im on 7200rpm with standard bottom end and its gets nailed everyday and its fine still

fooking ell, post from the past :O

No you wouldnt need them on standard management, dont even really need them when rev limit upped, just better safe than sorry

i dont get it :boggle: could someone please explain exactly how to fit ARP rod bolts, as im contemplating getting a manzel powerbox so would i need these on standard managment? i got the X14XE lump. sorry for bringing up old posts people, jus need to know ;) ya know how it is :D

^ i read that a few times before i got it.:lol: yeh i get exactly what ya mean now.


cool i think i'll ARP rod bolt my 1.2 8v now:o:o:lol:

This info will come handy for when i do actually have something worth modding.

You need to drop the exhaust manifold to drop the sump.

Its not hard to do.

The arp bolt shaft to head corner isn't a right angle, there is a slight curve on it, so if you bolt it onto the square bearing cap the bolt only makes contact on the curved part.

If you use a counter sink and hand drill and take a tiny little bit out of the top of the bearing cap then you get a proper square bolt to cap mating surface.

think id need a picture to understand exactly what ya need to do to the caps.. wouldnt think its difficult though.

er ya have to champher the con rod caps with a bench drill ideally, this is so the head of the ARP bolt sits into the cap making the bolt seat stonger

sure it would only be a matter of sticking the car up on ramp.. whipping of the sump... then take one bolt out and put the arp one in and work through the 8 of them....? doesnt seem like a big job...

Piss to change whilst the engine is apart, the originals would need replacing anyway. £71 to your door from rally design.

MY mantzel power box provides a power curve that keeps pulling way past 7000rpm its still pulling strong at 7500+
They are stronger because the original bolts will let go and the conrod will come off the crank before the con rod breaks, the ARP bolts are strong so they hold the con rods to the crank at higher RPM before breaking, with ARP's the con rod itsself will break befor ethe bolts

someone clear this up for me.... ARP rod bolts are just con rod bolts yeh?

how do they make the engine stronger? yer only changing the bolts but the conrods themselves are still stock parts and not any stronger..

:boggle:

cheers buddy :thumbs:

so it would be quite easy to replace them while the engine is apart in a rebuild?

what else should be considered for replacing for higher rev limit?

They keep the rod (which moves the piston) attached to the crank at higher than standard rev's

ones in the pic are in my 20XE

[Edited on 12-08-2004 by Adam_B]

what are ARP BOLTS???

are they somthing that can be replaced easily when the engine is having a Full-rebuild done?? and is it worth it?

what else should be replaced/uprated with increased rev limit??

7300 rpm is suitable:D for that spec.
You don't need ARP bolts with this spec as the power goes down from 7000 rpm:)
The oil pump is reliable until 7600rpm and the original pistons can take 8000rpm, but with ARP bolts of course:thumbs:

quote:

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Originally posted by Fwaza esquire
C16xe + mantzel, getting unichip soon but dont know what would be a suitable rev limit would be? Not getting ARP bolts coz the hassle of fitting them etc...
cheers -f

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C16xe + mantzel, getting unichip soon but dont know what would be a suitable rev limit would be? Not getting ARP bolts coz the hassle of fitting them etc...
cheers -f