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Author Winter Summerhouse Project
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
25th Nov 14 at 12:21   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

The summer before last I put together a ready-built summer house (8 x 10 ft) but we found it was a tad small for what we wanted plus we've still got a shed sat behind it (which looks ugly).



I'd like to build something bigger from standard sized timber which comes in:

3.6, 4.2 and 4.8m sizes.

quote:
Original Ideas
I'm considering 2 x 3.6m runs for the length (rear) which would give a 7.2m length and then 4.2m width (for the side walls), the garden is 11 meters wide but the misses doesn't want me covering up some plant at the back (bah).. It would be a 6x2 framed base with 4x2 (or 6x2) walls, the roof would be slanted to the rear and covered in felt and the outside wrapped and cladded to keep things simple (with the interior insulated and plastered boarded). A small section would be used for storing bikes and garden tools and I'd probably up-cycle some second hand modern looking kitchen units to give the rest of it tidy storage.. I'd also quite like to build a little bar.

What I can't decide on is the foundations, the previous summer house is sat on sharp sand and 'council slabs', mainly because didn't want to resort to a concrete slab as it would be hard to remove if I ever changed my mind (like I have).

For the new one I'd like to keep flexible in case it has to be dismantled so I was thinking about digging 6 equally spaced holes (4 outer corners and 2 central) which can be filled with concrete and used like pad stones, this would also keep the base well ventilated.. I'm no builder though so I'm not sure if I'm risking the pad moving and I'm even less sure how big/deep they would need to be?



From that ^^^^ to this >





The base did indeed end up being made up of two 3.6m square sections but I actually ended up drilling 15 holes, each over 1m deep and filled with decent footings.


[Edited on 27-04-2015 by DaveyLC]
Colin
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Registered: 4th Apr 02
Location: Drives a hire car
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25th Nov 14 at 13:22   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I'd do it in concrete, 6" deep & use ground anchors to fix it.
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
25th Nov 14 at 13:54   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Ideally I'd like to steer away from a concrete slab

My (bad as it may be) theory is that I can dig 6 pretty deep holes, fill them with concrete so they are still below the surface then use pad-stone blocks.. so if/when I get rid I can just remove the stones, throw some soil over the concrete and reseed the entire area.
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
25th Nov 14 at 14:01   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Like so, I could even drive a steel pile into the ground to try and help keep it solid:
spencer88
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Registered: 6th Oct 08
Location: cornwall
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25th Nov 14 at 14:19   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Why not just do a strip foundation?
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
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25th Nov 14 at 14:21   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Because ideally it would need to be proud of the surface.. I suppose I could do that an use blocks for the last few inches..
spencer88
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Registered: 6th Oct 08
Location: cornwall
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25th Nov 14 at 14:25   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

It would probably be easier than your pad idea, just use blocks for the last course to take it above ground, or attach a wall plate or similar to it.
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
25th Nov 14 at 14:29   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I suppose a trench for the front and rear walls would probably be sufficient too and not that hard to dig by hand.
Dave
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Registered: 26th Feb 01
Location: Lancs
User status: Offline
25th Nov 14 at 15:57   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Just concrete some treated timber posts into the ground and frame off them.
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
26th Nov 14 at 08:58   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

This is a winner for me so far:





Auger piles with steel brackets/jacks (for levelling).

[Edited on 26-11-2014 by DaveyLC]
John
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Registered: 30th Jun 03
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26th Nov 14 at 09:08   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Or just dig a hole and stick a post in like Dave says, exactly the same thing.
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
26th Nov 14 at 09:09   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Reinforced concrete wont rot though, nor will it crack if it shifts
Dave
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Registered: 26th Feb 01
Location: Lancs
User status: Offline
26th Nov 14 at 10:14   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Concrete piles for a summerhouse

For info, I built a deck on some ground that sloped both ways with a large hot tub in the middle using the method I described, tub must weigh 2-3t full, 5 years later it's still there, I think it'll cope fine with your shed!
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
26th Nov 14 at 10:19   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

A hot tub is quite an even load (assuming its in the middle)..
AndyKent
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Registered: 3rd Sep 05
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26th Nov 14 at 13:31   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Why not a grid of small concrete slabs on a bit of a sub-base with engineering bricks to bring up the level. Then timber floor over that.

No need for piles
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
26th Nov 14 at 13:38   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

That's exactly how I've done the existing summer house

IvIarkgraham
Premium Member

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Registered: 27th Mar 04
Location: Ellesmere Port, Cheshire
User status: Offline
27th Nov 14 at 02:20   View Garage View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

i think he just wanted to show us his pictures he made
DaveyLC
Member

Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
27th Nov 14 at 09:12   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

I didn't make those pictures I nicked them from a website about building garden offices
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
1st Dec 14 at 11:22   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Drilled 7 of the 9 holes on Saturday.. Need to move the shed to drill the last two.

Went with a 12" wide Auger and we drilled down to 1m then filled the hole with 25kg of sub-base and 30kg odd of ballast mixed with concrete.








DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
4th Dec 14 at 09:42   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

6x2 Timber and blocks for the floor frame showed up



Everyone told me the 6x2 would be bouncy as hell over 3.6m but its rigid as a bastid.. should be tough as old boots with 450mm centres.

Just waiting on the joist hangers and twist nails now.

[Edited on 04-12-2014 by DaveyLC]
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
5th Dec 14 at 09:21   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Last night I built the basic structure of the two floor frames:
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
7th Dec 14 at 15:00   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Base is done

Dave
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Registered: 26th Feb 01
Location: Lancs
User status: Offline
7th Dec 14 at 16:04   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Bit weird that you've used the brackets on the only joists that are fully supported underneath.
DaveyLC
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Registered: 8th Oct 08
Location: Berkshire
User status: Offline
7th Dec 14 at 21:53   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

That was to keep it ridgid when the extra joists weren't fitted because I had to Move it on and off the piles.
Ben G
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Registered: 12th Jan 07
Location: Essex
User status: Offline
7th Dec 14 at 22:48   View User's Profile U2U Member Reply With Quote

Good progress on this. That hole maker drill thing is a beast. Love it!

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