OK - maybe I've got their dearer manifold (for high revving applications). Or maybe they just don't like me. :lol:

SBD quoted me £29? yesterday on one plus the drat and carriage.

About £349 plus the dreaded VAT - you're looking at over £400 by the time you've added carriage

I didn't mean that it only had a mantzel power box. I believe the BTB manifold is less than £300.

quote:

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Originally posted by miles
Another thing, 154bhp has been seen with the mantzel power box and standard (but chipped) ecu.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Patrick
Andy, out of interest what duration are your cams. When I've got my MBE ecu I'm thinking about ditching my 278degree cams for some 296degree ones. :)

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quote:

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Originally posted by miles
Another thing, 154bhp has been seen with the mantzel power box and standard (but chipped) ecu.

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Another thing, 154bhp has been seen with the mantzel power box and standard (but chipped) ecu.

quote:

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Originally posted by Patrick
I'm suprised you are running 147bhp from just filter, zorst and dbilas, even with a chip!

These Dbilas throttle bodies are so restrictive! When I first had the conversion which included a 1.6 16v, dbilas, full de-cat exhaust system and a K&N my car was rolling roaded at 120bhp! :!

Next stage of tune was a chip and an adjustable fuel rate regulator and that pushed power up to 140bhp but that was after alot of tinkering. The initial RR was 134bhp. I then stupidly got a cyclinder head that had been flowed by a mate and also some low profile cams and that pushed power to only 154bhp.

I later scrapped those and got a proper ported and flowed head and some better duration cams along with quite a few other bits but its still only producing 170bhp @ 7,089rpm


For more power, you should next be looking at an exhaust manifold for definate. The Lexmaul is a good place to start I have good things to say about them. Before you think about getting head work or cams you need to think about getting uprated head gaskets and bolts and also performance plugs and leads would be benificial. If your then going to go for headwork and cams do it properly! A decent head job will produce around 15bhp tops whatever anyone quotes but can produce alot less if not done correctly. Cams again cam produce anything upto 15-20bhp depending on duration. I have opted for 278degree cams which gave an increase of about 14bhp. Trouble with the cams is your pistons will have to be modified to give room for the valve lift, uprated pistons would be handy and would give another slight increase in power but are not 100% necessary as the standard pistons can handle about 8,500rpm I think, they won't last as long mind! When getting the head done it would probably be benificial to get the ports in the inlet manifold flowed along with the ports of the exhaust manifold as this will give far better air flow throughout the whole system.

Now you really need to think about changing engine management. I am going to opt for an MBE engine management system and overall should make things run alot better than what they are at the moment. After this you can look at getting extra injectors and probably a few things more. I've not looked this far ahead so don't know much else. What I do know is that Dbilas get alot of negativism from people on this site. I will admit they are not as good as SBD ones but they are not meant to be. They are very restrictive yes, but you can get realistic performance figures of 200bhp+ with them, it just takes alot of time and patience.

After this, there is also nitrous. I am currently really considering this. This will push total power to well over 220bhp+ :D

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START with a mappable Engine management system, that will enable you to make the most out of what you've already got and also enable you to map fore any future mods. After that, the best route to go is to add a good exhaust manifold, followed by a gas-flowed head. However, if the head's off, you can take advantage of the fact and get your pistons pocketed at the same time. Uprating the pistons like this won't give you any more power as such, but it will allow you to fit wilder, higher lift cams if you choose in the future. So long as you keep your revs to 8000rpm (and you won't be getting real power above this using Dibilas TBs), your standard valves, lifters, rods, pistons etc will all be fine. The only two things that need uprating in terms of engine safety are the cam belt tensioners and the rod bolts - both of which are cheap to do.

agreed on getting head work done

But then it is utterly un-driveable around town etc. Not a good choice for a car you use everyday, since you will be screaming everywhere at 6k rpm. What chip do you using? It might be beneficial to get some headwork done, ported and flowed.

It would help if you answered all those questions in your question! No one knows what you've got if you dont tell them!

So you have changed the inlet manifold if you have a dblias manifold.

Depends on what your budget it as to what to go for. You'd really be testing the limits of your engine management if you fit a lairy cam.

The only way to get big power out of these engines is by fitting lairy cams.

What chip you using and where did you get the dyno done?

well 147 proven, 1.6sport, dbilas throttle bodies, green twister induction kit, full powerfow zorst, chipped

what you running to get 150 bhp?

You would get a better power gain from a Mantzel powerbox or Velos torque tube,and a stainless 4-2-1 exhaust manifold from www.sbdev.co.uk Their exhaust manifolds are the dogz bollox.

nar manifold is stabdard, need to look at one of them enall

Have you changed both the standard manifolds and had any head work done?

1.6 sport

What engine is it mate?

beardy!?! LOL

is it gonna make a noticable difference?
beardy??