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DERV-POWER
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posted on 18th Sep 10 at 09:50 |
i would try check that the ignition coil is getting a signal, but i think that the coil maybe breaking down when hot
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Richie
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posted on 17th Sep 10 at 22:28 |
The only other cheapish sensor you can try replacing is the Lambda which is only active when the engine is hot.
It's another sensor that rarely registers a faul with the ECU. You should just be able to unplug it though. I used to do this on my X12XE and it would run without it.
Have you tried unplugging that sensor yet?
[Edited on 17-09-2010 by Richie]
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matt10328
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posted on 17th Sep 10 at 18:42 |
Took it a local garage today and had it plugged in to a machine which confirmed most of the codes I got with the paperclip test, but strangley enough not all of them. Anyway they cleared the codes for me and then it wouldn't start on their forecourt but the machine still wasn't registering anything new. Anyway I just picked it up again...once the thing had cooled down and drove it home but now still nothing is registering fault wise and it won't start again on my drive.
Two mechanics had a look and couldn't come up with anything that I hadn't tried. Admitedly they couldn't plug it in to a machine that showed what the sensors were doing real time. But they didn't charge me anything for what they did.
They did say if I brought it back next week sometime they could plug it in to a different machine which can show realtime sensor values so will probably have to do that next.
Meantime any other ideas....
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Richie
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posted on 17th Sep 10 at 10:56 |
quote:
Originally posted by matt10328
I can understand that the proper machine can give you sensor readings but is that actually going to help with this problem unless both the cam and new crank sensor as well as the existing map and maf are faulty once they are warm. All of which shouldn't be massively effected by temperature anyway.
When it cuts out I cannot start it on the crank and Map only, or the cam and map, crank and maf, cam and maf etc. but I can in any order a few hours later.
I personally believe it cannot be a sensor problem as it is ridculously unlikely that 2 of the above sensors are both failing due to a temperature related problem.
I've had the ecu out and open and can't see any discolouration inside. And since it is inside the car it doesn't get effected by heat. Could be an electrical wiring problem/chaffing etc, but unlikely to effected by heat, plus it would be intermittant. This goes from working to dead instantly.
What about immobilser problems? Any ideas on this?
[Edited on 16-09-2010 by matt10328]
If it was an immobiliser problem, the engine management light would keep flashing when the engine cuts out.
It's definately a sensor outputting a crazy parameter to stop you getting spark, or the ECU is cooking itself somehow. You need to get it on a tech2 to see all the sensor parameters when the problem is occuring. As John said, it could be a vaccum leak which can send the MAP sensor round the bend ect, but it shouldn't cause loss of spark.
I had a similar problem with an X12XE.. it was still getting spark but would only play up when hot. I had to get a Tech2 on it with Vauxhall.... they found a corroded wire from the coolant temp sensor that was giving an increased resistance reading. You aint gonna find that out from messing about unplugging sensors.
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john c
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posted on 16th Sep 10 at 18:43 |
I had a similar problem after rebuilding mine,
i got 2 vacuum pipes round the wrong way 2 the carbon canister solenoid valve. therefore it would start from cold when the ECU was adding extra fuel, but the vacuum leak (the valve won't work properly backwards) was just too much for it to start when warm and at the correct mixture. hope it turns out to be something this simple
John
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combat corsa
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posted on 16th Sep 10 at 14:54 |
from what i make out i would go to a garage as it only £25 to get a code read and plus they can clear the codes down for ya. and if they cant tell you a problem then go to an auto electrician as the ecu might be goin up the duff
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Warren G
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posted on 16th Sep 10 at 14:32 |
stop guessing, get someone to look at it
you need to know the codes its putting out
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matt10328
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posted on 16th Sep 10 at 11:57 |
I can understand that the proper machine can give you sensor readings but is that actually going to help with this problem unless both the cam and new crank sensor as well as the existing map and maf are faulty once they are warm. All of which shouldn't be massively effected by temperature anyway.
When it cuts out I cannot start it on the crank and Map only, or the cam and map, crank and maf, cam and maf etc. but I can in any order a few hours later.
I personally believe it cannot be a sensor problem as it is ridculously unlikely that 2 of the above sensors are both failing due to a temperature related problem.
I've had the ecu out and open and can't see any discolouration inside. And since it is inside the car it doesn't get effected by heat. Could be an electrical wiring problem/chaffing etc, but unlikely to effected by heat, plus it would be intermittant. This goes from working to dead instantly.
What about immobilser problems? Any ideas on this?
[Edited on 16-09-2010 by matt10328]
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Richie
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posted on 15th Sep 10 at 23:16 |
When it cuts out and dies - can you run it by unplugging all the sensors except for the crank and MAP?
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DERV-POWER
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posted on 15th Sep 10 at 21:54 |
it not just about the codes , you need to know what the sensors readings are, fault codes are helpful but dont give you instant answers
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matt10328
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posted on 15th Sep 10 at 21:05 |
no, but would a proper code reader bring up other codes than the ones I have? and if so why? I'm reluctant to shell out £70 odd just for some mechanic to tell me it needs about 10 sensors replacing at a cost of £££££ and that they couldn't possibly figure out what is causing it not start without replacing them all first.
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DERV-POWER
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posted on 15th Sep 10 at 20:44 |
have you had it code read using a proper code read
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matt10328
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posted on 15th Sep 10 at 20:20 |
Hi,
I've got this problem with my Corsa Sport 1.4 16v (Xreg Corsa B) in the way it starts and runs fine from cold, warms up fine, drives for about 30mins then it goes completely dead, and will not start again for a good couple of hours.
Alternatively it will drive fine for anything under 30mins I'll park up then if it's left for anything more than 10mins it then won't start again for a couple of hours.
So it's definitely temperature related.
When the car is cold I can disconnect every sensor except the crank and MAP and the car starts...lumpy...but it starts. I can also start it just on the cam and MAF only.
When the car doesn't start I know the fuel pump is still working as I can hear it pumping for a second after I stop cranking the engine over. Fuel pressure is still there.
When it doesn't start there is no spark. But as said previously I know it can't be the crank or cam. Crank sensor is new by the way.
Coil pack has also been changed recently.
When driving it and it cuts out its an instant thing, not a splutter splutter failure. Just one minute the accelerator is working and the next it is not at all. Points to some complete electrical failure....but effected by temperature somehow....
Done the paperclip test and it just brings up faults associated with me disconnecting sensors. I can't seem to reset the fault codes, by either disconnecting the battery overnight or turning the ignition on and off 30 times. None of the faults would cause the symptons above.
I'm lost now....any ideas much appreciated....
Cheers,
Matt
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