quote:

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Originally posted by Ben ev
you can but the multi stone ones are much better as they dont damage the bores if you slip abit. kinda look like something you clean a toilet with, more expensive mind but worth it impo

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you can but the multi stone ones are much better as they dont damage the bores if you slip abit. kinda look like something you clean a toilet with, more expensive mind but worth it impo

quote:

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Originally posted by Ben ev
yes you have to at least hone the bores for the rings to bed in otherwise they wont seal properly and it will be down on compression and let oil into the combustion chambers. personally i wudnt do rings without a rebore but if the block is mint with no scores and no lip at the top of each bore then you mgt get away with a hone. this means crank out and everything spotlessly clean so basically full rebuild. you can use oil to prime the bearings. use meths to wipe the surface and then coat in oil when in the journals. be very c arefull not to scratch them as you can do this with a finger nail (they are very soft!) make sure all the pistons are clean in the ring recesses ect. before you start any work get a haynes manual and properly read all the relevant parts inclueding reassembly. dont just look at the pictures or you will fuck it up. best off getting a mate whos done something similar before to help but dont take his advice as gospel!

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top lad

yeah sure bud ill u2u ya, its yours as long as i can get this other one,thanks

u can but it will make life hard for you, ur better off taking the whole thing out mate, and im really interested in the duff bottom end as i will only want the crank out of it, if you could let me know tonight we be great

quote:

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Originally posted by Torsa g
get a new bottom end and il buy that one of you

cant you use ecotec bottom ends

[Edited on 11-09-2008 by Torsa g]

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get a new bottom end and il buy that one of you

cant you use ecotec bottom ends

[Edited on 11-09-2008 by Torsa g]

i am thinking that this is a pain of a job!! foooks sake :(

yes you have to at least hone the bores for the rings to bed in otherwise they wont seal properly and it will be down on compression and let oil into the combustion chambers. personally i wudnt do rings without a rebore but if the block is mint with no scores and no lip at the top of each bore then you mgt get away with a hone. this means crank out and everything spotlessly clean so basically full rebuild. you can use oil to prime the bearings. use meths to wipe the surface and then coat in oil when in the journals. be very c arefull not to scratch them as you can do this with a finger nail (they are very soft!) make sure all the pistons are clean in the ring recesses ect. before you start any work get a haynes manual and properly read all the relevant parts inclueding reassembly. dont just look at the pictures or you will fuck it up. best off getting a mate whos done something similar before to help but dont take his advice as gospel!

well ive got a cam kit coming for the head and that comes with its own lube/oil for followers etc but ive never worked on a bottom end before (that isnt meant how it sounds lol) so im trying to find out,i have plenty of mates who "reckon" they know but im not above asking when i don't know how....?

i dont see any reason why you cant use new engine oil(new as it wont contain any deposits to get into the races and score the surface) as itll be sitting in oil when back together however im sure you can get something called engine lube.

beardy? anybody? shine a little more light on this subject before i commit to summat that may not be worth doing...please

quote:

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Originally posted by BeArDy
Pistons rings have to be done from the top so head will have to be off anyway.
Do not reuse barings on the bottom end.
Rehorn the block before put new rings in.
Remember to use engine lube on barings.

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yeah i keep filling her up its not stupid amounts but its enough and ive spent a lot of time and money on the car and want it right...otherweise whats the point,as for the t##t that did my engine, he should stick his tools up his arse,i doubt i'll see him about,

does anybody have a pic of how the new rings sit around the piston? i will read up on it but would like peice of mind

ring from vaux should be fine mate,not sure about the rehoning etc as never done the rings etc myself.As long as you make sure there is plenty of oil in the sump and it doesnt run dry then it should be ok for a daily drive.

thanks beardy and m17tty

this may be a stupid question but does the block have to be rehorned? if all appears okay when i take the head off (no marks/scores etc)

do i need a specific set of piston rings or can i just get a replacement set from vauxhall?

ill be doing the valve seals when i reassemble the spare head and also have ordered some bottom end bearings and uprated rod bolts

at the moment i have to use the car,im only going steady but will i cause lasting damage over the next couple of weeks till i have everything ready?

thanks alot guys :)

Pistons rings have to be done from the top so head will have to be off anyway.
Do not reuse barings on the bottom end.
Rehorn the block before put new rings in.
Remember to use engine lube on barings.

Also check the breather pipes from the rocker as its been known to cause smoking exhaust when blocked.

is the head off at the moment??If not get it to a garage to be tested to get a definate cause.If it smokes on decel only id say valve stems if it smokes under load then rings are shot.

guys?

as above,i beleive my engine to have been rebuilt by a complete deadbeat!! it runs fine and goes well enough but is using oil/smoking even when warm,some freinds say valve stem oil seals...some say piston rings
if piston rings my mate said he managed to change his without removing the crank??
although im pretty good on the tools and im on with putting a new head together for it thats been ported/cams new oil seals etc is it a big job to do the rings while the heads off?

what are your thoughts or tips guys?
thanks (again lol)
ry