Just reread it, the light came on and then it cut out, I thought it said, it cuts out then the light comes on.

It comes on to show its working.
Only comes on when engine is running to indicate a fault.

Doesn't the ecu light come on when the ignition is on but the engine off anyway?

Mine does!

For anyone that was wondering it is all fixed now... crank shaft sensor was the culprit

Only works for old faults which have been rectified. New and remaining faults will remain in the ECU memory.

you can clear the codes by turning on and turning off your car 30 times.

Had checked the alternator, and the fuel pump. Fuel Filter was changed not that long ago...

.. anyways, got towed the 40 odd mile or somet journey and it didn't cut out (had it ticking over on tow) went on diagnostic machine and showed a fault with the crank shaft sensor... then drove it all the way home without a problem at all !! Think the b!tch is just being tempramental !!

On a plus note, seen 2 nice corsa's on the way home and a absolutely gorgeous calibra :D:D

Sounds like it could be fuel related - did you change fuel filter? Clogged filters can lead to imtermittent problems. Have you also checked the fuel pump?. Might also be worth checking that the fuel injectors and pressure regulator are functionng correctly too.

fuel starvation? maybe. u say it cuts out after 10 mins, could it be the choke not going in? so it is flooding it or something?

alternator maybe?

Thats wot i done, but didn't flash, took a while for the problem to re-occur too... Its got my head battered, guess its a wait till monday wen it goes on the diagnostic machine and see wot that says

First turn your key to position 2 to check the bulbs workin, turn ignition off, connect the 2 X pins as shown with a bit of wire and turn the ignition back to position 2 and it should start flashing.
Otherwise, aint got a clue soz!!!

Erm... tried this this morning, and it didn't flash at all ?? How do you get it to flash ??

Cheers, BTW mine is the 16 pin diagnostoc port... I have however after a few fone calls, found a mate with a diagnostic machine, so the car is getting towed there on Monday.

10,4,10,10 would flash 10 times, pause for 1 sec, flash 4 times, pause for 1 sec, flash 10 times, pause for 1 sec, flash 10 times, pause for 2/3 secs.

Just out of interest when you say 'flash sequence' what do you actually mean? Will it flash for 2 seconds, stop for 1 second, then flash again?

Its only out of interest because I was told I needed to run mine on a diagnostic machine, which I didnt, as I sorted out the engine problem myself.

Cheers

All the £20 fault code readers do is connect the X pins together!
Vauxhall charge £25 to do a reading but can delete all the codes and drive it and tell you what codes came up when they drove it.

10 pin diagnostics reading:

0 X
0 X
0 0
0 0
0 0

every code will flash as follows:
1, 2, 1, 3, 1, 2, 1, 3, 1, 2, 1, 3, (which means 1,2 start of diagnostics, 1,3 open oxygen circuit/lambda sensor)
Each code is repeated 3 times!
If it only flashes the above code forever then that is the only fault stored in memory.
If it flashes 1,2 forever then you dont have any faults at all stored.
1,2 start of diagnostics
1,3 oxygen sensor open circuit
1,4 coolant temp low voltage
1,5 coolant temp high voltage
1,6 knock sensor
1,8 knock control system module
1,9 incorrect rpm signal
2,1 throttle position sens voltage low
2,2 throttle position sens voltage high
2,4 no vehicle speed signal
2,5 fuel injector voltage low
2,8 fuel pump relay faulty contact
2,9 fuel pump relay voltage low
3,2 fuel pump relay voltage high
3,3 map sensor voltage high
3,4 map sensor voltage low
3,5 idle speed control
4,1 DIS ignition signal cyl's 2+3 voltage high
4,2 DIS ignition signal cyl's 1+4 voltage high
4,4exhaust gas lean
4,5 exhaust gas rich
4,6 DIS ignition control signal voltage high
4,9 battery voltage high
5,1 ECU fault (OUCH!)
5,5 ECU fault (OUCH!)
6,3 DIS ignition signal cyl's 2+3 voltage low
6,4 DIS ignition signal cyl's 1+4 voltage low
6,9 air intake temp voltage low
7,1 air intake temp voltage high
7,2 DIS ignition control signal open circuit
7,5 automatic transmission torque control voltage low
7,6 automatic transmission continuous torque control
8,1 fuel injector voltage high
9,3 ECU fault (OUCH!)

16 pin diagnostic reading:

0 0
0 0
X 0
X 0
0 0
0 0
0 0
0 0

every code is 4 digits long and will flash 3 times, if the light stays off then no codes are stored. If a code begines with a 1 then it is a vauxhall specific code, all codes begining 0 can be found at On Board Diagnostics.
10,4,10,10,10,4,10,10,10,4,10,10, is code 0400 EGR valve.
Hope this helps.


[Edited on 19-04-2003 by Wolf In Welsh Clothing]

10 pin diagnostics (connect x)
0 X
0 X
0 0
0 0
0 0

Mint, I'll av a look tomorra (on night shift at the mo) will post up sequence early morning

Look in your fuse box and there should be a diagnostic plug, if its got 16 pins then connect the 3rd and 4th pins on the left together (as X below) and turn your key to position 2 where your light comes on normally, it should start flashing. Post the flash sequence on here and il let you know tomorrow.

16pin diagnostics:
0 0
0 0
X 0
X 0
0 0
0 0
0 0
0 0

Il try find out which pins to connect for 10 pin connectors

there is a way of readin the fault codes from the ecu, as u sed the check engine light came on then there shud be a code stored. im not sure how to do it but try searchin on here or im sure someone will know how

New plugs went on with the coil, its all been cleaned with carburettor cleaner, the battery is a heavy duty one that was replaced not so long ago, there is no hesitation when turning - it just keeps turning.

I think its gotta be an electrical problem somewhere, maybe a sensor for example, as the check engine light comes on then the car cuts out !

Keep the idea's rolling the ppl, as I am lost without my car :( Gotta make a call tomorrow to see if a Diagnostic machine has been sourced - otherwise its off to vaux on Tuesday .. Why did this happen on a bank holiday weekend :(:(

[Edited on 18-04-2003 by Corsa666]

agree with millercorsa change plugs and leads (doesnt matter about quality).

when change plugs and leads make sure u give em a good spray with WD40 (down the holes) this should help clear any built up moisture!!

It couled be the battery if the car is running low on revs when pulling away and the battery is flat, this will lead to poor firing from the plugs and the engine will cut out and possible flood it meaning it will not start up for a few mins.

Hope this makes sense and helps u buddy:thumbs:

I would...

Fit 4 new sparks, and a new set of HT leads.

See how it goes then, if no difference, try replacing the distributor cap.

Not starting, sounds battery related, or could possibly be some sort of ignition problem?

Does it cut out on low revs? or at any speed?

Miller

Ok this is a long shot, but has anyone got any idea's ....

On Tuesday night, I parked car up, didn't use it till Wednesday night, it Wouldn't start - Turning no bother, but not firing, Bumped and ran for 5 minutes, cut out again (Check engine light came on) wouldn't fire again so bumped again, ran for 5 minutes cut out again, wuldn't fire or bump - got towed home.

Checked a few things out and on of the spark plugs was arching out, the rubber seal was knackered, bought new coil and fitted, car ran ok most of the day ... on Thurs night, left mates house, exact same problem - turning no bother but again not firing up.

Got towed home, this morning, fired up first click, drove 5 minutes, then cut out again!! Me mates spent 4 hours today checking things over and we had it running for 10 minutes, then I drove it home and it cut out, now won't start again.

Is it going to have to go on the diagnostic machine to see what exactly it is, or is there something simple ??

Any help is appreciated (Soz for the essay)