AlunJ
Member
Registered: 3rd Apr 07
Location: Newport
User status: Offline
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quote:
Originally posted by Jakey
Cheers Alun, saw that, only bit i understood  .
Lol np, its the only bit I understood when my mate asked me about it lol
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Carl
Member
Registered: 9th May 04
Location: Jimmy Bennett's la la land.
User status: Offline
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As said, I'd avoid the derv doctor, way way overpriced!
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Corsa_Sport21
Member
Registered: 13th Apr 08
Location: Leven, Fife. Drives : 205 GTi
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Dosnt the DD charge like £250 for a dump valve kit that can be had for next to nothing using parts from Maplins and Ebay.lol
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kirx
Member
Registered: 14th Dec 05
Location: Preston,lancashire
User status: Offline
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£120 for stage 1 tune pretty good aswel! my mate spent a fortune there tho hybrid front mount etc..
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Andrew
Member
Registered: 5th May 04
Location: Skoda Octavia Estate, Ford Puma
User status: Offline
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French cars are shite, i will NEVER own another one. Mind due, i said that about Vauxhall 
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WATSON
Member
Registered: 16th Jun 05
Location: Fife, Scotland
User status: Offline
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I found the best site for the dervs was www.pug306.net
Turning the boost and fuel up can be done easy enough if you know what your doing, I had mine running 1.5bar was Smokey as hell the =back of the car had to be washed every time you used the car 
all mine had done to it was,
Fuel and boost wound right up
FMIC
filter
piper cross straight through system
I would advise you not to run 1.5bar though, I ran at 1.5bar knowing it was a ticking time bomb
you will love it once its done, mine sounded crazy on full boost aswell for a derv 
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Jakey
Premium Member
Registered: 4th Jun 07
Location: Sandbach
User status: Offline
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Cheers guys, how much did a FMIC and straight through cost you Watson?
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WATSON
Member
Registered: 16th Jun 05
Location: Fife, Scotland
User status: Offline
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I just used a cossie one and picked up the pipe kit for the 306 from ebay for £70 i think it was.
full system was on the car when i bought it, was looking at getting a free flow system made that was going to set me back £260 i think it was untill i sold the car.
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WATSON
Member
Registered: 16th Jun 05
Location: Fife, Scotland
User status: Offline
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forgot to say im sure i still have the pipe kit in the garage as i took a few things off the car when i sold it, i will be keeping the FMIC as thats going on my mk1 clio turbo but if i find the pipe kit your more than welcome to have it for a few pennys 
[Edited on 27-11-2008 by WATSON]
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d4za
Member
Registered: 18th Oct 06
Location: Bloxwich, West Midlands
User status: Offline
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http://www.pug306.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=27
thats a link to the diesel section over on pug306.net should find plenty of info over there.
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holes_666
Member
Registered: 23rd Aug 08
Location: ammanford, near swansea, wales
User status: Offline
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re-setting the service spanner on phase 2/3 peugeot 306's
With ignition off, press and hold the counter reset button.
Switch ignition on, then you will have a 10 second countdown.
Wait the 10 seconds, then when the zero flashes, let go of the counter reset.
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holes_666
Member
Registered: 23rd Aug 08
Location: ammanford, near swansea, wales
User status: Offline
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incase its of any use to you, max power haynes manual 
http://tomwrote.info/downloads/Haynes%20306%20Max%20Power/
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holes_666
Member
Registered: 23rd Aug 08
Location: ammanford, near swansea, wales
User status: Offline
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This is a guide for fitting a boost gauge. The pictures were taken tonight when i was messing with the car, hence why there's not many of them. Feel free to comment..
1. Find the hose that goes to the front of the intercooler in between the fuel pump and fuel filter housing.
2. Cut this hose anywhere you like, and insert the T-Piece, it may be a good idea to use jubilee clips to make sure you get a nice tight fit to avoid leaks. Then attach the transparent tube to the third part of the T-Piece (you can see what I’m talking about in the picture below).
