...or the Eclipse CD8061 which has 8-16V output variable (upon line driver...)
:)

Aussie, you're right, pre-outs don't give power. in the past the signal was around 1V from pre-out, many manufacturers have since pumbed them up to 4V or even 5V to reduce distortion effected by other electric equipments on a car. pre-outs only output signal to the amp.

[Edited on 13-03-2003 by Philip Lee]

Nope! Just proven I'm a dumb twat! Preouts don't give the power. Stupid tard! :)

C

P.S. Please direct all payouts towards someone else. :D

P.P.S. Pete, grace me with your words of wisdom! It's the least you can do for abandoning us for our next cruise, boy wonder! :D

[Edited on 13-03-2003 by Aussie GSi]

Infact, if that's true, using that law, my amp should output more than 55WRMS, yeah? Cos with the engine running, I'll have (13.5V + 4V) 17.5V? Is that right?

I've just done one of two things. I've either:
*shown how smart I am, by working things out on my own
OR
*shown how much of a dumb twat I am, by wasting everyones time, and blabbing on, spinning incorrect crap!

:) Hahahaha, I'm hoping it's the first, but thinking it's probably the latter! :)

C

[Edited on 13-03-2003 by Aussie GSi]

Hey guys. :)

Approximately how much do you think an uprated alternator would cost (in Aussie dollaz mate)? As I said above, my voltmeter sits just under 14V (around 13.5V). I plan to replace my battery at some point in the future.

I'm was just asking, cos I wanted to give my amp as much life as I can. :)

Another question (as I'm a dumb ass). 4V preouts. My deck has 3 of them (front, mid, rear - Alpine CDA-7894RB). With these, doesn't that mean that my amp will have enough power to run 55WRMS all the time anyway? I'm sorry, I don't know. Do these add 4V on top of whatever my engine/battery puts out? Is that true? If so, I should always have enough power, yeah?

Thanks dudes :)

C

Thanks man! :)

Yeah, I've got a Autometer Voltmeter gauge in my car. Usually when I'm driving, it'll sit just under 14V. So I should get slightly under 55WRMS, yeah? I want to replace my battery with an Odyssey at some point. :)

C

[Edited on 13-03-2003 by Aussie GSi]

quote:

---

When my engine is running, I should get 55WRMS through 4 channels (in my case, 55WRMS x 2 + 130WRMS x 1 - sub ). When the engine is off, I should get the 12V figure (35WRMS).

---

;) I'm a quick lad Pete. :)

C

Hahah, well done and it took you all of 22 minutes!
:P

Don't worry fellas! :) I've been searcing through the threads. The one below answers my question exactly! :D

www.corsasport.co.uk/board/viewthread.php?tid=50361

When my engine is running, I should get 55WRMS through 4 channels (in my case, 55WRMS x 2 + 130WRMS x 1 - sub ). When the engine is off, I should get the 12V figure (35WRMS).

Thus proving, you should always search through the threads first! Dumb shitt I am! :D

Thanks anyway fellas. :)

C

[Edited on 11-03-2003 by Aussie GSi]

Hey guys :)

I've got a fairly basic question. Sorry, this might sound really, stupidly simple, but I'm not sure.

I've just bought an Alpine V12 (MRV-F340) 4 ch amp.
It is rated at
65WRMS x 4 (14.4V @ 2ohm)
55WRMS x 4 (14.4V @ 4ohm)
35WRMS x 4 (12.0V @ 4ohm)

My question is: What will be the output in my car? I always though it was the 55WRMS figure. It will be run off an Alpine head unit with 4V preouts, running front components and a SVC 12" sub (bridged).

Yeah, sorry for the most probably, simple as question. Wasn't quite sure though. :)

C