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Dom

posted on 27th Feb 05 at 19:33

quote:
Originally posted by SteveW
you thought about getting a CAP ?? i know its kinda frowned upon if your not upgrading a battery or alternator (as dom said to )

but it does keep things tight..

i would also highly rate JL Audio W3 equipment.. as i used to have a full JL install with a 15" W3 and a 500/1 amp... which rocked :D

GO LOUD .............. GO JL

cap...pfftttttt :| :lol: If you spend cash on the battery and alternator you shouldnt really need a power capacitor, although once the system run perfectly with the battery and alternator etc then yea, adding one will stop your electric system stressing as much :)

As for JL, good stuff and i might go down the route soon, but if you want it loud then RE XXX's are the way forward ;)


SteveW

posted on 26th Feb 05 at 00:25

you thought about getting a CAP ?? i know its kinda frowned upon if your not upgrading a battery or alternator (as dom said to )

but it does keep things tight..

i would also highly rate JL Audio W3 equipment.. as i used to have a full JL install with a 15" W3 and a 500/1 amp... which rocked :D

GO LOUD .............. GO JL


Dom

posted on 25th Feb 05 at 23:37

DUDE what are you doing?? :!

your spending more on rear speakers than fronts :o

Leave the alpine rears and spend the cash on some focal fronts - around the 200 quid mark :)

Also get a single 12" JL, a JL-12W3V2D4 (DVC 4ohm). Use something like a Alpine MRD-M301 monoblock for sub, or a JL if your have the cash to spare etc.

And then get another Alpine or Jl two channel amp for your fronts :thumbs:

If you have cash spare (after dynamat, cables, new battery alternator etc) then get some infinity coxials or something and run them off your headunit - otherwise they will clash with everything else and cause 'mud' in your setup :|

edit - graficxpress does some stuff called ivanhoe, that is suppose to be just as good as dynamat, and is easier to install etc + its cheaper etc etc :)

[Edited on 25-02-2005 by Dom]


Fryer

posted on 25th Feb 05 at 22:18

erm sounds deadening, go for dynamat, basically all doors, boot etc however much you can afford jus cover the car (not literally, lol)!

erm power wise, you will want to upgrade the "big 3" which is -
- Alternator to battery +
- Engine ground
- Battery - to chassis
these should all be atleast 4Ga wire!

also look at maybe adding a 2nd battery in the boot, do not go for a power cap tho! no point at all!


MikeLamb

posted on 25th Feb 05 at 16:10

at the end of the day its £170 on another amp and £120 on the subs, if its guna be awesome then why not!

Whats your advice on sound deading? and power, will the batt be enough?

Mike


Fryer

posted on 25th Feb 05 at 15:38

well the one you picked out the 12W3V2 is double the contiuous power - 300W rms up from 150W rms! there would however obviously need to be a better amp included to power the new subs, but yes you would hear a difference!
the sound will be pretty amazing from the 1st setup anyway!

if you did want to spend that bit extra then to upgrade the sub along with the 12W3V2's i would go for a :-
2* RF Mono Amps - http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3140&tab=2
= £169.99 each, so doubling the amount spent on amps! these babies however would provide your new subs with 300W at 2ohms and give your ears an assaulting!
also the fact i have included mid drivers in the rear will make the system that much nicer an crisper in a long car!
let me know what you think whether you will upgrade subs and amps or not?


MikeLamb

posted on 25th Feb 05 at 14:47

Would i hear much difference if I upgraded my subd to these?

JL-12W3V2D2 - £180

What amp would i need?

Cheers!


MikeLamb

posted on 25th Feb 05 at 07:46

looking good to me! that guna sound pretty awesome then?