3. Find a suitable way to run the pipe towards the cabin. I decided to run the pipe along the accelerator cable towards the wiper motor. Cable tie the pipe securely and make sure it doesn’t get snagged on anything. I chose to run the pipe down to the door through the wing as shown in the picture below.
4. Using a screwdriver you can poke a hole through the door seal. This will let you run the pipe through the door without worrying about it getting trapped in the door.
5. Decide where to put your boost gauge and then cut off any extra pipe you don’t need. Make sure you don’t cut off to much though!! Push the pipe on the connector on the back of the boost gauge as tightly as it will go.You may want to use a gauge pod, but I have bodged mine in place using bluetac.
6. If your boost gauge has wiring to the lights, then you will need to read the instructions to see how to wire in. I found the best place to wire to was the car stereo wiring as it has a good earth and live cables as well as a light controlled live. I routed my cable by removing the a pillar trim and running the wire down the door seal and underneath the fusebox. From there you can then push the wiring up to the back of the radio.
7. Take your boost gauge for a test drive and make sure everything works as you want it to!
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holes_666
Member
Registered: 23rd Aug 08
Location: ammanford, near swansea, wales
User status: Offline
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push button start
Firstly, this is what you get in the kit, it cost me about £15 from ebay:
1x Push Button
1x Relay
4x Snap lock connectors
Wires to connect it all
These are the instructions that came with it, blurry though as my camera is poop:
So, installing it all.
Unscrew your steering column shroud, this is held on with 3 torx screws, 2 of them are right barstewards to get out but persistance is key, once thats off you will want to locate the biggest RED wire and the BLUE wire coming from your ignition, these will be just below where you put your key in
you will want to connect pole 87 and pole 30 of the relay to the RED and BLUE wires using whatever method you like (doesnt matter which way round you do this bit), i used the snap lock connectors because its quick and simple:
Next you will need to take the bottom half of your centre console out (the bit with the cig lighter in), you dont NEED to take the whole centre dash bit out with the stereo, but it will make your life easier
so take the nice fascia off, it just pulls off easily, then you will see 2 torx screws holding your clock in. (assuming you have one) disconnect your clock.
Disconnect your cig lighter, just pull the stupid connector off, mine was very stiff. you will then need to remove the cig lighter, theres a small torx screw right inside it that will help dismantle it, frankly it took me about 10 minutes to slip it out of its plastic housing as its clipped into the dash quite firmly.
You will then see you have a YELLOW and a RED wire going into the connector that was on your cig lighter. You must connect pole 85 of the relay to the YELLOW wire. the RED wire must be connected to either terminal on your push button. Again i used some smaller snap lock connectors as this crappy picture shows:
You then have one remaining pole on your relay, number 86, connect this to the remaining terminal on your starter button and thats all your wiring done!
I simply tucked the relay and all the bulk of the wiring up to the left of the steering wheel, none of its visible once you put everything back together
Now be prepared to spend anything from 20 minutes to 4 hours getting that sodding steering column shroud on and 10 seconds putting your clock back in.
This doesnt drain your battery and requires no soldering or wire cutting, you just need a pair of pliers if your going to use snap lock connectors, which i suggest you do
Next up will be where and how i relocated my cig lighter
Disclaimer: i accept no responsibility if you electricute yourself doing this, you are dealing with live wires if your silly enough not to disconnect your battery
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holes_666
Member
Registered: 23rd Aug 08
Location: ammanford, near swansea, wales
User status: Offline
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brakes upgrade
As most of you will probably already know, 283mm gti-6 brakes (57mm piston Lucas callipers) are often used to improve 306 brake setups – and with great effect too!
However here is another option:-
I’ve just fitted 2002> Citroen Xsara (MK2) 2L 16v VTS front calipers to my 306 hdi.
Note, these are not the same as gti-6 calipers (only MK1 Xsara vts 1997 > were fitted with gti-6 Lucas callipers)
They are bosch callipers with a 54mm piston. They are the same calliper as used on 2001> 307 2L hdi 110bhp (also Xsara hdi 110bhp) too.
