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Generation

posted on 21st Jul 15 at 23:18

quote:
Originally posted by Jed D
quote:
Originally posted by Generation
Exactly as Jed said, I even did same with the switch


thats about as in depth as i get with wires tbh haha not my forte, but once you've done that once its easy


Same, I get mates to do wiring stuff, just don't understand it


*CorsaCal*

posted on 19th Jul 15 at 21:31

Yes i disconnected the battery each time. Same fault. Im pretty sure the mafs i substituted on were no good tho upon closer inspection. Today the car has ran fine but eml has flashed on 3 times during the day. Its so random how it happens.


Jed D

posted on 19th Jul 15 at 13:47

quote:
Originally posted by Generation
Exactly as Jed said, I even did same with the switch


thats about as in depth as i get with wires tbh haha not my forte, but once you've done that once its easy


Richie

posted on 19th Jul 15 at 02:01

Did you pull the battery after switching the MAF to clear the ECU down and read the codes again?


*CorsaCal*

posted on 18th Jul 15 at 14:49

Ah thank you mate! ok ill have a look for a brown/white wire for the diagnostic socket. Update on the fault: i substited the maf which made no difference however i found a broken wire to the air temp sensor (i think it is). Ive now repaired that wire but the fault is still apparent. In fact its much worse now. I think its over fuelling cuz when i rev it with the fault happening i get black smoke from the exhaust n a strong fuely smell. Im pretty stumped with it now.


Richie

posted on 18th Jul 15 at 11:13

Btw was looking into why the ECU connector for you isn't working.

Apparently there are two wires for all of them for you to get mixed up with. So if you found another brown/yellow and that works (because that's the one you are shorting to earth to get the light to flash the code readout) - then chances are you have another brown/white which you will need to switch :)


*CorsaCal*

posted on 17th Jul 15 at 20:50

Cheers mate. I havent replaced the maf yet but i can confirm that with the engine running the other 2 faults arent active so its gotta be the maf. I tried a snap on modis n it wont comunicate so have ordered a switch to do the switch trick u guys have. Ill let u know if the maf improves matters. Cheers again.


Richie

posted on 16th Jul 15 at 15:08

Good luck! Report back and let us know how you got on.


*CorsaCal*

posted on 16th Jul 15 at 06:45

Ok cool. Cheers lads. I have found 2 spare maf sensors so ill clear the codes n substitute the maf to see what happens. Cheers again :thumbs:


Richie

posted on 15th Jul 15 at 23:08

Now that you have a working port then a Tech1 will work (pre 1997, tech2 was for post 1997)

But like I said if you disconnect the negative battery terminal for a short while it clears the codes from the ECU. If the codes come straight back then the faults are definitely still apparent.

As said above crank sensor and hall effect can throw you off if you arent used to this. So basically short the pins - start the engine straight away and you will get an accurate code reading (without the crank/potentially hall codes)


*CorsaCal*

posted on 15th Jul 15 at 17:38

Cheers lads! ill have to give the switch mod a go. Is there any way to clear the faults like this or does it need a code reader? Did either of u ever manage to get a code reader to work on ur cars?


Generation

posted on 15th Jul 15 at 15:38

Exactly as Jed said, I even did same with the switch


Jed D

posted on 15th Jul 15 at 10:02

iirc crank sensor would come up as a fault anyway as its not reading a pulse from the crank when just the ignition is on and engines off, could be wrong though

i attached a toggle switch in on my v6 (same wiring as xe tbf) and earthed out the brown/yellow so that i can flash fault codes as and when


*CorsaCal*

posted on 15th Jul 15 at 06:48

Ive got the numbers written down a home but the sensors where MAF, hall efect sensor and crank sensor. The car still isnt running quite right but i think MAF is the most likely even tho thats only a year old. I was just wanting to clear em out and then see which comes back cuz the faults stored could be ages old.

Cheers :thumbs:


Richie

posted on 15th Jul 15 at 01:10

On Bosch Motronic systems you literally just disconnect the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes. But if the fault condition still exists when you start the car again - it will instantly flag.

What are the 3 codes you had?


*CorsaCal*

posted on 14th Jul 15 at 20:24

Cool. Thats helpfull but doesnt mention clearing the codes. I have 3 codes in it and want to clear em an start again. Any idea if thats possible?


Richie

posted on 13th Jul 15 at 19:32

There are code readers but they are super flaky and usually serial

To be honest if you can now do the paperclip test you should reliably be able to pull of codes using that.

http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm

Shows you how to interpret them, then this chart applies for the C20XE

http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm#bosch

[Edited on 13-07-2015 by Richie]


*CorsaCal*

posted on 13th Jul 15 at 18:35

I have just found that there was another brown/yellow wire in the loom. I have now cut the one already joined and joined this on instead. All apears to be the same except i can now do the paperclip test as mentioned in the tuturials of this site. It appears that my car is a 16 pin plug but contains ALDL codes. Does anyone know if such thing as an ALDL code reader exists. Cheers :thumbs:


*CorsaCal*

posted on 13th Jul 15 at 17:07

Thanks richie. The wires look to be connected in a black plug that looks ok. I have worked out what wires i have at which pin and im wondering if anyone knows if these are correct. Pics:




Richie

posted on 13th Jul 15 at 10:40

The power to the diagnostic port doesn't get interfered with as part of the conversion - whoever did it probably hasn't hooked up the TX/RX ECU link wires.

If I remember right all the diagnostic wires matched on the ECU and car color wise - was just a case of joining them at the plug cut.

Brown/Blue - ECU light

Brown/White - Diagnostics

Brown/Yellow - Diagnostics


*CorsaCal*

posted on 11th Jul 15 at 22:09

Hi guys.

I am having problems with my 20xe corsa b. When the fault occurs the EML illuminates and so fault codes will be stored however i cant read em. The diagnostic socket is wired in and when i connect a tester the tester powers up so there must be a feed and earth at the plug but i have now tried several different testers including tech2 and nothing will communicate with it. Im thinking there is a wite missing or in the wrong pin. I appreciate most the c20xe converting people prob dont frequent here as much as they used to but im wondering if anyone has a plug layout that shows what wires should go to which pins?

Any help would be greatly apreciated :thumbs:

Cheers.