon as your moving, fresh cool air enters the chamber and cools the overal filter temperature. The filter won't be as poorley effected. If the owner was really anal, they've put heat wrap on the filter -> Throttle body, to keep the charge temp down to a minimum.

[Edited on 27-02-2009 by VXR]


If your drag racing a turbo, most of the dedicated racers have n20 jets infront of the coolers that chill it right down

Any serious performance application will have a cold air feed of some sort channeling air towards the filter. But it really is true when your on the move that the cold air displaces the warm air, and it does so quite quickly too. If you wanted it to happen even faster for a true traffic light grand prix you could fit bonnet lifters so the warm air is released even faster.

There may be a degree or 2 difference in intake temperatures at idle, but on the move there wont be any difference at all. if race cars dont use enclosed filters then i wont either...
Daimo B
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Registered: 20th Mar 00
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27th Feb 09 at 13:28   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by Nic Barnes
i just think people believe too much of what they read on the box, or from the net that cold feed this and that, carbon 200 quid filter is best when in reality, the only difference they will notice over an open cone is the lack of bank balance.


Agreed.

Using a normal cone filter, but building your own custom heat box and air feed would be more benficial for 1/10th the cost.
Daimo B
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Registered: 20th Mar 00
User status: Offline
27th Feb 09 at 13:32   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

quote:
Originally posted by DizzyRebel


If your drag racing a turbo, most of the dedicated racers have n20 jets infront of the coolers that chill it right down

Any serious performance does so quite quickly too. If you wanted it to happen even faster for a true traffic light grand prix you could fit bonnet lifters so the warm air is released even faster.

There may be a degree or 2 difference in intake temperatures at idle, but on the move there wont be any difference at all. if race cars dont use enclosed filters then i wont either...


Most dedicated drag racers will have a CC mated to an IC. An IC is totally useless off the line. We're not talking a few degree's, we're talking quite a lot more.
application will have a cold air feed of some sort channeling air towards the filter. But it really is true when your on the move that the cold air displaces the warm air, and it
Especially as Drag Racing is a summer months sport, hence higher air temps. Having a hot engine on the line (cars sit on the line for a few minutes, go leave your car running for a few minutes, then go and open your bonnet and feel the heat come out).

You don't want cool airflow half way down the drag strip, you want it before you've left the line, and the way this is done is with a CC. A few puffs of N20 will only cool the charge for an instant.

RACE cars are different ball game. They are always on the move. U'll also find RACE cars have sealed airboxes, not open cone filters.

Drag racing and RACE cars are two totally different machines and the way the engines run are totally different.

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