Fryer

posted on 25th Feb 05 at 07:16

nah it's ok mate, sorry i didnt reply last nite! in the back i'd maybe look at a set of midbass drivers nothing else, think another set of comps would ruin the sound!

right -
2* JL Audio Subs - http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1161 = £119.99 each
Amp to power subs - PG Octane R - http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2396 = £169.99

Front Comps - RF - http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3680&tab=2 = £149.99
rears - alpine mid bass - http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=3781 = £179.99

4channel amp to power comps and rears - JL Audio - http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2353 = £269.99

total = £1009.94
you wanted to spend - £1000 so just over! see what you think to that system though!


MikeLamb

posted on 24th Feb 05 at 22:04

lets say a budget of £400 for subs and amps, 350 for front comps and amps and £250 for mids and amps, what would it sound like with another set of comps in the back? or is that just stupid? cheers for all the help m8, much appreciated!


Fryer

posted on 24th Feb 05 at 17:20

as for rears i'm not sure, i usually dont go into rear fill, not my style, like comps upfront and subs in bk, altho thats a 3door corsa i'm talkin about! i don't know! let met know wether you would spend the extra to upgrade subs, comps and amps or not, cause they i know how much to look for speakers and amp for rear!


Fryer

posted on 24th Feb 05 at 17:13

apologies, prices for that would be:-
£399.99 each amp! cant find a price right now for the subs but think they'll be around £250-300 each maybe!


Fryer

posted on 24th Feb 05 at 17:10

well in terms of upgrading front i would say something like some Moral SR-6.3's but they are going to be about £750-£800 i would have thought!
more realisticly a better set of 2way's, maybe something like RF FNQ3514 - http://caraudiosecurity.com/catalog/product_info.php+cPath+60_61_108+products_id+1553
powered by a RF Punch P5002 which is £289.99 from - http://caraudiosecurity.com/catalog/product_info.php+cPath+3_93+products_id+2836
maybe even look at upgrading your subs:-
2* 10W3v2 or 2* 12" models if you want 12inchers (both of those JL Audio)
and then upgrading the amps for those maybe:- 2* RF Punch P6001bd amps! duno wot you think?


MikeLamb

posted on 24th Feb 05 at 16:49

what would you suggest? i dont mind going over if its going to be much better, would rather wait and get the dogs goolies! Any reccomendations for speakers/amp for the back door?


Fryer

posted on 24th Feb 05 at 16:43

that head unit is nice!
erm amp to power sub's - 2* RF Punch P3001 at £169.99 each - http://caraudiosecurity.com/catalog/product_info.php+cPath+3_92+products_id+2447
and then for comps maybe a RF Punch P2002 at £159.99 - http://caraudiosecurity.com/catalog/product_info.php+cPath+3_93+products_id+2644

that totals - £1990 rounded up to the £!
i would maybe look at upgrading components, possibly some 3ways, that would bump you up to your limit, including the fact you would need a more powerful amp for 3ways!


MikeLamb

posted on 24th Feb 05 at 16:12

want motorised screen, dvd and sat nav! Makes sense to get it all in one!


mobymaster

posted on 24th Feb 05 at 15:55

Is there any particular reason your spending 1200 on a headunit?


MikeLamb

posted on 24th Feb 05 at 15:37

Hi, im saving for my veccy B install, have a budget of about £2200, below is how far i have got! Can i get better than this for the money?


Pioneer: AVIC-X1 - SPECIAL OFFER -£1249.99

Voice Command:

Pioneer: CD-VC1 - VOICE COMMAND PACK FOR AVIC-X1 -£30




Fronts:

ROC-P152S - £150

Rears:

ALP-SPX17MB - £180

Amp For Fronts + Rears:

JL-E4300 - £270

Subs:

JL-12W0-4 - £120 *2

Amp For Subs:

PHO-R4.02 - £170



Car Audio Security: 12" double subbox sealed - £60

Anyone got any suggestions what wiring kits to use, or if having a split charging system/power cap will make much difference? Also any suggestions for sound deadning?



Cheers,

Mike



[Edited on 25-02-2005 by MikeLamb]