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jrsteeve

posted on 6th Dec 03 at 16:55

only got one space in the dash really, so gotta choose.
I'd rather have the Pioneer so i'm gonna see what happens.


Richie

posted on 5th Dec 03 at 20:43

You can run both together mate, just use the auxillairy in of one of the units for the other unit :)


jrsteeve

posted on 5th Dec 03 at 20:14

just gotta decide which head unit to use now.

Clarion 835 7" touch screen CD
Alpine M700R 6.5" mini disc
Pioneer 6500 6.5" MP3/DVD

I have the Clarion already, really pleased with its displays, but i use mini disc more than anything else really, and wanna keep the steering controls.
Looking like it might be the Pioneer though.

Which is best for sound quality and build?


jrsteeve

posted on 5th Dec 03 at 20:11

cheers Austin :thumbs:


Richie

posted on 5th Dec 03 at 20:07

Mate if you want a serious battery in the back ur gonna wanna upgrade the front battery too.

Get a corsa diesel Exide battery, 600CCA's, 55ah, will be perfect and they have plenty of power. Helps a fucked petrol engine start every time too :lol:

Only about £30-£40, but definatly well worth it.


jrsteeve

posted on 5th Dec 03 at 19:21

ur a star mate cheers, i'll start looking out for a battery, as my tv hu takes enough power from the battery as it is


drunkenfool

posted on 5th Dec 03 at 19:02

The usual one to go for is the optima yellow top battery, which is around £180. To charge it, you have to get a split charge system, meaning the two batteries are connected together via a relay, and then you connect the amp up to the battery in the boot. This is a rough diagram of my system, but its on the lines of what yours would look like. Hope it helps!


jrsteeve

posted on 5th Dec 03 at 18:49

i've been thinking that. What kind of battery would i need, and how much are they roughly. How are they recharged?

cheers


drunkenfool

posted on 5th Dec 03 at 15:07

with 1500w RMS it might be time to think about a second battery and split charge system. It would also mean you dont have to buy LOADS of the expensive cable, just enough to connect the amp to the battery in the boot, and then use smaller gauge cable to carry thew charging current to the other battery.


Dom

posted on 4th Dec 03 at 21:57

not a proplem boss :)
If you find some cable that looks good, have a butchers on google to see if you can find the specs of the stuff and see what power it handle.
Having a quick look on the net and found this for stinger power cable:

Wire Gauge Chart

Wire Gauge ---- Amp Rating ---- Max. Watts
1/0 -------------- 300 -------------- 4320
4 -----------------150 ---------------2160
8 -----------------75 ---------------- 1080
10 ----------------40 --------------- 576

Chart based on a 20 foot run at 14.4 volts

So you could get away with 4GA on the stinger cables :)

p.s - if the chart doesnt work have a look HERE


jrsteeve

Icon depicting mood of post posted on 4th Dec 03 at 21:26

well i've realised that you get what u pay for, which is why i'm upgrading my entire ice system. Think i'll try ebay 1st tho :)

cheers VisibleMan


Dom

posted on 4th Dec 03 at 21:13

nah mate, i would change the whole lot to be on the safe side, smoking wire isnt nice and nor is setting fire to your car a good idea either ;)
And if thats 1500wRMS, then look at running 0 gauge from the front to the back and then into a distro block and out using 4 gauge or lower if you can. Also different cable is capable of handling diff amounts of current etc, so get some decent stuff and check on the packaging to what it can handle. However, 0 gauge would do the job nicely, although it aint cheap :(


jrsteeve

posted on 4th Dec 03 at 21:05

i had it set up by Sextons in Manchester so haven't a clue exactly what they used.

It was set up for a crappy Sony 1502 amp then i changed it for a Maystar 475 4 dhannel amp and it worked ok.
The next move is a Hifonics 1500watts mono block from the states, to power my kicker L7 - its gonna rumble!

If say the wires were a 500 watt setup, if i ran 1500 watts through it would it fry the wires, damage the equipment, or just work normally but not at its full capacity?

cheers guys


Dom

posted on 3rd Dec 03 at 21:59

quote:
Originally posted by drunkenfool
i wasnt just being vague, without knowing the power ratiing we cant recommend anything!

i know mate! :)

Remember fokes, more info you give us then the more help you will recieve :thumbs:


drunkenfool

posted on 3rd Dec 03 at 21:50

i wasnt just being vague, without knowing the power ratiing we cant recommend anything!


Dom

posted on 3rd Dec 03 at 20:14

yup, you will have to change it (by the sounds of it)
But let us know what wiring you have currently in there and current setup, then what setup your getting, then we can tell you if its up to the job or not :thumbs:


jrsteeve

posted on 3rd Dec 03 at 18:47

any one else?


drunkenfool

posted on 1st Dec 03 at 15:09

depends on the size of the cable you have now, and the power of thenew equipment. If the new stuff is three times the power, you will probably have to upgrade.


jrsteeve

Icon depicting mood of post posted on 30th Nov 03 at 16:26

I currently have a sub and amp set up in my car, but am changing both for different units that are roughly 2 or 3 times the power.

What i need to know is, will they run on the current wiring, or do i have to upgrade it?

Changing my car in March so would rather stick with the current cabling til then, but wanna know if i have to change it, or will it be ok? :boggle:

cheers