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X 60RSA
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posted on 21st Apr 05 at 23:54 |
I've left the exisiting one on, cleared of all faults now thank fcuk!
Just got to go to an auto electrican's tomorrow to find out why both my Alarm and ABS fuses are blowing, sounds like something is touching it shouldn't somewhere.
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shrews corsa
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posted on 21st Apr 05 at 23:50 |
my lambda sensor was really easy to remove once engine was at normal driving temp, didnt take much effort
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IntaCepta
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 16:54 |
the lambda sensor is a right bitch to get off!
I dunno what vaux used to seal it as it won't budge even with brute force.
Yea, i had to warm the engine up and wore gloves, got the bastid off in the end.
The sensor is at a funny angle so its quite hard to get any real leverage with a spanner.
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Tom N
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 16:24 |
quote:
Originally posted by j1400
To remove the lambda, slip a 22mm spaner over, then a scaffold poll, then tug and make a funny face from straining so hard. If this fails a 7lb club hammer does the trick.
:lol:
this is the method i used to get my crank nut off!
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James R
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 16:18 |
To remove the lambda, slip a 22mm spaner over, then a scaffold poll, then tug and make a funny face from straining so hard. If this fails a 7lb club hammer does the trick.
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Tom N
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 16:16 |
quote:
Originally posted by Siberia
quote:
Originally posted by X 60RSA
Just spoke to a place in my town thats done alot of valver/v6 and turbo corsa conversions, he said just disconnect the battery for ten mins, have a cuppa tea and a fag if ya smoke (i do), reconnect it and it should clear the fault!
I'm sooo soo on my kness praying that my new afm and lambda sensor will cure my long, annoying, cash draining, alarm ecu frying, engine missing, overfueling, popping banging and flaming problem! quote:
:lol::lol: dear god....!
mine does all of the above apart from the alarm part!
i have just given up for a while on it though!
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X 60RSA
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 13:56 |
quote:
Originally posted by Siberia
quote:
Originally posted by X 60RSA
Just spoke to a place in my town thats done alot of valver/v6 and turbo corsa conversions, he said just disconnect the battery for ten mins, have a cuppa tea and a fag if ya smoke (i do), reconnect it and it should clear the fault!
I'm sooo soo on my kness praying that my new afm and lambda sensor will cure my long, annoying, cash draining, alarm ecu frying, engine missing, overfueling, popping banging and flaming problem! quote:
:lol::lol: dear god....!
Tell me about it, just got my AFM and its the right one, lambda wont be in till 4:30 tonight, bugger.......i'll be back on here about 7 to tell you guys whether all is sorted or not! fingers crossed it will all be done, apart from the CAT1 ECU that still smokes when plug the alarm/key fob plug in lol
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Siberia
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 13:42 |
quote:
Originally posted by X 60RSA
Just spoke to a place in my town thats done alot of valver/v6 and turbo corsa conversions, he said just disconnect the battery for ten mins, have a cuppa tea and a fag if ya smoke (i do), reconnect it and it should clear the fault!
I'm sooo soo on my kness praying that my new afm and lambda sensor will cure my long, annoying, cash draining, alarm ecu frying, engine missing, overfueling, popping banging and flaming problem! quote:
:lol::lol: dear god....!
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X 60RSA
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 13:35 |
Just spoke to a place in my town thats done alot of valver/v6 and turbo corsa conversions, he said just disconnect the battery for ten mins, have a cuppa tea and a fag if ya smoke (i do), reconnect it and it should clear the fault!
I'm sooo soo on my kness praying that my new afm and lambda sensor will cure my long, annoying, cash draining, alarm ecu frying, engine missing, overfueling, popping banging and flaming problem!
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X 60RSA
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 13:10 |
I'll go get my other AFM and Lamda sensor, and re-fit my ICV, thats a pain to get back on when your working on a car thats only on axle stands!
What about clearing the ECU, because if limp mode works off the knock sensor and retards the timing by 8.5degress, which chucks in shit loads of fuel and sucks air in like a dyson hoover i'll still have my problem........
[Edited on 20-04-2005 by X 60RSA]
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CorsAsh
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 13:08 |
They stick fast as Vaux use a special paste when fitting them - has silicon particles in it that harden and lock the thing in IIRC. Just brute force and ignorance should see it off.
Warming the engine will help too as said above.
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X 60RSA
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 13:01 |
quote:
Originally posted by SRi-Co
Run the engine till warm... then attack the damned lambda, it'll move then :thumbs:
I will go fetch my Lambda and my AFM, get the ICV back on and if non of these cure my problems then im lost!
BUT i need to cure my fault codes as my ECU could be chucking more fuel through and sucking like made, limp mode is it?
I've tried the ignition on and off 30 times, took my ECU out for a day with no joy.
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Rileysport
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 12:58 |
Run the engine till warm... then attack the damned lambda, it'll move then :thumbs:
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X 60RSA
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 12:52 |
It probably sounds bad if im constantly retarted at 8.5degress on limp mode lol
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James R
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 12:45 |
I'd have a look round www.max-boost.co.uk, there's a bit in there somewhere than list fault codes and likely culprits.
although not for the 20XE it's similar ecu set up.
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X 60RSA
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 12:24 |
Well im gertting low voltage to my lambda and air flow meter and these 2 work in conjunction to sort out the fuel mixture?
The voltage alternates on the lambda depending on temperatures in the exhaust if im right? If im getting a shite connection it could be sending me a fist full of fuel into each cylinder for me!?
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James R
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 12:22 |
they bake on pretty bad, do you think this is causing a problem??
Youcan ground pic 21 on the ecu to stop the ecu lookign for the lambda.
Have a dig round on migweb to find out how.
James :)
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X 60RSA
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posted on 20th Apr 05 at 12:20 |
Basically, im not sure if its ever had any heat resistant/sealant/paste on the threads as its bloody tight!
What about running the engine upto normal op tempt then trying not to burn myself whilst removing it!?
I WD40 around it all last night, unless im turning the wrong bit!? I can only see 1 place for my spanner to go or is the bit im thinking of welded in and shouldn't be removed!
Bloody thing!
[Edited on 20-04-2005 by X 60RSA]
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