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byrnie_2004

posted on 17th Apr 08 at 19:30

what are the standard rear speakers in a Corsa C? spec? make?


Dom

posted on 27th Dec 06 at 19:13

This needs a bit of an update, if anyone fancies going for it! :lol:

danny - the original speakers in the front of a corsa B had there own rings mounted to the speakers, so you have to use aftermarket rings - but there are different sizes (from memory) 10cm and 17cm (plus i think there are a few others).

When fitting 3rd party front speakers the door pod (at the bottom) never did fit propperly, but i've found sanding the vertical struts on the speaker grill created enough clearence and they fitted fine.

And for what speakers to go for, it all depends on your budget and how much you can afford to spend on a pair - component-wise, a set of 17cm(6.5") infinity's are a good place to start off with. Certainly aren't brilliant, but there alright for the £100 price tag.

trixta - i've found 1.5m sq. was enough to cover each side and gave a little bit more to do around the mounting rings. But again, the more you get the better off you are as you can go 2+ layers up on certain areas etc

:thumbs:


dannymccann

posted on 11th Aug 06 at 11:35

whats the biggest front door speaker for a Corsa B without adaptor rings? are these speakers 'good' ie worth it or would be it be better to get bigger speakers, as in my old Corsa the drivers door card never went back on perfectly?


trixta

posted on 12th Jun 06 at 19:42

how much sound proofing will i need to cover both fornt doors of my C?


corb

posted on 9th Nov 04 at 19:35

rears are 10cm iirc. were bloody small. richie i need a chat on msn sometime soon please mate, cheers.


Richie

posted on 1st Nov 04 at 09:45

well done batman, topped :)


Dom

Icon depicting mood of post posted on 31st Oct 04 at 22:48

To save people posting the same sort of questions, i have come up with a basic FAQ for both the Corsa B and C, which will hopefully grow over time :)

+ What size speakers fit in the front doors?
B - Size: Up to 17cm(6.5") using Autolead adaptors Mounting Depth : Around 64mm

C - Size :Up to 17cm(6.5") using Autolead adaptors (SAK-3001). Mounting Depth : *unknown*


+ What size speakers fit in the rear of the car?
B - Size : 10cm

C - Size : 13.3cm(5.25")


+ What if the mounting depth of my speakers for the front doors are more that the above stated values?
Both B and C - It is then most likely that either the magnets won't fit through the allocated door holes and/or the speakers magnet will be in the way of the windows track (window will not fully wind down). If you wish to continue using the speakers then the only solution is to either buy/build a door pod to house the speakers.


I have two (or more speakers) rated at Xohms. Whats the best configuration for my amp?
Both B and C - Please consult this webpage for more information of speaker/sub configuratons.


+ Wheres the best place for grounding amps?
Both B and C - Spare wheel well (use a grounding terminal) / passenger rear light access panel (factory earthy point) or seat-belt bolts.


+ Wheres the best place to feed the power cable for the amps?
Both B and C – Easiest place is to feed the power cable from the battery and through the grommet behind the glovebox. Then feed the power cable down the passengers door sill.


+ Where’s the best place for the inline fuse?
Both B and C – The mainly inline fuse for the power feed for the amps should be as close to the battery as possible, but at least within 45cm(18”) from the battery.


+ What rated fuse should the inline fuse be?
Both B and C – The inline fuse rating should be equal to/or be as close to the total rating of the equipment on your power cable eg: If one amp had a total of 30amps from its fuse and the other amp had a total of 60 amps from its fuses (has a 40amp fuse and a 20amp fuse) then the inline fuse rating should be 90amps.


+ Roughly how long should the power cable/remote lead/RCA be?
Both B and C - You should have atleast a minimum of 5m of cable to reach from one end to the other. However, different cable routes may require more or less.


+ My headunit only offers one set of preouts, what can i do?
Both B and C - the easiest ,and by far cheapest, solution is to by a set of Y-splitter cables, and split the preout from your headunit as required. However, if one (or more) of your amp(s) offer a RCA output, then you can dasiy chain from that amp into another. The most professional way of doing this is to buy a Line Driver, which will split the preout into a number of specific outputs.


+ Is it safe to use a Y-Splitter if i only have 1 preout from my Headunit?
Both B and C - Yes, its is perfectly safe to use a y-splitter, even though there is a myth that in doing so you half the preout voltage. The only thing a Y-splitter effects is the source (headunit/line driver) as it causes the source to see a different load. However, its very unlikely you will noitce any audiable difference in sound quality using a Y-Splitter.


+ What size MDF is best?
Both B and C – For sub boxes it is recommended that you use no less than 18mm(0.7”) MDF panels. It is then advised that you use 12mm (0.5”) MDF or less for the rest of the install for flexibility and weight saving.


+ Does my Alpine 4x60w Headunit need a direct power feed?
Both B and C – If you are using the internal mosfet amps, then it is advised that you connect the headunits positive feed directly to the batteries positive terminal using 12-14 gauge cable, with a inline fuse rated MAX. 20A. Again, like wiring an amp, the ground should also be wired to the car chassis using the same gauge wire. More info can be found >> HERE <<


+ My headunit seems to loose its memory?
Both B and C – The usual solution for this is to swap the Yellow and Red connections, or buy an autoleads wiring adaptor.


+ My car headlights (and/or interior lights) seem to dim with my music?
Both B and C – The reason for dimming of lights, is due to the lack of power the cars battery can supply. The easiest solution is to upgrade the battery. If this fails, or doesnt correct the problem perfectly then upgrading the wiring (0 gauge) between the cars battery ground and the chassis, as well as the wiring (4 or 0 gauge) between the cars alternator and battery. Also upgrading the cars alternator to a higher rating, ie:100Ah+ and/or choosing a "split charge" system (two batteries in your car - 1 for the car, 1 for the ICE install) will also help.


+ What RMS rated amp should i buy?
Both B and C - it is always said that you should buy an amp that is slighly more powerful (in terms of RMS rating) that the speakers can handle, as this reduces the amount of distortion the amp causes when be 'maxed' out. However, remember to reduce your gain(s) on the amp (after you have properly set them up - >> ROUGH GUIDE HERE <<).


Hope this helps people :)

p.s - i will add more as soon as i can think of more, however feel free to u2u info and/or corrections and i will edit it ASAP :)

[Edited on 16-12-2004 by Dom]

[Edited on 20-07-2005 by Dom]