The disc is also thicker than the gti-6 unit - 26mm as opposed to the gti-6s 22mm. An added bonus is, they are a lot cheaper to buy new than the gti-6 parts!
In order to fit them to a 306, you will need the following parts:
Lh+Rh Bosch calliper (307 or MK2 Xsara vts)
Lh+Rh Bosch yoke (307 or MK2 Xsara vts)
307 discs (283mm dia by 26mm thick by 34mm high)
307 pads (137mm long by 57mm deep by 19 mm thick)
Would also suggest fitting 306 hdi/gti-6 front brake flexi hoses as the new caliper sits a little further away.
So far very impressed, a lot better than stock hdi, not as much modulation (pedal feel) as a gti-6, due to smaller piston size, but the power is as good (as good as the "6" and rallye I’ve driven in my opinion)!
My point is, if you don’t fancy fitting some second hand callipers and can’t stretch to new gti-6 parts, why not try this option, cheaper and very nearly as good (if you can live without some modulation)!
Original 266mm setup:
283mm upgrade (INCORRECT PADS SHOWN IN THIS PICTURE):
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u121/foggy3061/283.jpg
Anyway, here are the genuine Cit/Pug part no's:-
LH Caliper - 4400 N2 - £55 ea +vat
RH Caliper - 4400 N3
LH yoke/carrier - 4404 64 - £22 ea +vat
RH yoke/carrier - 4404 65
As for discs and pads, i just used good quality pattern parts:-
307 2L hdi (110bhp) discs
307 2L hdi (110bhp) pads
All compenents (INCORRECT PADS SHOWN IN THIS PICTURE):
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u121/foggy3061/283components.jpg
callipers
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holes_666
Member
Registered: 23rd Aug 08
Location: ammanford, near swansea, wales
User status: Offline
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blatenly taken from another site, i signed up to this site and payed membership to get to their mod guides, only to swap the car a few weeks later for a c20xe corsa, so more than happy to help with things like this haha, i know you were after tuning mods but its better than nothing lol
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WATSON
Member
Registered: 16th Jun 05
Location: Fife, Scotland
User status: Offline
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That boost fitting guide, i wouldnt go the way they done, theres a small hole on the pass side just below the glove box feed the pipe through that job done plus looks better than going through the door way ect
thats what i done and the boost guage still managed to sit on the drivers side so i could see everything
you can just make out where mine was, where the cd player goes was able to see it with a clear view ect but was a temp place for it untill i got my cd player fitted
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Rich H
Member
Registered: 26th Oct 05
Location: West Sussex Drives: E46 M3
User status: Offline
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My mate made a custom mount for his boost gauge here:
And everybody on Pug306 wanted to know how to do it lol. It did look smart tbf and it lit up orange at night so blended in perfectly.
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Corsa_Sport21
Member
Registered: 13th Apr 08
Location: Leven, Fife. Drives : 205 GTi
User status: Offline
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Didnt know u had managed to fit the FMIC Watson.I thot u were having problems getting pipes.
Im actually surprised that car lasted so long,Broony had it running silly boost for ages via a in-cab boost controller.
Did it ever get the box sorted as last i heard he didnt have 5th gear.
And whats this i hear about u buying that Clio??Your needing to spend the money on your driving test and get that out the way 1st.
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WATSON
Member
Registered: 16th Jun 05
Location: Fife, Scotland
User status: Offline
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Yeah i managed to pick up a pipe kit on ebay for the pug i only had the FMIC on for about two weeks then i sold the car
Yeah box was replaced with another one.
Im shocked at how long the car was running with that amount of boost aswell :O was still going strong when i sold the car on untill the new owner got over to ireland and blow it up
Yeah clio wasnt meant to happen was meant to get my test done before xmas but thats out the window Will just have to wait till after new year ect 
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gazza808
Member
Registered: 30th Jun 08
Location: Peterborough
User status: Offline
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some where over wansford way i think pretty cheap also mate got his set up there.
also another mate had his 205 with 306 lump done there. over 300bhp i think he said with propane injection :O
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