fixed it...

but one strange thing is the drivers motor works when i unlock, before the plunger just went down and the motor would not push it up...that was on normal CL, but now both work perfect. :)

so as Austin says, if your central locking works fine without the RCL attached (try it), then its the RCL unit. Make sure your RCL unit has 12v supply, grounded, also mine had a switch on for HI or LOW thing and other section for earth swithed or live switched locking, could be this??

then it seems as though your RCL unit is faulty.

yup to the brown and white wire connection on Cl to RCL. the Wh and Br leads are on the CL wiring loom, and then i spliced the RCL ones onto it.

the RCL fuse is the 1 blowing.

Its the RCL box that is blowin? It prob wont work without the negative lead, but if its blowin its fuse the RCL box probably has a fault, youve connected the brown and white wires from the CL relay to it have u?

just checked it and it all seems corect! could it be that the CL relay is connected to the batt. and the Remote CL control box is too... both have negatives and live wires, should i leave the RCL box's neg. lead off?

hmmm...better check it all out
i tested it on a socket supply and worked fine

mate 15 amp should not be blowing, youve got a problem there buddy. Make sure nothing is shorting, and that all connections are insulated.

My Euroline kit is on a 5 amp fuse and it hasnt blown once, it was initially connected directly to the battery before i found a permanent live in the car, but it was like that for over a month.

sorry..it was a 15 a fuse that blew! whoa...lol...erm.

is it a mistake connecting it to the battery direct? the CL control box is fine on it...thats fuse is intact.

but it blew at 5 amp...connected to the batt. ?!?

I think it should be 5Amp

ttt

what fuse rating is meant to go on the remote central locking unit part?

i had a blue one in mine (10a?) but it blew...what should i replace it with? dont wann blow the whole unit tho!