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sxibeast

posted on 12th Jun 05 at 14:11

A Red top battery is a starter battery. a Yellow top is a deep cycle battery that can be run down and then charged back up many times without the internals screwing up.

As you seem to be spending £££ on the system, i would steer clear of a relay split charge system as they are not as sturdy as others on the market. Splash out £40-£90 on a Diode split charger. Alot more stable and better! :D


Richie

posted on 12th Jun 05 at 09:43

Ive heard Pyle on demo quite a few times in stores and heard an install in an Escort. The sound quality is full on rubbish, the THD is quite high, the power ratings are nowhere near what is stated.

I bet if you were to get a scope and hook this amp up to one and look at the signal coming out, you wouldnt want one :lol:

However as we can all see you are after just cheap and cheerful, so thats what you will get :)


corsa_lover

posted on 11th Jun 05 at 21:54

i dont see a problem with pyle myself have heard a full pyle demo system running and it sounds quite good, bought the lot as a package so got a good discount only paid about £120 for first three amps, last 1 was a lot more though.

Out of interest what do you know or have heard about pyle?


Richie

posted on 11th Jun 05 at 20:20

Pyle gear is really, really bad.

Cmon £150 for 1800wRMS? You think thats realistic?


Dom

posted on 11th Jun 05 at 19:35

quote:
Originally posted by corsa_lover
already have a red top battery and the power cap. Is yellow better than red and why? Also why is it better to split charge the system than just upgrading standard battery if im drawing that much power it will have to run with the engine on? I know in theory its better but not sure on the reason.

upgrading the battery and alternator will stop overheating?

last question will a 180A split charge relay be able to quote with i think you said 2 gauge to the battery at the back?


im not 100% up to scratch tbh, but i believe the yellow top has a better power cycle :boggle: and can push more juice for longer periods.

As for the power cap, leave it out mate until you can run the system properly without - like i said, it will causes a lot of stress on the electrical system.

As for split charging, because if you ran a cable the length of the car, the voltage would drop, ie: it might be 14 up front, but i might drop 1-2volts by the time it gets to the back, so you loose XX amount of watts the amp can produce.
So use a split charge system, place the battery in the boot and keep all the power cables nice and shorts to help gain the magical voltage of 14.4 :thumbs:

As for upgrading the battery and alternator - no it doesnt stop it overheating, it will stop your battery running down too quickly, as well as easing the stress on your electrical system (like dimming lights etc). However, you have a read top up front, so your fine on that - but you really do need to look at how much power your whole system is likely to take and then work out what alternator you need etc

and for the split charge fuse, do a search on splitting charging in this ice section and there is a post about with info about it all - as im not too hot on split charging systems.

richie - i take it pyle gear isnt exact the muts nuts then? ive come across it, but never really looked at it etc :thumbs:


Richie

posted on 11th Jun 05 at 07:35

But its Pyle :lol:

For an amp that you can get for less than £150 in the states, id check the size of the fuse on the amp :lol:

[Edited on 11-06-2005 by Richie]


corsa_lover

posted on 11th Jun 05 at 01:35

already have a red top battery and the power cap. Is yellow better than red and why? Also why is it better to split charge the system than just upgrading standard battery if im drawing that much power it will have to run with the engine on? I know in theory its better but not sure on the reason.

upgrading the battery and alternator will stop overheating?

last question will a 180A split charge relay be able to quote with i think you said 2 gauge to the battery at the back?


Dom

posted on 10th Jun 05 at 10:58

Shit me :! although i doubt it will reach anywhere near 3k at 1.3 ohms mate, more like 2-2.5k but still a lot of power :lol:

but yea, i would get a diesel corsa battery up front, upgrade your alternator (i believe you can get 100Ah jobbies for corsas, but i would look into something bigger tbh - but it will sent you back £££) and the "big 3" with 2 gauge (read the FAQ sticky). And then split charge the system with a yellow top in the back, and use 0/1 gauge off of that to a dizzy block to say 2 gauge etc to the amps :thumbs:

Also i wouldnt worry about using a cap mate, unless you can solve the power problems without one then adding one will just add more stress to your system - there used just to smooth everything out!

And dont skimp on anything on the above, especially not the alternator as there is no way you going to beable to supply a 4k system with a 60/70Ah alternator :lol:


corsa_lover

posted on 10th Jun 05 at 10:18

small mistake the last amp is 3600 not 36090 didnt check my post.

dont have rms values for first three but the big mono block (3600w) is:
1 x 600w RMS @ 4ohms
1 x 1800w RMS @ 2ohms
1 x 3600w max @ 1.3 ohms
(no rms for below 2 ohms but is 1 ohm stable)

i will be running the others (max values not rms) at:

2 x 2 channel @ 2000 x 1 @ 4ohms
1 x 4 channel @ 1000 x 2 @ 4ohms a channel

the amps are all pyle (no puns please about the name):
2 x pla2570
1 x pla4370
1 x plad3300d

have tried to give as much info as i can


[Edited on 10-06-2005 by corsa_lover]

[Edited on 10-06-2005 by corsa_lover]


Dom

posted on 9th Jun 05 at 14:15

can we have RMS values please - instead of this bullshite 2k/36k crap ;) :lol:


kev_corsa

posted on 9th Jun 05 at 14:13

:lol:


Melville

posted on 9th Jun 05 at 12:36

quote:
Originally posted by corsa_lover
1 36090 watt amp (big power)


I hear Glastonbury need a new sound system :o


corsa_lover

posted on 9th Jun 05 at 12:19

i currently have 3 2000 watt amps and 1 36090 watt amp (big power) so ive bought a 50 farad hybrid capacitor and a red top battery. I know how to split charge i just dont want to overload anything. i was planning on running 4 gauge to the battery in the boot using a 180A relay and using 0 gauge from battery to power cap but ive been advised doing it this way will cause massive overhaeting in the 4 gauge to the boot and loud buzzing from relay so have been told to replace standard battery with red top one run 0 gauge to the boot straight to the power cap

can anyone who knows about this stuff offer anymore suggestions or corrections to what ive just said?