,

Im telling you mate the INSTALL is everything in car audio, once the install is as near perfect as you can get only then will you notice the benefits of spending x amounts on youre top-draw speakers. You must make sure that the pods are as airtight as possible and that they use the internal volume of the door as their enclose, that way you can start getting some good midbass out them and start running them down to some silly frequencies without them sound like a soggy fart!
With the correct install and 6 1/2 inch mids i cant see why you cant run them down to 60Hz with 24dB X-overs and plenty of power behind them...:thumbs:

Yeh ive done some door builds not amazing to look at but do the job, cuz ive done the whole door panel with Flashing tape on both skins, then i made the pods which are made out of MDF which is screwed firmly to the door and also used Dynamat extreme and more flashing tape to mould it to the door if you see what i mean!!!!

I do hope that youre going to have builds/sound deadening for them components at £360 otherwise youre weeing a lot of money up a wall m8!:look:

like you could be arsed to type out all that steve! Thats just an excuse!

Yeh cheers Diggidy i will try but im not really good at that end of the ICE, i dont mind building an install or wiring it up but the levels frequencies are not really my thing, but thanks anyway i will give it a go but dont hold any hopes!!!!!

Cheers snowy...

One thing i did forget to mention is to leave the bass till last as this will mask the lower frequency from the comps and allow distortion to be introduced.

best to disconnect the sub untill it's needed. :thumbs:

Well done to Diggidy some top advice. Was gonna post up pretty much the same thing but you beat me to it.

Steve

SOME REAL GOOD ADVICE THERE

Ummmm Ok!!!!! Il have ago at that but i might see if i can con a mate who works for ripspeed and used to work for Sextons into doing it for me!!!!

Level setting, done by ear, is more art than science. Basically you want to start with the first component in the chain (head unit) and work your way to the last component (amplifier).

Start by turning all of the input level adjustment knobs (gain controls) on your components fully counter-clockwise (to their minimum setting). Set the tone controls (bass, treble, loudness) on your head unit to no boost (bass and treble level = 0 and loudness is off). Make sure your fader and balance controls are set to the middle position. If you have more than one RCA pair you will want to set each gain adjustment separately.

Next set all of your equalizers settings (if you have an equalizer) to the center (detent) position so they produce no boost or cut. What we want is as pure a signal as possible.

Put in some good quality source material, preferably a CD with strong output and a clean recording. Hard rock would be a bad choice here. Try something cleaner, maybe acoustic, that you're familiar with.

Turn the headunit's volume up slowly until you begin to hear distortion. When you hear it, stop and back off slightly until you no longer hear it. If you don't hear distortion, even when the volume is all of the way up then you have a quality head unit. That's what we're looking for.

Now with your head unit at maximum undistorted volume move on to the next component.

When you reach the amplifiers you may need to wear earplugs to adjust them to their maximum level. As before, turn up the gain until you hear audible distortion.

That's it. Play some music and verify that everything sounds right. Congratulations! You've just learned to properly adjust the settings on your car audio system.

ive tried setting up my front components myself but just cant seem to get it right, im gonna buy some new Focal Polykevlar Components soon and at £360 i want to get the best out of them!!! Can i simply go to my nearest ICE shop(sextons) and get them to set them up? Or something else!!!!