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AK
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 10:53 |
ok, got them upto somewhere between 458Deg and 550Deg
The GREEN paint layer has burnt off. Its quite tricky doing this on a wet cold foggy morning
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Kano
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 09:26 |
quote:
Originally posted by AK
yup, i'm aware of that...
The old discs have one hot spot... just one! (one side of a disc) bizzare
Try not letting the car sitt still for long when u bring it in, just roll it back a bit evry now and then.
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AK
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 09:24 |
yup, i'm aware of that...
The old discs have one hot spot... just one! (one side of a disc) bizzare
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Kano
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 09:08 |
I've tried a few diff ways in the past... never really noticed a huge differenc either way..
If youve done back aswell just remember not to leave your handbrake on at track days etc or sit with your foot on the brake when your stopped because you'll just get hot spots and warp them..
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AK
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 09:04 |
Why bedding?
To transfer a layer of friction material onto the brake disc faces to achieve maximum performance.
To stabilize compressible materials to avoid a spongy pedal.
To boil off volatile elements in the friction compound in order to have the initial ‘green’ fading during bedding and not during the race.
To align the pad surface with the brake disc surface to have full contact.
If pads do not get bedded properly and / or used to hard right out of the box will likely lead to pad glazing. Pad glazing is a condition where the resins in the pad crystallize on both, the pad friction surface and the brake disc surface, resulting in poor stopping performance, brake judder and vibrations.
Also rapidly escaping volatile elements and moisture from the resin would seek an immediate escape route out of the friction compound, creating small fissures that would lead shortly to cracking and chunking.
1.) BASIC BEDDING IN
To initiate some heat in the brake discs and pads.
4 to 6 stops with medium brake pressure from approximately 150 km/h (90 MPH) to approximately 80 km/h (50 MPH).
Distance between each brake stop approximately 300 - 400 meters (300 to 400 yards).
The pads should not reach temperatures above 400° Centigrade (550° Fahrenheit).
No dragging!
Blocking of the air ducts might be helpful to reach appropriate temperatures quicker.
2.) IMMEDIATELY AFTER BASIC BEDDING IN AT HIGH SPEED
Simulating race conditions
One stop with medium to heavy brake pressure, without allowing brakes to lock from approximately 180 km/h (110 MPH) to approximately 80 km/h (50 MPH).
No dragging!
Recovery stops with light brake pressure 3 to 4 times. (Cleaning procedure)
Repeat the high-speed stops including recovery stops 2 to 3 times.
Allow a cool-off distance of approximately 500 m (500 yards) between high-speed stops.
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dhdev
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:56 |
Hence why I said drag to get up to temp and then repeated stops to cycle the temp!?!
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AK
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:53 |
i have to get them up to temps i'll see on track, and cooled down again.... Heat Cycles.
gentle braking will just glaze my pads and THEN cause my discs to warp when i then use them in anger :lol:
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dhdev
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:47 |
Normal bedding in procedure for OE type pads, is repeated gentle stops (0.3g) maintaining disc temperature between 100-150 deg C. Continued for approx 300-500miles dependant on vehicle and no. of applications per mile.
'Racing' pads will have specific bedding in requirements due to the compounds of the pads and their higher temp capabilities. I suggest dragging the brake with your left foot in order to get initial temperatures up high enough (check for people behind as your brake lights will be on, even though your not slowing down) then carry out repeated stops once some temp has been produced.
The aim is to create 100% contact between disc and pad and to boil off the binding material from the pad compound. You should see discolouration of the first few mm of pad once bedded.
[Edited on 22-06-2007 by dhdev]
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Simon L
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:47 |
Up to 20, brake to 5
Up to 30, brake to 5
.... and do on
until up to xxx brake to 5.
Does the manufacturers website not give details on how to bed them in properly?
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sam-smith
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:25 |
lmao. i think AKs gonna be pissed if hes fucked these coloured whatsit majigs
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Dean_W
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:21 |
I did a few slam ons to bed my V6 brakes in. Warped them :|
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Craigos
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:09 |
Bedding in you are meant to drive STEADY for the first few hundred miles.
Brake as much as possible but no hard u will warp your disks. also if you have done the rears i was told to drive round the block with the handbrake on. :o dont know about that one though... :)
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Cupra Steve
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:04 |
quote:
Originally posted by sam-smith
arent you ment to drive carefully for a few 100 miles
:thumbs:
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sam-smith
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:03 |
arent you ment to drive carefully for a few 100 miles
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Behr
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:03 |
you'll warp your disks that way
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Cupra Steve
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:01 |
To bed the brakes in you don't want to be braking hard from 100mph :lol:
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AK
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 08:01 |
i didnt buy them for that.... i opened them and wondered why someone had painted them :lol:
so.... bedding.... tell me
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willay
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 07:59 |
you are so flash :lol:
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AK
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posted on 22nd Jun 07 at 07:59 |
How do you do it?
My new discs have coloured indicators that burn off to a different colour once they have reached that core temp.
Think they go from 300deg to 600deg. I still havent got the low one changed and i did some fairly hard stops with them.
80-10 about 6 times, and afew 100-10's... but i just couldnt get them in quick enough i think
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