will just use the 4 vacum ports to balnce them with, much easier

balance them in pairs then, they are on a common spindle so they wont be far out

havent got bleed screws, but can adjust the idle of all of them, or adjust the balance in pairs, not singlely

as dave says, cold start is controlled by the ecu correction tables, i.e. air temp, coolant temp and voltage (usual ones)

the idle is controlled by a, the mapping and b, the balancing screws on the tb's either bleed screws or the ones that open the throttle a tiny bit on some tapers

(air flow meter = synchrometer)


I started off with a gunsons 'carbalancer' that cost me £10 from halfords and then bought a proper one from webber.

BALANCING THROTTLE BODIES
Idle bleed screws (if fitted) should be closed at the start of this operation.
Before starting the engine adjust throttle balance by setting the single idle adjuster screw such that the nearest butterfly is just visibly open, then adjust the cross-link screws such that the remaining butterflies are at a similar angle.
Start the engine and use a flow meter to check airflow through each throttle body bore, adjusting as necessary. It may be necessary from time to time to reset the idle. Always re-check the balance on all bores after each adjustment and with the cross-link adjuster locking nuts tightened. Idle bleed screws (if fitted) may now be used for a final fine balance. Bear in mind that adjusting the idle bleed screws will not affect the throttle position sensor.
If a flow meter is not available reasonable results can be achieved by using a length of small-bore tube to listen to the flow through each bore.

you control idle by the idle bypass valves or the throttle plate position using a synchrometer. cold start is more down to the map than the idle position.

would the idle be ok without a idle air control on throttle bodies

would cold start be hard?

[Edited on 03-01-2008 by warren.g]