tonight i pick up some welding cable, nice and fat! and a distribution block with no fuse in it and on wed ill have some fatty fuses to help set my car on fire! till then im having to go "un-fused"

i have my battery relocated to built

i would love to help but dunno how it got there :o

if you get an ANL fuse holder you can get fuses up to 300A.... but obviously no point having that kinda fuse if your only running small(er) cable coz the cable could melt instead! losing voltage over that length remember.... get some 0awg in there :thumbs:

i got two in the engine bay as i used an old distrubution block in there

What do you want to know?? Just run it without fuses for now... it will be fine so long as your wiring is spot on and no chance of earth anywhere. Youve got all the fuses in the right place but why 2 in the engine bay? It will be popping the battery fuse first as the strater motor is pulling off the battery.

In standard form there is no fuse between the starter and battery but as you have wiring THROUGH the car its best to fuse it because if it were to earth (short) the battery and wiring would ignite and hey bombfire...

eeeek this sucks i know fuck all about ice stuff, can ypou help me!?

Broster the starter motor needs approx 100-150A when it cranks the car so at least a 150A fuse IF YOU CAN FIND ONE!! You'll need a a specialist blade fuse really which are pretty rare. Personally I'd use breakers instead... Look in Maplins they may do 150/200A breakers...

I know this subject WELL from my ICE days....

Im going to be doing this soon as the battery tray is ripping out of the engine bay - its RIDDLED with cracks. Im using my Optima yellow in the boot.

[Edited on 11-04-2005 by TOMAS]

I have relocated my battery to the boot, and put two 60amp fuses in the engine bay where the original battery was and another 60amp at the battery in the boot, basically it keps nailing the fuse when you start the car, its ok for 1 or 2 starts then itll pop. its fine when its started so what fuse do i need!?