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pro8186

posted on 14th Sep 14 at 17:18

Just set it alight, that will sort ya problem lol


Andycs

posted on 14th Sep 14 at 16:06

Na only when you first start it but that's the sai. It doesn't run to bad when it does run. It always starts first time the next day. The backfires are loud and the neighbours are getting a bit annoyed now.


pro8186

posted on 14th Sep 14 at 15:31

There's 1 on ebay atm, based in lancashire. He's willing to post or if your close collect.


pro8186

posted on 14th Sep 14 at 15:29

Trust me mate, change your coil pack. I had same problem, changed it last night and its running sweet as a nut now. Is u car running 'lumpy" at idle aswell. Mine was !!


Andycs

posted on 14th Sep 14 at 15:16

I'm getting 12v at one of the terminals on the coil pack,when cranking the coil pack goes down to about 9.6v. I'm thinking its coil pack. But Is there anything else that could cause coil pack not to fire.


pro8186

posted on 14th Sep 14 at 13:42

quote:
Originally posted by Andycs
Ive changed the map and coolant temprature sensor, its still cutting out grrrrrrrrrr.
When it wont start there is no spark.
What can cause intermittent spark on these engines.
This car is doing my head in.


Had same problem, change your coil pack asap...


Andycs

posted on 13th Sep 14 at 14:12

Ive changed the map and coolant temprature sensor, its still cutting out grrrrrrrrrr.
When it wont start there is no spark.
What can cause intermittent spark on these engines.
This car is doing my head in.


Andycs

posted on 9th Sep 14 at 21:08

I've put the battery on charge. The map sensor did have quite a large hose on it, I've changed it for a smaller diameter one. The opcom shows 1.01 bar and 4.79v with the engine off. Should this actually read 5v. Is there a way to test the map sensor.


VegasPhil

posted on 9th Sep 14 at 18:20

MAP Sensor?

Green plug by the header tank. Check that out.

[Edited on 09-09-2014 by VegasPhil]


Andycs

posted on 9th Sep 14 at 13:15

Started putting my decat system on yesterday. The back box was full of crap and the cat had fallen to bits and was hollow

[Edited on 10-09-2014 by Andycs]


Andycs

posted on 9th Sep 14 at 00:26

I checked the spark plugs today there all carbond up i then did a compression test which gave me
1 195
2 205
3 200
4 205
Ive also noticed the cambelt tensioner is loose (pointing towards the water pump).
Its still cutting out :/


mattievRS

posted on 31st Aug 14 at 17:26

Yeah it does look ok around the key way.


Andycs

posted on 31st Aug 14 at 12:33

Yes it does have the toothed ring around the pulley. I changed the crank sensor already though.
This pulley looks alright to.




Heres my live op-com data aswell showing when the engine cuts out.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing


flame

posted on 29th Aug 14 at 19:27

Forgot about the crank sensor- good call


mattievRS

posted on 28th Aug 14 at 18:10

quote:
Originally posted by flame
I don't think that would make a difference because the pulley that goes on the top is a v belt one that drives the alternator and power steering pump.


Does it not have a toothed ring around it that gives the crank sensor the fuelling and spark signal?

Like here
http://static.webshopapp.com/shops/011230/files/002862942/pulley-crankshaft-c14sel-x14xe-c16sel-c16xe-x16xe.jpg

Slipping on the key way would give his symptoms wouldn't it?

[Edited on 28-08-2014 by mattievRS]


flame

posted on 27th Aug 14 at 21:15

I don't think that would make a difference because the pulley that goes on the top is a v belt one that drives the alternator and power steering pump.


mattievRS

posted on 27th Aug 14 at 17:52

What about the pulley that sits onto this?


Andycs

posted on 23rd Aug 14 at 23:43

Checked the pulley, seems ok.


Andycs

posted on 20th Aug 14 at 23:12

No I havnt I'm thinking it might be the woodruff key and or the crank pulley. I've got the arch liner off, airbox and the cam cover. What else needs to come off for inspection. Is it now just a case of undoing the crank bolt and loosening the alternator.


mattievRS

posted on 15th Aug 14 at 11:01

Have you checked the key way on the crank pulley to make sure it's not slipped and enlarged?


flame

posted on 8th Aug 14 at 22:48

Sounds like coolant temp sensor to me, one died on me before and the symptoms were similar- backfiring, loss of power, difficult to start, non responsive throttle pedal etc. changed the sensor over and that fixed it.


Andycs

posted on 7th Aug 14 at 03:54

Anyway anyone able to help with advise on the car.


IvIarkgraham

posted on 6th Aug 14 at 22:33

bought


Andycs

posted on 6th Aug 14 at 20:39

I bought a 1999 Corsa sport 1.6 a couple of week’s back that was intermittently cutting out. The guy I got it from had brought it with the problem but couldn’t sort the fault, he said he had changed egr valve, plugs, coil pack and fuel pump.
On the journey home I had gone about 8 miles before it started playing up. Whilst travelling up a hill it lost power as it came to a stop there was a loud back fire. I tried turning it over and it wouldn’t start, I waited 2 minutes with the ignition off and tried again, it fired straight up. I put the heaters on and took it easy not going over 4000rpm for the next 15 miles of the journey home.

Once I got it home I did a paper clip test which had 0110 intake air temperature sensor logged. I couldn’t clear the fault code so brought an op-com. I now have no fault codes but its still cutting out all the time. I’ve taken some live data but my laptop battery only lasts 5-10 minutes and I cant read the data ive collected.

The engine was quite noisy so I did an oil change and flush, the engine is a bit quieter.
I thought id change the crank sensor as it seems a common fault on these engines or Vauxhalls in general. Ive also taken the top half of the inlet manifold off and cleaned it out as well as the throttle body.
The water temperature does seem to go high. The temperature gauge has been about 95' plus when it’s cut out, ive noticed the last couple of times it’s restarted the temperature has been 90'.
It’s also cut out whilst on the drive waiting for it to warm up before a test drive. Sometimes it will restart a couple of minutes after its cut out and other times im having to wait 10-15 minutes.
The engine stinks when its running, the exhaust has a couple of leaks in it which I don’t think help.
Checked the fuel filter on bottom of the pump and cleaned it out, the fuel filter looks new and is fitted the correct way around.
A lot of the time the car will back fire when starting or cutting out. If I put my foot on the accelerator when trying to start it will sometimes start and the rpm takes a few seconds to rise, if I take my foot of the pedal the engine dies. Ive tried bumping the car when it’s cut out on a hill, it was running but low rpm and no power.

Im getting a bit stuck on what to do next without chucking loads of new parts at it until I find what’s causing the problem, ive been searching for the last couple of weeks what the problem could be.


[Edited on 07-08-2014 by Andycs]