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CsK096

posted on 27th Feb 15 at 17:23

Could someone tell me how to wire the fuel pump? I have 1 wire for it and there's 6 going into the pump?


Jamie

posted on 1st Dec 05 at 17:57

Good guide


Rob B

posted on 1st Dec 05 at 17:41

from halfords mate just flexi hose stuff... an yeah its been running for about 3 weeks..


ianofbhills

posted on 1st Dec 05 at 17:17

good work chap does it run yet then?

where did you get the pipe/hose that you have used for the coolant plumbing. rad to thermostat and rad to back of engine?


Rob B

posted on 1st Dec 05 at 16:06

Alternator belt tensioner and lower mount works from a 1.4 16v without PAS or aircon , Confirmed :D


Rileysport

posted on 1st Dec 05 at 12:15

temp gauge in the car may be a black... take some of the black outer off and its blue under that :thumbs:


VegasPhil

posted on 1st Dec 05 at 12:12

Cool :thumbs:


Rob B

posted on 1st Dec 05 at 12:12

Woops ok then, i still dont have one i just duck taped it together :|


RobHayes

posted on 1st Dec 05 at 12:11

if your just fitting a standard engine the air inlet pipe off cav TD isnt necessary :)


Rob B

Icon depicting mood of post posted on 1st Dec 05 at 12:07

Converting a 1.2 16v to a 1.6 16v

Right from all the trouble I had doing my conversion I thought anyone else wanting to do it I would try and make it a tad easier for them.

Right the first thing before anything is to get all the bits your going to need, A LOT.

· You will need a new front left hand side engine mount.
· Inlet pipe from a 1.7 TD CAV
· ECU Transponder and chip for key also the ignition barrel transponder
· Wiring loom
· Manifold’s
· Exhaust system for a 1.6 the 1.2 16v exhaust is all one piece and also a smaller bore
· Radiator from a 1.4/1.6 16v
· Alternator lower bracket for a 1.4 16v without PAS or AirCon
· Tensioner for a 1.4 16v without PAS or Aircon
· Alternator belt for a 1.4 16v without PAS or Aircon

All the above are extremely important and the car will not run properly if any of the above parts are not put in place.

Now the first thing to do is disconnect all the wiring from around the engine and all vacuum hoses so the engine is basically only held in by the engine mounts…

Start off looking like this…


end up looking something along the lines of this … ready to be removed.


Now disconnect the drive shafts then bring the crane over to the engine and use the hook holes on the engine to remove it, ( you don’t have to use this, use any part of the engine just as long as its balanced).
Once this is done remove the engine mount bolts, make sure the crane is securing the engine first.. then slowly lift the engine out.

Big hole…


Engine hanging in mid air ..


Now the old engine is out its time sort out the 1.6 ready to be dropped in, we connected up the wiring loom before the engine was dropped in this made life a lot easier.

Now, everyone says you cant get a 1.6 16v in through the top, Mine did :look: So anyway with a bit of twisting and careful lowering we got the engine on to the mounts and tightened it up, then put the shafts back in, next was to connect up all the vacuum hoses and put the radiator in. After doing this connect all the wires together into there plugs.

Now the engine is in the bay and looking all nice sitting there J




WIRING

The tricky bit, well it was for me not knowing what I’m doing.. basically you have the
Plug from the car loom ( 1.2 16v still) then obviously the new engine loom ( 1.6 16v)
These plugs will NOT just connect together you need to cut each plug And from the 1.2 16v loom you will be left with 12 wires and from the 1.6 16v engine loom left with 9.. see pics below

1.6 plug


1.2 plug


Wires left from the 1.6 engine loom


The wires that will match colour for colour are…

Green/green………. RPM
Red/Red…………… Battery power
Brown white/Brown white …………Diog socket wire
Blue with THIN red/Blue with THIN red…………. Dash
Black/Black ……… 12v Ignition switch
relay in the passenger kick panel.
Brown blue/Brown blue ……… Dash

From the 1.6 plug you are left with three wires..

Red/blue Thick……………. Fuel pump power (needs wiring to the 1.2 16v fuel pump)

Brown Yellow……………. Needs wiring to the diog socket in PIN 6

Blue temp gauge for dash………….Needs wiring to temp gauge I haven’t found the wire yet.

From the 1.2 wire you are then left with…

2 thick blue reds
Brown/Black
Brwon/Red
Brown

Tape these wires up they are not needed.

After doing all this fingers crossed your engine should start, make sure you have oil in the engine and water in the header tank, if it starts up your winning, if not check all things like earths etc first, then check the fuel pump is working and that the engine is starting.

Finished product..with airbox and battery not secured in,… best pic I have



Once its running take it easy and fingers crossed youll have a big smile on your face.

Little diagram of how the 1.4 16v alternator belt and tensioner should be when done Cheers Brad



Problems I had

· Wiring up the fuel pump relay is a pain in the ass K I fortunately new someone who did this part for me as I didn’t know how to find the correct wire.
· Alternator belt was a pain until it was pointed out to me I could use the bracket and the belt and tensioner from a 1.4 16v so that should be solved when its fitted today.
· Exhaust another pain in the arse you need to buy a hole system
· I haven’t yet put the ECU in a suitable place, make sure you extend the wires long enough so you have some room to move it ..
· If your not using the secondry air pump make sure that you still have the switchover plug in..
· Brake servo hose, make sure you get the one from the 1.6 your 1.2 one will not fit, I had to modify some pipe on mine due to having the dblias box.


[Edited on 01-12-2005 by Rob B]