Sorted. I'll draw the full diagram out tonight for ayone to double check as well :)

yeah that'll do it. ignition live connected to the coil of a relay.

Yeah, I can see exactly how the switches work as well.

I'm gunna be making up a loom for a car that doesnt have one, whats the best way to get that 25A ignition feed to the switches? 30A relay with a 25A fuse behind it, direct feed off the battery with an ignition live "trigger"?

[Edited on 25-06-2008 by pow]

there is a lamp inside it that comes on when your dash lights do. there is a resistor inside that dims the lights when the heaters are off. when you switch them on you get full voltage to the lights so they come on brighter.

ah shit i've figured it mate. they are switches yes.

i just tried to explain exactly how them switches work in words but deleted it coz its not easy to understand.

They are switches aren't they?

8300 and 8305 are relays are they not???

Infact, the switch would work with just pins 1 and 3 connected wouldnt it? It wouldnt light up at all though (with the interior lights or when its on). Pin 1 would be the input (IE. from the use box), Pin 3 the output (IE. to the heated seat).

I've labeled what I think is right (prehaps someone could check?

This is for the interior fuses as well:



[Edited on 25-06-2008 by pow]

WTF? Theres no relay in the top picture?!?

F13 is interior lighting (V+), its for the light in the button. F3 is a 25A for the heated seats, meaning that the top dragram says that the load for the heated seats is coming from the battery, through the master fusebox (40 or 50A fuse: MF3), thro' the ignition switch (like the electric mirrors etc etc), into the interior fusebox (F3) and then into the switch.

Youw ouldnt have a relay BEHIND a fuse would you (ie, it would be between the fuse and the switch - so it would be on that diagram).

If V+ is interior lighting (which I'm pretty sure it is), then the whole circuit would work without the feed from F13 connected, the switches just wouldnt light up when you switch the lights on.

Or am I wrong :look:

Without a key that top one is a bit hard to understand but after a quick look late at night it seems you want to take the full load for the seats from the ignition switch and not use any form of relay.

Where as the top one only uses the ignition voltage and heated switches to turn on a relay and the heat current comes from fuse 13

Im not sure how much current heated seats take but I doubt you will be able to switch it without the use of a relay and a seperate 12V fused supply so you dont end up pulling another 20A through the ignition switch

excelenttt :cool:

yep its the same but simple version of it :thumbs:

Who knows, but it looks the same doesnt it?

ah yes i see it now, looks right cant see why it wouldnt work but only one way to find out!

Dunno, but the diagram at the top (complicated one I was given to use) both pins are connected to the +ve side of the heated pad (thats what the pads are, its for heated seats this one).

why have pins 5 & 3 doing the same thing? do you need both?

got a key/legnend?

what is the "pad"

Anybody?

Check this for me?

They mean and will do the same thing (hopefully), just simplified it for myself:



AND SIMPLE: