ime guessing this just increases spring pressure to stop the valve opening as much? ile give it a go

take pressure release valve out, put a washer inside the nut that you slacken off the pump, ie under the spring, re fit and try that

quote:

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Originally posted by ed
Could it nor just be the oil viscosity. 50 is pretty thin oil right?

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Could it nor just be the oil viscosity. 50 is pretty thin oil right?

c20let oil pumps are about £75 from autovaux, got one a few months ago!
theres loads of people running over 350bhp on a standard pump with no problems!!

will be on order at the end of the month with a elec temp/press gauge to eliminate that from the equation. will also do oil and filter just for peice of mind and see what i find in the sump.(hopefully just oil)
going to raise the back of the bonnet at fit some astra gsi vents,
may even go up the breakers to find a oil cooler that looks up to the job.
if that dosnt solve the problem then could be end of engine.........:mad:

[Edited on 16-05-2007 by Ben ev]

Well I had a look at the ones from Vaux and they are 196 + VAT. I don't know about the gauges mate but you might as well try another one just to make sure yours isn't fooked. Might be a cheap fix for you.

just had a look £195. stings abit but think i will get one of those as its cheaper than rebuilding the engine i supose. what do you think about the gauge situation? are electronic ones more reliable/accurate?

quote:

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Originally posted by Ben ev
does the nylon relief valve mean anything? ie stop it from sticking open better? whats the advantage of steel internals?

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does the nylon relief valve mean anything? ie stop it from sticking open better? whats the advantage of steel internals?

cheers for all the advice:thumbs:

[Edited on 16-05-2007 by Ben ev]

should be 21 psi even when hot. dosnt tap etc and dosnt blue smoke. the pressure gauge is a mechanical one so oil travels threw a tiny copper pipe, through the bulkhead and up to the back of the gauge. could this be the problem?? maybe an electronic one with a sender would be better?

Z20's are a straight fit apart from the oil pick up.

I have the one regal sells, there is no extra flow. Just steel internals and nylon pressure relief valve.

The Z20LET has rouhgly a 30% higher flow rate but needs the oil pickup in the sump modified. Only really recomended for big power cars where high oil pressure is expected.

Have you checked your idle pressure against anyone elses C20LET? At idle the pressure is low because the engine is not turning over very fast.

z20 lets arent a straight fit mate. u can buy sbd metal gears and fit them to urs. that pressure is very low. it must be tapping its tits off if its that low i would of thought

quote:

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Originally posted by C4RL0
is it just a standard pump though? Running that kind of spec I would have least went for one with steel inners. If not the Z20LET one.

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is it just a standard pump though? Running that kind of spec I would have least went for one with steel inners. If not the Z20LET one.

using mobil 1 15w 50 to compensate for the super hot turbo. people have mentioned pressure relief valve but surely this would cause low pressure also when eng is cold??
pump is probibly 3 years old max

sounds like pumps a gonna ... what oil you useing too?

[Edited on 16-05-2007 by SportyBoy]

Surely if you had glazed one of the bores then fluids would be going both ways, not just petrol into oil, but oil up into bores making a smokey engine.

And oil pressure is always low at idle, it's only when you start going does the oil pressure rise, because the bottom pulley is moving faster, turning the oil pump faster.

I don't know what the oil pressure should be, but if it worrying then maybe the oil pump should be looked at???

anyone??

i have a problem with hot idle oil pressure on my gsi c20let. all pressure is fine apart from when the engine is hot/ after a faily long drive when pressure drops to about 10psi. i think it would loose pressure completly if i let it sit idleing. not sure what temperature the oil reaches as havnt got a temp gauge atm but this will be the first point i look into.

to help here is a full spec of the engine

c20xe block and head.
mahle8.5/1 forged aliminuim pistons 86.5mm.
deseemed, radiused and highly polished conrods with regal bolts.
xe inlet/ let exhaust cams on sbd vernier pulleys.
1 off tubular manifold, custom downpipe to suit rs turbo elbow,
custom centre section,
garret t3 turbocharger (NOT WATER COOLED ) 15-18psi boost
. braided oil feed hose
standad actuator with blitz boost controller.
hks air filter.
silcone boost hose through out.
fronterra intercooler.
1 off top hat,
modified throttle body.
fully rebuilt head enlarged ports.
bailey blow off valve.
mocal 10 row oil cooler+ braided hoses.
modified sump for turbo oil return.
82 degree thermostat.
pacet fan,
c20let main harness and ecu with phase2 chips. c20let senors to suit.
steel headgasket 1.9mm,
1 off heatshield for turbo,
iradium spark plugs,
bosch red injectors,
sard fuel pressure regulator,
walbro 255l/h fuel pump.
polished distributer,
1 off stainless oil catch tank,
mtec driveshafts ,hubs and engine mounts.


not sure how much effect the turbo would have on oil temps? anyone no how much a water jacket around the bearing like on the kkk's etc help?

one of my mates thinks i mgt of glazed the bores after rebuilding the engine about 4000 miles ago and therefore dumping fuel into the sump and thinning the oil... dipstick/head etc dont smell of fuel though so hopeing that isnt the case.
water temps do get high ish but nothing over 100 degrees etc before its shut down but oil press is low even at about 92 degress after a full boost run.

any suggestions on how to tackle the problem?:(

[Edited on 16-05-2007 by Ben ev]