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[quote][i]Originally posted by DaveyLC[/i]
This is mainly for 16v vehicles WITHOUT power steering, but should apply to 8v models too.

1. Jack up the front end and support the car on axel stands.

2. Remove the front wheels.

3. Disconnect the steering track rod ends from the hub on both sides by un-doing the nut on the underside of the of the hub arm and then by knocking the bolt upwards using a mallet. You can use a ball joint seperator tool to prevent damaging the thread if you want to re-use the track-rod ends but I'd suggest replacing them.

4. Remove the 13mm gear linkage bolt to release the gear linkage and pull the selector shaft from the linkage (this must be done to allow the engine to tilt forward without bending the gear linkage).

5. Using a jack and a piece of wood under the sump (to spread the load) slightly lift the engine to release the load on the front engine mounts.

6. Use a 15mm socket to remove the four engine mount bolts (the ones that go into the mounting rubbers, there are 2 on each side).

7. Lower the jack slowly and you'll notice the engine tilts forwards; allow the engine to drop until it is about to touch the cooling fan. Make sure to keep an eye on any pipes are wires that might get stretched or damaged! The exhaust system should have enough slack on the rubbers to move back under the car.

8. From underneath the car you will be able to see the steering rack mounting bracket, it is held to the bulk head by four nuts on studs. Remove the nuts to release the bracket and then remove the bracket by sliding it away from the bulk head. (Note: On earlier cars with a mechanical speedo there is a little bracket for the speedo cable mounted on the upper drivers side stud, if this is the case you will need to remove BOTH nuts from this stud.)

9. Remove the battery and battery tray (13mm bolts) and you may need to remove the coolant tank depending on the space available.

11. Under the dash board release the lower steering column universal joint (13mm nut) and remove the locking pin. Once the pin has been slid out the steering column joint should just fall away from the steering rack input shaft.

10. Now the there should be enough room to pull the rack away from the bulk head until the input shaft is free. Then remove the rubber gaitor and pull the rack towards the driver side as far as it will go (until the input shaft is touching the drivers side inner wing), once it is right over to the drives side you can pull the passenger side of the rack upwards and then draw the rack up and out of the engine bay.

And that should be it!

Obviously refitting is just above reversed and you will need to find someone to sit in the car and help you setup your gearlinkage, always best to find 5th and work from there :)

[Edited on 26-10-2008 by DaveyLC] [/quote]

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DaveyLC	posted on 26th Oct 08 at 18:44
DaveyLC	This is mainly for 16v vehicles WITHOUT power steering, but should apply to 8v models too. 1. Jack up the front end and support the car on axel stands. 2. Remove the front wheels. 3. Disconnect the steering track rod ends from the hub on both sides by un-doing the nut on the underside of the of the hub arm and then by knocking the bolt upwards using a mallet. You can use a ball joint seperator tool to prevent damaging the thread if you want to re-use the track-rod ends but I'd suggest replacing them. 4. Remove the 13mm gear linkage bolt to release the gear linkage and pull the selector shaft from the linkage (this must be done to allow the engine to tilt forward without bending the gear linkage). 5. Using a jack and a piece of wood under the sump (to spread the load) slightly lift the engine to release the load on the front engine mounts. 6. Use a 15mm socket to remove the four engine mount bolts (the ones that go into the mounting rubbers, there are 2 on each side). 7. Lower the jack slowly and you'll notice the engine tilts forwards; allow the engine to drop until it is about to touch the cooling fan. Make sure to keep an eye on any pipes are wires that might get stretched or damaged! The exhaust system should have enough slack on the rubbers to move back under the car. 8. From underneath the car you will be able to see the steering rack mounting bracket, it is held to the bulk head by four nuts on studs. Remove the nuts to release the bracket and then remove the bracket by sliding it away from the bulk head. (Note: On earlier cars with a mechanical speedo there is a little bracket for the speedo cable mounted on the upper drivers side stud, if this is the case you will need to remove BOTH nuts from this stud.) 9. Remove the battery and battery tray (13mm bolts) and you may need to remove the coolant tank depending on the space available. 11. Under the dash board release the lower steering column universal joint (13mm nut) and remove the locking pin. Once the pin has been slid out the steering column joint should just fall away from the steering rack input shaft. 10. Now the there should be enough room to pull the rack away from the bulk head until the input shaft is free. Then remove the rubber gaitor and pull the rack towards the driver side as far as it will go (until the input shaft is touching the drivers side inner wing), once it is right over to the drives side you can pull the passenger side of the rack upwards and then draw the rack up and out of the engine bay. And that should be it! Obviously refitting is just above reversed and you will need to find someone to sit in the car and help you setup your gearlinkage, always best to find 5th and work from there :) [Edited on 26-10-2008 by DaveyLC]