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James R

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 12:40

quote:
Originally posted by Siberia
so with using verniers you can get more compression at the point were the plug fires?


Doeends what you want, if you went nuts could could make the engine have 0 overlap, abd compression would be sky high, and not very useful, al verniners so is let you timing the cams indeopendantly within abotu 0.25degrees insteat of 15deg (a tooth) Because ground cams aren't normally bang on with the timing marks as you'd expect. It also to a certain extent lets you move the power band up or down the rev range too, but that's a bit complex and not necessarily a good thing on std management.


Greasemonkey

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 12:25

Verniers will allow maximum air to be in the cylinder during compression yes, cos the valves will be working at the exact right time not just within a tooth of the right time


Siberia

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 11:45

so with using verniers you can get more compression at the point were the plug fires?


James R

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 11:36

quote:
Originally posted by SRi-Co
J1400 you seem to be some kind of god in relation to this stuff :lol:


Cheers:)

Just don't ask me if a body look looks good:lol::lol:


Rileysport

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 11:31

J1400 you seem to be some kind of god in relation to this stuff :lol:


James R

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 11:20

TDC does happen every 360deg of crank roation, but you need TDC and the cams set to the same place. You don't set the engine from tdc as vx didn't set the marks to be at tdc, it's just before, but the cam timing marks are set aswell, so although it's out it's right. Very odd, but that's what they did, so dropping a long screwdriver down isn't a great deal of use, unless you're runngin verniers and setting the timing spot on.


Siberia

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 11:15

quote:
Originally posted by SRi-Co
and... :boggle: shouldnt it be as easy as, set pot 1 at tdc, then sort the cam pulleys out :|


yeh but how do ya know piston 1 is at TDC without the head off or something shoved down the bore?

E.G set the arrow on the crank so you know its deffo at TDC for piston 1

rotate the crank 1 full revolution and line the arrow up again this is NOT TDC for piston 1 you would need to rotate the crank twice to get back to the start....


James R

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 11:14

To set the tension, turn the crank so the slack it taken up on the exhaust then the inlet cam, without moving the water pump (rotating if you will) this will move all the slack in the belt to the tensioner then with your other pair of hands set the tension. then rotate it. and check it again.

Also when you put the belt on, set the crank to TDC, then put on the exaust cam and slip on th einlet cam, you may need to roate the crank slightly to get the slack where you want, but it's always a tight fit.
And claret is normally spilt, cause of the damn exhaust pulley sticking outty feckign sharp bits.


Siberia

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 11:11

quote:
Originally posted by j1400
You can't just bang it on and tension it. It needs rotating and then tensioning. as the slack between the pulleys will move round as soon as the engine run. It's because the cams like to rest as close to the lowest lift as they can, which means they aren't sitting in the excat place you want them to.reverse th einlet cam a fraction so it's tight bwteen them, and set the tension. then roate the engine and check timing and tension, normally take a few rotations till it's right.


as i said in my post above hard to explain:lol: i couldnt think of the words... you got what i wanted to say bang on there:P


Rileysport

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 11:09

and... :boggle: shouldnt it be as easy as, set pot 1 at tdc, then sort the cam pulleys out :|


James R

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 11:08

You can't just bang it on and tension it. It needs rotating and then tensioning. as the slack between the pulleys will move round as soon as the engine run. It's because the cams like to rest as close to the lowest lift as they can, which means they aren't sitting in the excat place you want them to.reverse th einlet cam a fraction so it's tight bwteen them, and set the tension. then roate the engine and check timing and tension, normally take a few rotations till it's right.


Siberia

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 11:06

quote:
Originally posted by SRi-Co
^^ how you do that :lol:


very easy!!!! the cams turn once while the crank turns twice....

just because the little arrow on the crank is pointing at the right spot it can be indicating TDC of piston number 3

[Edited on 26-01-2005 by Siberia]

[Edited on 26-01-2005 by Siberia]


Rileysport

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 11:03

^^ how you do that :lol:


Greasemonkey

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 10:58

At least ya didnt get ya timing 180 degrees out like i did, lol, dont do no damage just sucks when it should be blowing lol


Siberia

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 10:50

just turn the crank with spanner loads of times.... if it was lines up after that..... then switch it on... there really not that hard to change

although i was expecting crunching noises when i did mine:o:lol:


Rileysport

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 10:36

i'd rather make sure the belts good before i turn the damned key thats all :lol:


Siberia

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 10:26

quote:
Originally posted by SRi-Co
its a new belt i put on... pain to fit really


first you cant get an engine out... now you cant change a belt:rolleyes:

u disapoint me!:|

:o


Rileysport

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 10:07

its a new belt i put on... pain to fit really


Siberia

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 09:35

when i bought my engine it had been left lying for 5-6 months... when i went to do the timing belt the inlet cam looked like it was a tooth out... the to cams werent in line cos the cams had settled.... hard to explain....

i ment turn the crank with a spanner not with the starter....


Greasemonkey

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 09:12

Check the routing of the belt and i wouldnt rotate the engine till i knew it was timed right, if its near TDC drop summit in No1 cylinder like a welding rod to check the piston is at the top, when i did my belt i didnt have any slack


Siberia

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 09:03

it will go slack if the engine is left for a while.....

rotate the crank about 8-10 times and if all the marks line up its fine....

[Edited on 26-01-2005 by Siberia]


Rileysport

posted on 26th Jan 05 at 08:58

Should the bit between the two pulleys at the top have much slack in it... coz mine looks a little too sloppy.. need to know before it goes in this weekend really, the tensioner indicates correct tension, but it looks a little slack :thumbs:

Cheers

Andy