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[quote][i]Originally posted by matt_aka_smiler[/i]
Ive noticed a few people have been asking about fitting ARP's. ive looked on SBD's website and found there countersinking intructions.

To View these in full (including diagrams) go to - http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Main.htm then navigate to the following -

"instruction sheets" at the bottem of the page,  then under "rod bolts" are the instructions called "NEW RB1 Proceedure" :thumbs:

SBD ROD BOLTS – 1.3L, 1.4L, 1.6L & 2.0L

Assembly Procedure as of 04/2002
The instructions on both pages must be used

Big end cap must be countersunk by 1mm and must be deburred.

This is done because the H/D rod bolt has a radius under the head and countersinking the hole stops the cap cutting into the bolt.

This must be done on a pillar drill turning the drill by hand only, as this prevents possible chattering of the cap. The cap must be clamped in a vice, but do not clamp the vice down, because the countersink bit has to centralise onto the big end cap hole.

When assembling the bolts, as of 2002, the manufacturers recommend only using ARP assembly lubricant as supplied, under the heads and on the threads and torque up to: -

RB1/RB1K       (9mm x 1.25mm)    2.0L 8v & 16v - 31lbft

RB2/RB2K       (8mm x 1.25mm)    1.4/1.6L   -       - 24lbft

RB2K-F           (8mm x 1.00mm)    1.3L -       -       - 26lbft

NOTE: - These are lower torque settings than would have been used with normal oil.
We cannot be held responsible for rod bolt stretch when an uncalibrated torque wrench has been used.

THE FOLLOWING NOTES ARE IMPORTANT.

ALWAYS wash the fasteners with cleaning solvent prior to installation.

They come coated with a “protective” coating, this is NOT a lubricant.

Choose correct torque from the list.

The method to follow for applying lubricant:

1.                  Coat the fastener with lubricant as evenly as possible.

2.                  Pull up the fastener so that it is ‘snug’.

3.                  Do this three times, on the third time torque to the recommended torque setting.

The above method no doubt seems strange, but does ensure no metal to metal contact that increases friction between the threads.

The torque figures shown will give a preload equal to 75% of the yield strength of the fastener.

Use a generous chamfer on all stud holes (1mm).

Do not use lock tabs. They are made from too soft a material and as it squeeze3s out the fastener preload is lost.

Due to leverage differences a fine thread will produce a greater preload for a given torque than will a coarse thread of the same diameter.

For all connecting rods check that the chamfer required to clear the bolt under head radius is adequate – this if VERY important.

[Edited on 21-07-2009 by Ste W] [/quote]

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matt_aka_smiler	posted on 31st Dec 06 at 15:40
matt_aka_smiler	Ive noticed a few people have been asking about fitting ARP's. ive looked on SBD's website and found there countersinking intructions. To View these in full (including diagrams) go to - http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Main.htm then navigate to the following - "instruction sheets" at the bottem of the page, then under "rod bolts" are the instructions called "NEW RB1 Proceedure" :thumbs: SBD ROD BOLTS – 1.3L, 1.4L, 1.6L & 2.0L Assembly Procedure as of 04/2002 The instructions on both pages must be used Big end cap must be countersunk by 1mm and must be deburred. This is done because the H/D rod bolt has a radius under the head and countersinking the hole stops the cap cutting into the bolt. This must be done on a pillar drill turning the drill by hand only, as this prevents possible chattering of the cap. The cap must be clamped in a vice, but do not clamp the vice down, because the countersink bit has to centralise onto the big end cap hole. When assembling the bolts, as of 2002, the manufacturers recommend only using ARP assembly lubricant as supplied, under the heads and on the threads and torque up to: - RB1/RB1K (9mm x 1.25mm) 2.0L 8v & 16v - 31lbft RB2/RB2K (8mm x 1.25mm) 1.4/1.6L - - 24lbft RB2K-F (8mm x 1.00mm) 1.3L - - - 26lbft NOTE: - These are lower torque settings than would have been used with normal oil. We cannot be held responsible for rod bolt stretch when an uncalibrated torque wrench has been used. THE FOLLOWING NOTES ARE IMPORTANT. ALWAYS wash the fasteners with cleaning solvent prior to installation. They come coated with a “protective” coating, this is NOT a lubricant. Choose correct torque from the list. The method to follow for applying lubricant: 1. Coat the fastener with lubricant as evenly as possible. 2. Pull up the fastener so that it is ‘snug’. 3. Do this three times, on the third time torque to the recommended torque setting. The above method no doubt seems strange, but does ensure no metal to metal contact that increases friction between the threads. The torque figures shown will give a preload equal to 75% of the yield strength of the fastener. Use a generous chamfer on all stud holes (1mm). Do not use lock tabs. They are made from too soft a material and as it squeeze3s out the fastener preload is lost. Due to leverage differences a fine thread will produce a greater preload for a given torque than will a coarse thread of the same diameter. For all connecting rods check that the chamfer required to clear the bolt under head radius is adequate – this if VERY important. [Edited on 21-07-2009 by Ste W]