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Originally posted by kangaroojack
right got lots of experience with rc, used to race at nationals level in rally x

first question, turn car upside down and remove the glow plug, there should be a brass washer ther yep ?
yep got one on but will try and add another one if not thatd your problem, if it is there, try adding another brass washer from a spare plug, this will give you the clearence and will also lower the compression which means it will be easier for you to start during run in obviousely take it out and run on single washer once run in. if the problem persists it could just be the pinch of the liner and the sound should start to slowly fade as run in progresses

2) it will hammer through fuel during run in due to how rich it is

you should never run an engine in with the wheels of the ground as it puts no strain on the engine
manual said to do it that way for the first tank so i just followed that

to stop the engine cutting out when breaking you need to reset the throttle arm so it fully closes the carb body when the trigger is in the neutral position, you then alter the idle on the carb not with the trim

dont quite understand how id do this because if i close the carb with the brake then wont it just cut out straigh away? so i wont be able to tell where the best idle part is.

any other questions etc add me on msn or u2u me

ide personaly stop run in as it is and get it on the floor. have a quick search on google for heat cycle method which is best way to run the engine in and should be able to explain better then me on the forum

also i hope you have not let the tank of fuel ran out whilst idling ? makes the engine run very very lean which is bad bad bad
nope oops. so i assume i have to stop it by pinching the fuel pipe to get it to stop?

[Edited on 05-07-2008 by kangaroojack]

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Originally posted by kangaroojack
manual lies run in is the key to the longevity of you engine so make sure you do it right, have a quick search for the heat cycle method and you will realise why it makes sense and why most proper enthusiasts use the method
just reading up on that now only problem is i dont have a temp gauge so dont know how i can do that one

set all the trims on your transmitter to neutral and the take your airfilts off, find out which id the idle scrrew by looking in your manual and you are looking for a 1mm gap between the slide and the body of the carb, you will notice what i mean when you take the filter off, then once run in etc you can just adjust the idle to suit without removing the airfilts
at the moment the throttle trim is set quite high as its the only way it would continue to run . so basically i need to get a 1mm gap on the carb/butterfly thing and go from there?

and to shut the engine properly either put your finger over the tip of the exhaust or tap the fly wheel to stop it, edge of your shoe, yuor thumg if your brave or the handle of a screw driver etc anything that isnt sharp or too hard that it could nok the engine
i read about the fly wheel and a screw driver just imagined that doing more damage. but ill go for the exhaust option i think.

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Originally posted by kangaroojack
dont really need a temp gauge, bit of spit on top of engine n it shud take 3-4 seconds to fizzle away and or hand on top of head and it shouldnt be uncomfortably warm for a few seconds

if you have to whizz your hand straight off then its lean and you need to richen it up a wee bit, saying that temp guns are mucho cheap on ebay now might be worth snatching one for good measure

i thought you would have the trim up high, set it to neutral does that mean just turn it off kind of thing ie as low as it goes? and take the airfilter off and adjust the screw and you will see what i mean about leaving the gap, yeh i know what your on about just not sure which screw as i have 3 and i dont know which does what what is probably happening is that the engine is loading up at idle which means the engine isnt burning all the oil and is geting clogged up with it causing it to stutter and stoip sometimes which is why you increased the trim yep ? not a bad thing just lean the bottom end, usualy change the seting an hour at a time so as if the screw is a clok mover it only 1 hour at a time to prevent any major changes
when you say hour at a time i assume you mean turn it 1/12th of a turn and not every hour

exhaust is easist option, can burn your finger sometimes so use a rag etc i still have a circle scar on my thumb from back i the day

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Originally posted by Matt L
see the first post and look closesly

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Originally posted by Kurt

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Originally posted by Matt L
see the first post and look closesly

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it doesnt say make or model

was merely wondering if its driftable or some 4x4 monstosity

i fancy some rooftop drifting

[Edited on 06-07-2008 by Kurt]

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